I did wheel balance and alignment on my car and it still drives rough at around 105 km 110 and the mechanic said my rear left shaft needs to be replaced. I feel it in the floors like the car shaking a little about around that km.
View 3 RepliesI had a balancing problem with some tires I bought with the car. At about 80 they shook and hard enough to not want to drive at that speed. I replaced them with Falken tires and it was so much better, but......
At 75-82 mph I still have a shake in the steering wheel. I bought the tires from Discount and they claim the rim is bent and they cannot completely balance the tire. I am going back once more to get a definitive response.
I am at a loss at what to do next. My other Lexus was smooth at any speed, even at 90. Smooth. 2007 Lexus es350
I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles. When braking hard, the pedal vibrates and the brake performance was not that good. So I had the mechanic replace the front calipers (L&R), both brake pads on front, and rear drums.
After that, when braking, the pedal vibrates...but not that much. So I had the mechanic replace the front rotors (L&R). Now, when braking, the performance is good and it does not vibrate.
However, if I brake really hard...there is a little bit of pedal vibration AND shaking steering wheel. My car also needs an alignment since it pulls to the left (will get one on Friday).
Do you think the shaking steering wheel and the slight pedal vibration is due to the alignment or maybe the rear rotors need to be replaced? When traveling at 70mpg, sometimes the steering wheel slightly (very slightly) shakes....my guess this the tires need to be balance/alignment.
I purchased the truck used last summer and this is the second time I've put it in 4wd. The first time was over the summer, and I had a hard time getting it into 4wd, and it made a "clunk" sound initially but drove fine, then went back into 2wd just fine and had driven fine ever since. Today I put it into 4wd, no clunk or any other noises, very smooth, but it drove very rough, almost as if the wheels were out of sync or something. It seemed almost like the wheels were breaking on and off on their own, very weird. When I put it back into 2wd, it did that for a few seconds until it went away. I only drove it in 4wd in my parking garage as I didn't want to risk any more damage to it on the road.
View 14 RepliesI have a shake at 60-78 mph. Have had the tires balanced three times, last balance is beter. I'm thinking of switching the wheels from my 05 F250 to the 03 Excursion to verify a tire problem. Will the factory F250 17" wheels fit for the test? Both are 4x4 vehicles. The truck rides smooth.
View 5 RepliesHaving, apparently not uncommon problem of a misaligned steering wheel -- i.e., when the wheel is horizontal, the car drives left? Two dealers have told me that there is no alignment problem (and have given me the BS "crown of the road" explanation). Perhaps this is not an alignment issue, but there's no question that the wheel must be slightly turned to get the car to drive straight, which is at best a major annoyance.
View 5 Replies2nd time for alignment in two weeks. My numbers were WAY different than when I left. Rear toe is out, it was out when I left the first time, but it's out in the opposite direction now. Are those four bolts stretch bolts? Maybe my bushings are shot which are causing the varied numbers??
View 3 RepliesAnd I have coil overs, I'm not super low but pretty low and every time I get my alignment done they say they can't so anything about the rear having so much negative camber. And it is really eating up the inside sidewalls of my tires like crazy.
View 5 RepliesMy mkiv gti leans a lot to the right whenever I let off the steering wheel. I brought it to a shop and they put it up on a lift and told me that I needed a tie rod flip kit because it's lowered. Long story short, they charged me $70 to look at it for 10 minutes. Do you really need a flip kit for a car lowered on coilovers? I have several friends with lowered cars and none off them have had to do this. I'm thinking it's something else such as a bad shock but I'm no expert.
View 14 RepliesI just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
Took delivery of car and alignment is way off. Steering wheel is turned left when car is straight. The dealership is trying to charger me for a alignment. Car has 2500 miles on it and came from factory this way.
View 8 RepliesI need to replace a cv joint on my mk4 golf and was wondering if I will need to get a front end wheel alignment done once I have completed the job...
View 3 RepliesI bought my Passat 2.5 V6 TDI a few months ago, 3rd day i owned it a lorry hit the back end, its all fixed and looking great now.. but last week it developed wobbly steering, feels like a wheel is out of balance but only when coasting or off the power (engine breaking), and intermittent, i cant pin it down to one speed/range/road or anything.
I've checked tyre pressure and made sure the wheels are all on, jacked up the front end one side at a time but couldn't find any play in the track rod ends, i did notice the complexity of the legs on the front and that worries me a bit.
Wheel Balance 18" Wheels with there T-Reg? I have a slight shimmy @ around 68-75. Had it balanced twice with no luck. The dealer doesn't have a good Hunter Road Force Machine? Other than that love the T-Reg.
