Golf IV R32 :: AWD Won't Working And Tires Are Roasted
Jun 9, 2011
So I recently bought my R with only 60k miles bone stock, and i had a feeling my awd wasn't working because i would roast my tires in first, and chirp bad into second.. so i am putting it on a lift today and i was wondering what i should look for that can be causing the problem. i hear the fuses and rear diff fluids can affect it so ill have to check.
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I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
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I just bought a used 2009 VW GTI which is a lovely car as you can see from this picture:[URl]. As you can also see from that picture I live in one of the many snowy states. The roads now resemble the lunar surface except with deeper craters and potholes. When I bought the car, I was stupid enough to be talked into a $500 5 year warranty. Or was I? I've driven the car for almost a month and have replaced 2 tires due to pothole damage. At this rate, I'm way ahead on the warranty. The car has 18" low profile tires which seem sensitive to being banged into the rim of potholes. Is there something about my driving that's causing this issue? I don't really speed and the last blowout happened at around 30mph. Is this something I just have to live with? Can I replace the tires w/ normal tires?
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Had a friend at vw change my haldex fluid and the next day I'm driving my tires locked then let go and skidded a bit now my car is making a very weird noise from the rear and where the haldex is located I'm getting a bit of leaking.
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I destroyed my front tires about 3 months ago, I thought the tracking was out because the inside of the tires were all chewed up, so I bought 2 new ones and had the tracking done. Well today I took the .:R to the Tire Barn for a rotation and they informed me that there's wear on the inside again.
IWould it prevent any more damage to the tires if I replaced the front control arm bushings and had a new alignment done? Ideally I would like to replace the control arms but I can't afford that right now as I'm about to buy a house.
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I have a 2004 VW R32 lowered and all 4 of the tires wear down on the inside really fast. Camber kit? Which kit should I get?
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I have a slow leak in one of my tires. Loses maybe 1 PSI per day. I've taken the tire off, washed it, examined it closely, used dishwashing soap (to look for bubbles) and cannot find the leak. Even paid close attention to the valve.
So now I'm thinking of using of those cans of sealant, but I'm afraid of damaging the tire pressure sensor.
FWIW, the tires have about 13K miles on them.
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All 4 tires on my R32 at 40psi, but the TPMS light still on. Just wondering what PSI all R32 owner running?
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Need new tires for my R32. I am not satisfied with the OEM Dunlop tires, will not buy them again. They make too much noise!
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I have gone back and forth to different dealers and have gotten many different responses. The first response I got was it was pulling to the right because of the crowning of the road. Then they told me I needed two new tires. After getting them replaced the car is still pulling to the right. I went to a different dealership thinking they would be able to get it straightened out. Before I took it over there I called VWoA and they said they would cover the cost of the alignment. After the car was checked by this new dealership they came to the conclusion that it was torque steer. I advised them that it veers to the right even if the car is in neutral and rolling in the middle lane of the highway.
I may be contacting a lawyer for a lemon law claim. VWoA says I do not have a claim because a problem was never found, though I do have paperwork stating that the issue was verified by a technician at a VW dealership. I also went and had it put on an alignment machine at Sears and I have the papers that show the car is not aligned properly. But they continue to say that there is nothing wrong with the car.
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A message appears on my dashboard "Check Tires." The pressures are OK...
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My front tires had previously been wearing out a lot faster on the inside. I was told it was due to the front lower control arms, does this sound right? Is it possible and cost effective to just have the bushings rebuilt (replaced) or will i have to buy new control arms. How can I tell what my car actually needs? I just put 4 new tires on the car and am weary of driving it until i get this fixed.
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I just got new tires installed on Saturday. I drove home about 3 miles with no problems. I then started driving this morning and when I got on the highway (70+ mph) the TPMS light came on. I pulled over and all of the tires looked fine. I tried resetting the button but it immediately came back on. I then had to drive about 20 miles round trip down to the 1st exit and back home. I attempted to go to the tire installer but they were closed. I checked the tire pressure next door at a gas station and all the tires had 38-40 psi.
Two things of note. The passenger side tires stem caps did not screw on tight, instead they would just keep spinning. I don't think tight caps could have caused this though. Secondly the tires were replaced because they had very little tread left and I hit numerous pot holes one night causing a flat in one and a bubble in another. Why this would happen. I would think a bent rim could cause the air to leak but the pressures where perfect all around.
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I just got 4 new tires installed, running 235-40/18 setup (stock wheels.) On the drive home, the flat tire warning sign came on. I've tried to used the SET button in the glove compartment to deactivate it. That did not work (it flashed one time then stay on).
I check the pressure on all 4 tires and they're all at exactly 40PSI. What the problem could be and how to turn this pos off without going to the dealership?
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Driving a 2003 GTI
My girlfriends dad and I just recently replaced my pads,rotors, and bled the brakes. He is a journeyman mechanic however he does not see a lot of cars, he mostly works on trains.
Short version is after this replacement I am able to press the peddle to the floor and not lockup or engage the ABS. Before with the old worn brakes this would be no problem to do. We tried bleeding a little more off the brakes to see if there was some air. no bubbles came out. he insists there's lots of brake power. I just find it odd that i can press the pedal to the floor board and not lock up the tires, or feel like i have any real emergency stopping power.
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Any tips for keep rear tire wear to a minimum? Mine are starting to cup along the inner edge and are very noisy at 20, and 40 mph. 20mph is worse even in the front end.
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I'm trying to figure out why I am having problems with my read tires wearing fast. I knew my car was out of alignment and took it to a shop and they told me I have -1.05 negative toe and bad camber.
Can some shims fix my issue or would I be better with a whole new rear beam. As far as I know the car has never been lowered, but how would I be able to tell?
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I just did my 20k service and also replaced my stock Continentals with the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus on Friday. Driving to a friends tonight, I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the front left wheel at slow speeds mainly below 25 whether I use the brakes or not. I only have 19,600 miles on the vehicle so I doubt it is the brakes.
I went out to check to make sure they had the tires set to rotate in the correct direction which they do and I noticed it is the only wheel that makes a noise if I push on the tire itself. None of the other tires make noise and it sounds almost like someone is hyperventilating when I pushed on it.
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How strong is the handbrake? Can it lock up the rear tires while driving? Pulled pretty hard but no go
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I've had the pleasure of getting towed out of my own apartment complex earlier this morning. Parking placard fell off dashboard so it was not visible.
Regardless, I go to pick up my car from the lot. I'm cranking my steering wheel right and before I could even fully pull out of the stall, I hear and feel rubbing coming from the front left fender. I get the same symptoms in the right fender when I crank the wheel fully to the left.
This is the FIRST time I've experienced rubbing. Keep in mind that I'm sitting on h&r sport springs, oems wheels and p zero tires. I profoundly let the manager know my issue and he told me they'll have their mechanic take a look. They obviously took the position of no fault on their end.
I'm not mechanically inclined but I'm wondering if improper or misguided towing instructions could be the culprit here.
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IDK if it's just me but i feel like i keep hearing a rattling/rumbling type sound when driving on the highway. idk if it's coming from the tires, the rotors, or if the dealership put the tires on incorrectly today.
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