Golf IV R32 :: Air Suspension Compressed Lines Melting
May 24, 2012
I just installed my air ride and te lines from my compressors are melting at the connection to he other line so my compressors are not kicking on when they need to, why is this happening? I can touch my air ride now because it's low on air.
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I bought my 2012 RX 350 April 2012. I noticed that the rear mirror had like melting or warp look. Then the side door panel and in back -wing of car (spooler?) had some ripples lines. I went to dealer first they said they would order parts for mirror and side panel (this was fix awhile back sept). but the have to get factory inspector to come out and inspect car for the spooler part.
I dropped my car off because the manager says he needs to look car himself before determining anything. He told me he thinks I parked my car near high efficiency windows and had reflected and caused the melting or warp or ripple on my car.
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The front passenger side is making a quack-like noise when the suspension is compressed. it only happens after the suspension has had some time to warm up, but once it does, i am able to push down on the passenger side fender and hear it, in addition to hearing it over bumps, etc.
I just had the tie rod end replaced on that side, and that was well after noticing the noise (but not intended as a fix for the noise). when i press on the suspension myself, it seems the sound is coming from an area closer to the firewall than the strut tower. i'd say the sound is pretty audible inside the cabin.
What it could be? lca bushings? subframe?
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On my MKIV Jetta the wire going to S177 is getting super hot an melting my fuse box, an I am talking from the time I start my car to pop my hood the fuse box cover will burn your hand. I used a voltage meter an it reads 14v but the wire running from the fuse box to the alt gets super hot, an it only gets hot on the side of the fuse box. Could it be a bad alt?
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Is there a good way to bend brake lines without a bender? I have two brake lines to bend that are probably no longer then 3 feet and don't want to buy a bender.
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I am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
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Why the brake lines have 2 or 3 coils in them near the master cylinder? Makes it a real pain to work on anything down in that area. Always snags ratchets and stuff...
My brother and I were discussing it the other nite, and the conclusion we came up with was, the first guy ever who was installing a brake system had tubing that was a couple feet too long, and couldn't find a tubing cutter, so he coiled them up.
Then the next guy saw that and figured "hmm, so THAT'S how it's done", and so on... Kinda like the story about the lady who always cut off both ends of her ham before she put it in the broiler..
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I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
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I just completed a front brake job on a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, installing new rotors and pads. Right front rotor and pad installation went perfectly. Left front - I heard a faint "hiss" as I compressed the caliper piston using a c clamp. In addition, as I placed the new inner pad against the caliper/piston, I noticed that the piston had become slightly "uncompressed," meaning it moved back out a little bit on its own. I compressed it again with a c clamp and had to rush to get the caliper back in place with the new pads in place before the piston SLOWLY worked itself back out and I wouldn't be able to fit the caliper around the new rotors and pads. I completed the brake job, pumped the brakes, and took it for a ride - all seems fine. The pedal is not spongy and it does not travel all the way to the floor.
Do I have anything to worry about? This is my 6th brake job in total. This is my first brake job on this vehicle. The slight hiss and the fact that the caliper piston did not stay seated after I compressed it bothers me.
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Have these installed? The rear lines are not wanting to stay in the OEM securing clips? Used search already as I though I read about this issue before but couldn't find anything.
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I am a little skeptical of this, but someone told me that since I got water in the gas tank of my 2003 F250 I should blow compressed air into the schrader valve on the fuel rails to eject it all into a bucket under the disconnected fuel filter.
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Top and bottom left. Where the 2 vac lines on the rear diff/haldex unit goes?
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Basically I want to replace all my boost/vac lines with silicone. I have a 01 jetta 1.8t with aww engine code. I need to know the diameter and length of each.
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Did I just blow up my turbo or what? I'm kinda new to diesels, I just purchaced a 2005 F-250. Today I was pulling my rv out of Devils Den State Park in Arkansas, beautiful place. There is a steep grade coming out, my truck was seeming to be having a kind of hard time, then a loud PFFTTTT sound. That is the best I can do for writing sounds. It sounded like a compressed gas cylinder blowing up! The pulling power went to nothing and the turbo gauge went to 0. It sounded fine at idle, other gauges were fine. I'm guessing my turbo is DEAD, what say you?
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One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
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Yesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
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It seems when the roads are wet, snow melting, when I turn off engine and get back in, it won't start....usually have to wait at least a half hour before it will start....what would be getting wet?
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Why is My Dashboard Melting?
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I was washing my car and noticed that my tail lights are melting on both sides. Brought it to the dealership and they told me that they would cover it, but the service manager and foreman wasn't there.
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The window seals (black rubber at the bottom of each window) on my '07 Prius are melting. They're leaving melted black "goo" on my windows when I roll them down and back up. One of them actually deteriorated all the way and fell off. Granted, I live in AZ and it's been hotter than a Texas whore's crotch on dollar night, but I've lived here all my life and I've never seen anything like this. I'll post a photo when I get a minute. (by the way - my profile says '08 but my ex-snagged that and I've got an '07 now).
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I installed rvc couple of months ago. When I put in reverse, only shows straight yellow lines on screen. Is there any way to activate to lines turn with steering wheel (like cars with parking sensors)? I was wondering if there is Vag_com trick available for this option.
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