Golf IV R32 :: AC High Pressure Switch Went Out / Failed
Apr 5, 2010
So I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
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2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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Probably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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I purchased a 2011 GTI on Tuesday. Loving it so far. I've got a question about a noise I hear though. It is at 1500 rpm. It sounds like high pressure air, kind of a pshhhhh sound (like letting air out of a tire). It isn't loud and there's no impact on performance. I assume this is just the turbo spooling up or something related to that? This is my first car with a turbo so just want to be sure .
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My Honda CRX, 1989 failed the NJ Inspections for very high Emissions. The engine has 200,000 miles. I had a lot of repairs done on it: new majorrnator, new oil pan cover, new engine gasket, new radiator, new axels. brakes, new alternator. catalytic converter, muffler. Unfortunately, now it failed for very high emissions. I added the Diesel and Car Cleaner, but did not work. what can I do to fix the car so it will pass the Emissions Test? what can be wrong with it, and will it cost me a lot of money. Is it worth trying to cure it or should I retire it, and sell it?I am on a very tight budget, and am depending on this car for my transportation.
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One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
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My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
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So I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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When I bought a used camry 5 years ago and drove it on the highway, my front tire busted and damaged the fender cuz it had too much air!! I wonder if it shows high pressure on my 2010 gen III Prius v with ATP. I know that the tires are special on this v version but still I like to keep a slightly higher pressure in the front ones because the lane keep assist feature works better with higher tire pressure. Summer is coming up so that gets me worried what to do with tire pressures.
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My car failed emissions and I was told that the N80 purge valve needs replacement.
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2002 cheverlot impala . the oil pressure switch keeps going bad and the diaphragm bust and oil comes out where the plug is. had to replace four in over a year . why and what make them go bad ?
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How do I jump the low pressure freon switch on a 2003 ford escape? I'm putting freon in my 2003 escape, but the compressor won't keep running, so what do I do to keep the compressor running?
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Looking for the low pressure switch, (back towards fire wall, black cap on it passenger side) I think I found it, but when I hook up the AC pro that gauge doesn't register any psi, when I hooked up same AC pro to our Acura TL the gauge registered and I was a little down so I added some In.
So any tips on what's up? Wife's car blows cold air just wanted to see where it's at and if I need to check for leaks or just add some 134a ...
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Does the oil cooler have to be removed to change out the oil pressure switch? If not, any pix or how-to posted around? Done a Google but apart for Jetta 2.0L nothing seems to come up
Believe it's located on top of the oil filter bracket according to ETKA, but that doesn't show what components are around or on top of it
Am fitting a 42DD re-location unit so I can have the switch and a GlowShift oil pressure sender onto it. Car was on a lift yesterday but couldn't see a way to get at it
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New owner of a used 2002 Ranger XLT 4x4 (with 59k miles) here (and new to this forum). Having problems with the oil pressure gauge not registering on cold starts (though it registers after the engine warms up).
I know this is nothing more than an idiot light since the gauge isn't really a gauge (inasmuch as it registers in the normal range at 7 psi and stays there unless the pressure goes away).
I've read that this is likely due to the oil pressure switch not functioning properly. I'd like to know where this switch is located on a 4.0 L V6. Other than this, the engine functions normally (though it sucks the gas).
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have a 1991 4.0 5spd stx, and the A/C does not work. converted to r-134, and its full of freon. listen to this crap. no power at the low side pressure switch, or at the pump, tried to cross lowside but nothing happened, all the fuses are good and i have no flippin' clue whats wrong. must have stopped at about 5-6 different auto repair places and all the dumb poo intern whatchamacallits have no clue.
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How do you get to the oil pressure switch on a 1998 F150 4x4? I can see it over the top of the front axle but can't find any way to get my hand in to unplug the sensor wire. Do you have to unbolt and drop the axle down a couple of inches?
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I'm trying to find the power steering pressure switch for a 2002 PT Cruiser. I have been under the car and located a pump on the passenger side with a two prong connector. The connector looks to be in good shape. I thought the switch was replaceable but there was nothing to screw out only two prongs going in. Am I looking at the wrong part and if so where is the power steering pump?
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My sister has 03 wagon GLX and her a/c just stopped working one day. It was a few months ago and I remember when it happened that I scanned w/ VAG-COM and it gave some sort of pressure switch code - can't remember if it was low or high, but at time she wasn't concerned w/ it ($$ was tight). Unfortunately, I saved info on my laptop and can't find the document now and the car isn't throwing the code any more (I tried turning a/c on several times).
It sounds like a pressure switch to me, but not sure what the part would be (or where it is located on car). Any tests I can perform to confirm this? Also, I see two listed on ECS and they're nothing alike
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