Golf IV R32 :: AC Stopped Blowing Cold - Driver Side Fan Wasn't Turning On
Jun 22, 2013
Well my a/c stopped blowing cold last week so I took it to an a/c shop and they said it was really low on freon. The guy recharged it and we noticed the driver side fan wasn't turning on. Said that it was causing to much pressure and it was blessing it off causing the loss of freon. So I came home and put it on the lift to check out the fans. I unplugged the fans from the bottom side below the fcm and the pass side fan comes on with a 12v source but when I put power to the other plug (drivers side fan) there's nothing across the high or low side. Guessing the fan is toast right? Just making sure before I order a new fan. What's all involved in replacing the fan? Also I've read the vw fans have a resistor that are known for burning out. Should I go with oem or a different brand from ecs?
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My a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
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I have a 2012 truck that the AC wasn't blowing cold air this summer so I took it in and they said nothing was wrong... Took back in and they replaced vent control... worked a little bit. Fall came and my windows fog up and really never clears up so I take it in and they said it is blowing hot air but I told them that isn't the problem but the moister in the cab is the problem. I feel I'm getting the run around.
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I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
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On my 2003 GX 470 w/ 135,000 I have an issue that I can't figure out how to resolve.
The driver side lets out hot heat and the passenger side lets out cold air. I have the dual climate control and both sides are at MAX HEAT with the blower on HIGH. I have 2 vents for each the passenger and the driver.
The left side of steering wheel vent is allowing max heat. the right side of steering wheel vent lets out warm air. Not as hot as left side but warm. On the passenger side, its only letting out cold air and gets colder if I lower the temp on the climate control for right side.
Engine coolant is full, no lights on dash. Blower motor sounds like its working fine.
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My A/C is blowing Cold on the drivers side and very hot on the passenger side. I need to know if it could only be the Right Actuator or if it could be that or the temp control module or low refrigerant or low coolant. I am Disabled and need to know how to track it down before i order an actuator.
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Where the Air Door Actuator is located in the Elantra 2014, and How to reach it?
I want to check it as my AC is blowing Hot air from driver side and Cold air from passenger side.
I read that there are 2 of them, one for temp control and another one controls where the air goes, one at the passenger side and one at the driver side...
Which one should i start with, where is it located, and how to reach it?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe with the 4.8L V8. My A/C is blowing hot on the drivers side and cold on passenger side. There is only one controller, not two. What the problem could be...and I'm scared to ask...how much it may cost to fix? It has happened only one other time and that was a year ago, and it has worked fine since then until today.
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A month ago, it didn't start out of the blue. When I went over to try to start it, it wasn't turning. Seemed like the battery died. It's under warranty so the dealer came and picked it up. They called the next day and said that it started without any issues.
Today, my gf made it to work, but when tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. She got it towed again. The dealer called and said they were able to start it without any problems. We told them that we had the problem and was concerned. Then they responded with they have to keep the car for a couple of days to do some testing. Now my gf is out of a car for the next two days.
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My 1.8 2014 Elantra AC started blowing Hot Air from Driver Side and Cold from Passenger side and i noticed this after a battery problem. It all started when battery problem, suddenly both sides warm ac, i took it to a mechanic, he said nothing to do with battery and said it is a freon problem, he fixed it for 1 day or 2, and i went changed the battery, then suddenly, one side hot and one side cold.
Things i tried:
1. Removing AC fuses for 1 hour
2. Removing AC fuses while car on and then turn off car and replace fuses
3. Changed car filters
4. Hot cold hot cold switching technique
5. No freon leakage
Temperature here is around 120 degrees so you can imagine!
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This is on a 06 GTI. Yesterday my AC just stopped blowing cold. I checked the fuses did not find any that were bad. Belts are new, compressor is spinning, not sure if the clutch is engaging, can't hear anything clicking etc. Upon further investigation it is doing some weird stuff. Fan speed works fine, blows air but no cold air however if I try and get hot air (the heater) there is no change in air temp. If I turn the "ECON" button on and off no change. If I turn on the front defrost then I get Hot air but that is the only way I can get any temp change hot or cold, nothing will make it blow cold just to clarify. Last odd thing is if I crank the heat up to max I get no airflow from anywhere!? What is going on?
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No AC... Its not the fuse box on top of the battery, I recently already changed that. The air coming out is not cold at all, so I checked the pressure, and it was even higher then it was supposed to. After letting some pressure out, still no cold air. What could the issue be? Should I maybe bleed the system?
Also, its a 2001 GLX so I have climatronic....
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I bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
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I have an 2004 Camry XLE which just had the coolant flushed. Now I only have heat on the driver side. It blows cold air in the rest of the car. Temperature runs normal. Antifreeze is full. I can get more heat if I recirculate from the inside rather than bring in air from outside. It is zero in NY. Car never heats up on HOT!
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So my alternator went bad last week so I replaced it. Tested it yesterday and it was charging fine and drove it to work. I got the esp light on after driving 10 miles everytime I start it. So I go start it and it turns over slow but starts. Before I got to a friends house I was getting on it from a stop pretty hard and noticed the ac stopped blowing cold air. I go to leave a few hours later and it barely turns over and died shortly after moving. Took a while to jump it and the battery light blinked the whole way home. THEN, I go inside and hear something about 5 minutes later and my stereo is on! Also ABS light is on. Could a dead battery do all this?
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My 08 Azera blows cold air out the drivers side vent when everything on the right sides blows heat. If I set drivers side 88 degrees it blows some warm air. I changed the cabin filter and that did not work.
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Vehicle - 2005 Suburban LS, 5.3L V8; manual slide temp controls, separate controls for driver and passenger sides.Issue - In winter drive side vents will suddenly switch from blowing hot air to cold air. Just the opposite happens in the summer with drive side vents suddenly switching for blowing cold air to hot. Interestingly the passenger side vents operate normally. Sometimes if I stop and restart the vehicle the system will start working properly again but this does not always work.
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I have a problem with my Lariat blowing cold air on the driver's side. It happened last weekend when it was snowing hard and drove around town for a couple hours with defrost on. After I got out on the interstate the cold air was blowing in through the vent on the driver's door and down by my feet. It was -4 driving home. I though that some ice may have gotten in and jammed a damper open allowing cold air in. I took the truck in and thawed it out and the same thing happens. Cold air out of drivers side and hot air out of the passengers side. The truck has the dual heat/cool setup and it seems as if the driver's side is stuck on cold but I have it set on just driver. It was only -25 this morning.
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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Well, as the cold weather has approached, a minor issue has surfaced.
It appears my driver-side mirror heater is not working. Both mirrors still move as they should, and the rear defroster and passenger side mirror both heat as the should with the defrost button, but the driver side does not, as it is cold to the touch and naturally did not melt the frost yesterday.
I looked at the fuses hoping it would be something as simple as that, but it does not appear there are separate fuses for each mirror; the naming is a bit cryptic, but it looks like there may be one for both mirrors, which logically would not explain the situation.
Seems to me the heater itself is defective, and I am not exactly looking forward to opening up the mirror and/or spending money to fix this...
The Prius is a 2006, and I am up to 256K KM (~160K miles) to date.
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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