The last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
View 15 RepliesI noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
View 2 RepliesFeel this is a bit stupid, but whatever. I was jacking up the front wheel of the car today on the pinch welds (one part of it got super bent) and while the jack was almost maxed out, my front wheel didn't go anywhere. I must've had almost a foot gap between the wheel and the fender..
Took some pictures of where I jacked, and the suspension/wheel of the car. What it could've been or how I'm supposed to properly lift it so the wheel comes up?
can see the pics here: [URL].....
I have had some weird feelings in my clutch after I launch my R hard, it feels like the clutch is tighter and has a different feel to it than with normal driving. car is stock for the most point and fairly new to me so I am not sure if anything has been replaced clutch wise. What the problem might be?
View 3 RepliesSo after my first track day i bleed my brakes and they felt great for about 3 days, but then the pedal feel started to deteriorate back to its old crappy feel where nothing happens until its depressed to the same depth as the gas pedal...
In other words, I have about a solid 1.5 inches of travel with nothing happening.
Fixes? Bleeding procedure? I heard we have to prime our abs pumps? yes no?
I am going to be looking into this a little bit tomorrow with an oil change and noisy hub bearing.
Car : 2002 Jetta GLS 1.8t stock 5spd ~165k miles
Symptoms : Light acceleration (day to day), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to 2-2500 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Moderate acceleration (casual hwy on ramp, stoplight fun), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 25-2800 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Hard acceleration (short hwy on ramp), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 28-3100 range. I do not feel any symptoms noted above.
The hesitation felt is enough to cause the car to feel like it had a short loss of power. This does give a jerky feel.
My thoughts : I know there were issues with the coils in this model/year. I have verified through the deal that the vin had received the replacements but unsure if they are the actual replacements. My dad thinks it may be turbo related (which is also stock and never pulled apart to my knowledge).
I found that this KO3s turbo should be fully spooled about 2200rpms. It seems to coincide with my lower rpm accel that maybe I am loosing some of the spool and feeling that?
Other Info : Am I way off or is there anything I can check for easily? I am not very knowledgeable in turbos beyond their basic functions. This is also my first turbo car. I have owned the car 2yrs now. It seemed to have always been there but I don't recall noticing it on the initial test drive. The trans has been replaced since noticing this for other reasons but did not correct this.
I've had my R32 for a week now and I'm starting to develop some questions. This is one that I haven't been able to find an answer to by searching, so here it goes. When the ABS is active (coming to a hard stop on snow and ice, for example), I get a really strange almost "crunchy" feel through the brake pedal. ABS I've experienced on other cars hasn't been this harsh so I'm not sure if it's normal on these.
View 4 RepliesCarefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
View 3 RepliesSo this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
I have a Mk VII R manual transmission with only 500 miles on it, but I'm having an issue that I think some of you may have experienced. My clutch is perfectly smooth when idling or in neutral, but there is a slight "gritty" feel or like rubbing against sandpaper when I lift up the clutch, mostly in 1st or 2nd gear and just when I give it throttle and the car starts moving or when the clutch engages. I thought maybe I was crazy but I did a search and found multiple people with this same issue on the MK VI R's.
[URL] ....
And this one: [URL] ....
I've got 500 miles now, so I'm going to wait until 1000 to bring it to the dealer.
The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
View 10 RepliesThis morning I stopped at a Royal Farms store and when I left, the nav didn't boot up. I pulled over and turned my SFS of and back on and everything was back to normal.
View 25 RepliesI changed the resistor but level 5 still didn't work with the new resistor installed... Found out that it was a 30 amp fuse #53 under the hood, the high level blower fuse. Installed a new fuse, put the old resistor back in and the AC blower worked fine! However, one more problem....the new fuse blew a few minutes later...not sure what that is about. I installed a second 30 amp fuse and it has been working for an hour so far.
View 2 RepliesI'm a new Prius owner (only 500 miles) and have experienced a lot of issues so far. Today I got in my car and both front and rear windows were fogged up. I turned on both defoggers and the front window would not clear. I set the vent speed to high and could hear a noise like the air was blowoing, but it did NOT clear the front window - I had to clear it with a cloth so I could see.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius, the ready light would come on, but when I pushed the start button, the engine would turn over and stop?
Had the car towed to the Toyota Dealer, and they told me that the HV ECU was bad? After replacing the ECU, it still would not start, now the dealer is telling me it's the inverter or the transaxle?
I have a 2000 VW Passat which i bought used from a dealership about a month ago. Just two days ago i was driving home, i was about a block away from my house when i went to indicate and nothing happened. The little arrow lit up green but didn't blink. My lights didn't blink. And there was no noise. I tried the other side and the same thing happened. I pulled up outside my house and shut off the car. When i turned it back on everything was working again. Then, yesterday i was once again a block away from my house when it happened for a second time.
Not having a proper blinker, in my opinion, is very dangerous. What should i do?
Also, my car is very loud. Someone suggested that i might have a hole in my muffler. others have said it's because it's a Turbo engine. But my mom's Audi is a turbo and it doesn't make VOOM VOOM noises.
Looking at the owners manual and it states that if you have the key on you the unlock will work. Well, I can't unlock the hatch door on my Prius 2 with my hands unless the door(s) are first unlocked. This seems odd, yes?
View 18 RepliesWhen AC is on "Auto" the fan runs at slowest speed unless outside temp is over 100 degrees or setting is below 64 degrees. With setting left at 70 or 71 degrees, and outside temp is 80 or higher, cabin temp will slowly rise when driving in traffic and will slowly fall at speeds over 60, but not reach set temp until driving over an hour plus.
If fan is manually adjusted to higher speed, "Auto" system shuts off and AC becomes totally manual control. If the "Auto" button is touched, fan goes off again and the system will not do any of the automatic functions spelled out in manual.
Two different dealers have advised that ALL 2014 Avalons are like this and so it is considered "normal" regardless of what manual says and they and Toyota Customer Service refuse to do anything about it. What is the experience of other 2014 owners.