View 1 RepliesSo, I've been noticing a lot of road noise lately. I am chocking it up to a wheel out of balance. What would be some symptoms of a wheel out of balance? I was thinking slight vibration, wah-wah-wah noise that gets louder with speed? I have a very, very slight vibration, little to no feel in the steering wheel, but that incessant, annoying noise from 20mph +. When I bought the car just over a year ago, the dealership put some cheap new tires on it. Continentals, I think? I know that the weather could have something to do with the tires being loud, but not this much. I don't think it could be a transmission problem because the noise persists when I take it out of gear.
View 10 RepliesI took my parents 2006 Honda Odyssey with less than 50k miles to the local Sears to have the tires balanced since the steering wheel was vibrating at highway speeds (65 -75mph). The car sounded fine when we dropped it off, however, when we picked up the car I noticed that starting from about 5 mph on up, there was a loud noise that initially sounded like something was stuck to the contact patch of the tire. The frequency and decibel level of the noise would increase in sync with the car speed up to about 60 - 65 mph. Then, either the noise would fade or the wind noise would drown it out. I'm not sure which. We took it back to Sears to show them.
Checked tires and nothing was on the contact patch of the tires. They claim that it was a coincidence that the wheels started making noises immediately after they finished working on it. They said that it is probably bad wheel hub bearings. Is it possible that this was just a coincidence? Why would the bearing not make any noises before the wheels were balanced? Is it possible that balancing the tires messed up the drive train (and it not be the mechanics fault)? Or did they simply mess up/sabotage the wheel and are not fessing up to it?
I have a new car now, 2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G, got it at 88k and it now has 167k. Nearly no problems other than routine maintenance, but here I am with an issue I can't seem to figure out.
A few weeks ago, I blew a tire on the highway, ended up getting 2 new tires put on the front and moved the fronts to the back. Tires were then rebalanced and the alignment straightened out.
The guys at the shop said the front tie end rod needed replaced, but I'm pretty sure they were trying to make extra money off a new customer because my bill was going from tires/alignment to tires/alignment, bearings, tie end rods, and speed sensors.
Now, on to my issue. When I'm driving on the interstate, I notice a humming sound that seems to come from the front passenger wheel between 68-80mph. Soon as I go over 80 or under 68, it's gone. I noticed that the noise lessened when I veered to the right, so I assumed it was the bearing.
Took the car to my usual shop, had the bearings checked, got the front driver bearing replaced under warranty. Mechanic said the passenger bearing seemed fine. Got it on the highway again today, noise is still there.
3.8SuperPacer
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G with Ram Air
1998 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniversary Daytona 500 Pace Car Edition
I think I need to have them done some where else. but around 65-70mph my wheels shakes. even after alignment!!!
View 3 RepliesI just noticed today that when I let of the gas my steering wheel will shake a little bit and when I let off the brake after I come to a stop light my steering wheel would shake. Why the could be happening. Could it be from a bad axle, alignment, something wrong with the brakes, bent wheel, balancing, or something.
View 3 RepliesI have had the O.Z.s balanced about # more times since. The front end is fine, new bearings, new control arm bushings. I have the necessary parts (aftermarket conical bolts and hubcentric rings). There are no noticeable bends or dents in the rims and it's starting to get annoying..so, should I get rid of them or maybe there is something that I'm missing here. Could the wheels just be bad.
View 24 Replies2003 f350 dually. Fully bulletproofed about 10k miles ago. Everything was running great for about 5k miles. A friend of mine got stuck and I went to pull him out. Got him out but got on it really hard...never overheated or anything.
Next day truck throws a cyLinder 5 contribution balance code. Ran ok but idled rough. Pulled injector and put a used one from a running truck in it. Code went away and runing fine for a few weeks. Took a long trip from FL to Texas, and on the way home same code occurred but idle was not as bad. I would clear the code and it would be fine for a few hundred miles, then would show up again. Made it home, still was driving around town a little with the code only showing sometimes. A couple blocks away from home taking off from a stop sign lost all power and motor shut off. Turned out the Injector o ring blew and hydrolocked the motor.
So now, ordered all new 155cc30% injectors , 58v ficm and new oem injector harness. Installed and Drove the truck to Illinois. After about 700 miles I noticed a little rough idle and had a cylinder 4 cont code. Made to Illinois and back to fl. At fl line I had cyld. 4 and 5 codes now. Cleared and cyld 4 was gone but 5 stayed. Got home and balance test showed 4 and 5 bad injectors. Sent them off to be fixed just got them back in. Truck started fine, smooth idle, ran for about 10 miles and cyld 5 code come back and so does the rough idle. I'm at a loss now.
Will be doing compression test tomorrow. Other than a rough idle truck runs flawless, will roast the tires and pull anything hooked to it. No hot starts, no symptoms of anything else. Possibly a problem with the oil rail feed on that cylinder? Main ficm harness? Bent pushrod?