Golf IV R32 :: 2WD Only / Car Not Engaging AWD At All
May 10, 2014
So I noticed that my R32 is not engaging AWD at all. I can light up the front tires pretty good. I scanned the car on a VAG-COM and got one code under Haldex: 01155 - Clutch 04-10 Mechanicsl Malfunction - intermittant. What would cause this code? Now I've done some quick research and saw it mentioned that a bad e-brake or brake switch, aftermarket tail lights/wiring. I do have a euro switch/headlights/taillights with the rear fog wired up to work. I'm going to put it on a lift in a couple days to start checking stuff out. I just got the car a few days ago and would really like to get this sorted out before my first autocross event on the 17th.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
The last time I drove my .:R, I was noticing something weird when I'd downshift from 6th to 5th. Usually when I'm around 40mph. If I'd downshift, then press the gas a little to accelerate a little, it would take a moment, almost feeling like lag before it would engage. It's kind of hard to explain. I was wondering if this had anything to do with some linkage problems maybe? I was trying to think of other problems, but I'm not too sure what else it could be.
View 11 Replies
My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 Replies
Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 Replies
I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
View 18 Replies
Just put transmission back in car after getting 3/4 gear synchros replaced and tdi 5th gear installed. I adjusted the shift linkage multiple times and did the procedure 100% correct. Now, all gears work except for 3rd. I can't get into 3rd at all whether shifting with cables installed or just freely from tower.
View 4 Replies
I replaced my rear pads on Sunday and the car drives and brakes great. This morning I noticed when I backed into my parking spot at work that the brakes were engaging to the point where I was on a small incline and the car didn't roll at all when I let off the brake pedal.
This was my first time doing the rear pads on my MKVI and my first time doing brakes on a VW. Is there some extra step required that I'm missing? I know the piston was a PITA, definitely not used to having to turn a piston while compressing.
View 19 Replies
Exactly what the title says.....when its cold out/cold start....engaging the clutch pedal it makes a click sounds up top of engagement?
View 6 Replies
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
View 9 Replies
I got my R32 back 2 days ago after deploying to Iraq for a year. Upon driving it for the first time I took it a little easy on the car. I made sure the clutch was fully out before I did anything silly and what not.
Today I took it to the track and on the first launch I dropped it from like 3500 rpm and the RPMs shot up to 7500 and the car was moving at like 5 mph. I hit second gear and the rpm almost instantly shot up to 7500 rpm's again with the car moving at like 10 or 15 miles an hour.
After that, i let off completely. I tried one more time out in the warm up area to see what the hell was going on. Did the same thing. I could smell what I'm guessing was clutch burning pretty freaking bad. I'm, not 100% sure it was the clutch because I've never smelt a clutch smell that strong before.
View 24 Replies
I have a 2015 with 10k miles on it and every once and a while, when I come to a complete stop and shift into reverse, I take my foot off of the brake pedal and the car will sit there for up to 5 seconds. Then, it kicks in and starts rolling backwards. This has happened 6 times now. Giving it gas doesn't seem to work along. I took it to the dealer today for it's 10k service, and they cannot find anything wrong with it. There are no codes in the computer, the fluid is where it should be, and they think the Neuspeed Power Module has something to do with it. I told them it happened before I installed that piece. I can assure you I am not racing in reverse.
View 7 Replies
So i just took my 2010 Golf 2.5 into the dealer because it was not going into gear. Its a 5 speed with 12, 900 miles. They tell me they have to pull the trans and open it up before they can even tell whether or not the problem is covered under warranty!
View 16 Replies
Lately I've noticed that when slowly engaging first or reverse, the clutch has noticeable but not loud chatter, kind of like its gargling a little. I JUST changed the trans fluid from OEM to Amsoil 75W-90 API GL4 and its about the same time the noise came, but I'm not going to assume right now that this is the source of the noise. Clutch acts just the same, apart from this gargle.
Might be worth mentioning that this all seems to have started about the same time the temps around here started to dip below 30 on a regular basis
View 9 Replies
My03 GLI will not engage first or second gear.
This morning, i was having some issues getting the car in reverse, but it eventually engaged and is fine now. I drove to the barbershop, and on the way home, the shifter stopped engaging 1st or 2nd gear. it moves freely into position (TOO FREELY) and all other gears will engage. common sense tells me that the clutch is fine and the problem is with the shifter.
View 7 Replies
Got a weird issue that I've never encountered before. I tried searching but you can't search for just "A/C", so the search was pretty generic and I couldn't find anything similar to my issue.
Hot or cold, doesn't matter. When I turn the A/C on the clutch try's to engage and slowly starts to spin with the pulley until until it finally engages then the a/c will blow out cold air just fine. Also noticed a burning smell coming from it.
01 Jetta 2.0
View 2 Replies
Today I parked my golf on the street and it was raining, when I came back to the car after four hours the street had flooded and water was about an inch below the bottom of the door on the driver side, and about an inch (or more) on the passenger side and up to the bottom of the exhaust pipes in the back.
The car started fine, but when I began to drive it the clutch would slip and then bang while engaging. Once I had taken off a few times gently everything smoothed out. Car drives fine and the engine bay was dry when I got home (a 40 minute highway drive). NO water got inside the car at all, so the interior was completely dry, every thing appeared to function perfectly. My question is, assuming just the bottom of the motor, trans, and undercarriage got wet is there anything I should be weary of? Any sensors or electrical things down there? Lights, ac, door locks, everything is working and running fine and dry at this point.
View 3 Replies
So I get in the car to drive back home, and after i start it wont engage gear, PRNDS flashing, cant get the key out, total drama. Called the dealer. I will tow it back to the origin where it came from. What it is. Shift solenoid failure... But f..ck knows with these things. It only took me 4589785115 times to get the key out...
View 18 Replies
I have been reluctant to post another clunking thread because it's nearly impossible to accurately describe what is happening. But I have reached by breaking point and I wanted a few opinions before I take it into the dealer. I am still under powertrain warranty, but I want to be confident I am not wasting mine and the dealers time if I am just missing something easy. I also know dealers don't always take clunks seriously so I want to pinpoint it first.
Symptoms : Car has 50k miles. I am the original owner.
From a stop, when getting the car rolling moderately aggressively there is a clunk/pop noise from the car. I can slightly feel it in the pedals and it is fairly loud. Almost like a distant hammer and nail pounding. It's a single clunk, with sometimes a double "pop pop". It's noticeable even with the radio turned up a little. If you are smooth on the throttle it doesn't make the noise. It seems random, like something is hitting something which only happens under certain weight shifts.
It sounds like it's from the rear and the front. It seems to switch. But honestly I am not confident either way. Where it is. It is silent on turns, bumps, speed bumps, driveway, etc. I don't think it's the suspension. It is not a clicking/tapping, only a single clunk or knock.
It also happens in 1st/2nd in stop and go traffic. If you leave it in 1st and the traffic is moving from say 8-15mph where you don't need to use the clutch it will clunk during on/off throttle. Anything above ~30mph I haven't been able to replicate the noise with on/off throttle.
It also does it if I downshift when coming to a stop and don't rev match. Say you are slowing down and you go from 4th, 3rd, then 2nd, let the clutch out and it rev matches up to ~3,000rpm which causes the weight to shift forward....clunk! It is not easy to replicate which is another reason I am slow to bring it to the dealer until I pinpoint it.
Things I have tried:
- Subframe bolt torque check. Installed ECS spacer/bolt kit anyway.
- Sway bar links are tight, or at least they didn't budge at all.
- Adjusted the rear hatch a million different ways as it was making a similar noise earlier.
- Spare tire tightened, tools removed
- Rear seats up/down/mix/seat belts fastened, etc.
I was only able to locate one motor mount? Where they are. Seems fine. Dogbone seems fine, again hard to tell.
Suspect:
I have VWR springs, but I am 90% sure this started happening right before I had them installed. I did the rears myself, a well known shop did the front. I noticed the noise maybe 2k before the springs were installed.
Clutch linkage somewhere - I had issues with my transmission (early build). The clutch was replaced at 7k. I've always had a very loud flywheel and a grinding feeling in the pedal. Maybe the shifter linkage is hitting something? I have little experience with VW's so I am still learning and don't know what to check.
My rear harmonic balancer is cracking like everyone else. I have no vibrations yet and I don't see how it could be causing a clunk in the current state. Maybe a motor mount is bad that I cant see? It feels like something is loose in the drivetrain.
View 7 Replies
The other night I threw an EPC light. I've tried reading older posts but haven't found anything.
I was at the top of a hill, slowly engaging the clutch while accelerating. I wasn't trying to floor it or anything. My car immediately went into limp mode and the EPC light came on. I pulled over, restarted the car, and it went away. It happened again the next day in the same place.
I am only having the problem on a steep hill while engaging the clutch. Other than this situation, the car seems to be running fine. The car is completely bone stock. I don't have a VAGCOM and can't really afford to purchase one at the moment.
View 1 Replies
Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
View 1 Replies
2011 GTI (65k miles). Selective brakes intermittently engaging when grip is adequate. Only happens at speed (>50 mph) when turning, most often with change in pitch (uphill/downhill). Traction light flashes. Happens when ESP on or off, wet or dry. Plenty of tread on (snow) tires. Mild bearing noise has persisted for >20k miles. Two dealers and one third-party shop couldn't find anything wrong, including with bearings. No stored faults.
My suspicion: slow (non-critical) bearing failure causing bad ABS sensor signal/fault, causing ABS/ESP engagement, especially with change in pitch. Related but simpler: ABS sensor failure or bad connection. Pulling fuses?
View 13 Replies
