Golf IV R32 :: 2011 - Harmonic Dampener On Driveshaft Need Replacement At 104K?
Oct 19, 2010
Not driving the R as much now that I got a 2011 Triumph Street Triple R. I use as my primary transportation. But I had the car into the dealer this week for service and they said there is a rubber dampener on the driveshaft that is starting to crack and get loose.
I didn't get time to check out the car on the lift and have not had any problems with this shop in the past nor the mechanic who has ONLY worked on my car since new. The R now has 104K on it.
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I noticed I was a bit low on coolant and started looking around. Found a drip on the serpentine belt and harmonic dampener. The T-stat is dry and was replaced 1.5 yrs ago with a full flush. Both hoses are fine and there is no coolant near the steering assembly.
I am figuring it is coming from the water pump. I am planning to put in that Bulletproof water pump and Mishimoto silicon hoses. Anything else I should consider before I dive in. I'll put a new T-stat on since the coolant is drained and it is cheap $20 insurance. BTW hoses and water pump are original (7/05 build date).
Additional information - no spots on driveway (from coolant anyway) and single drop on the dampener. No mess anywhere else and I am down about 1/2 gallon - degas is almost empty.
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Installed a new dampener on the front passenger side. As soon as we lowered it off the jack it was higher. Pulled out of the driveway and lowered a bit, drove around the block settle a little more.
Now, three days later, it is still not level. Do I just need to keep driving it and let it settle? Will it not settle as low as the other because it is brand new and the rest of the kit is a year old? If so is the best thing just to just play with the other three corners till its level?
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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The other day, as I got up to speed on the interstate on moderately wet asphalt, a harmonic vibration started at around 65mph. Felt it in the seat of my pants more than in the steering wheel...the entire chassis was vibrating. So bad that when I called a friend to ask him what he thought, he could hear the vibration in my voice. Clutch in, engaged, under power, under back pressure - nothing affected the pitch or harmonics. Below 65 changed the intensity, but had to slow to 50 to make it stop. Took it all the way to 90, but no difference. This kept up for the entire 70 mile trip.
Now for the weird part. On my way back, 2 hours later, the rain had stopped and the interstate was now dry. No vibration. Just as smooth as glass all the way home. I had it in for service recently, because it happened once before...no codes, no clue from tech as to what brought this on. And just to be sure, I had them balance the wheels...very minor weight adjustment. I called the dealer on the way back to tell them it happened again, and all the tech could suggest was to stop by next time it was raining so they could road test it.
Even more weird is the fact that this has only happened twice and I drive the interstate in the rain all the time.
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The MK6 GoRf seems to have a problem with the Rear Harmonic Balancer on the Driveshaft to Haladex Coupler. I will have a look under the car this weekend just to check it out. By the way, I have no driveline vibration under acceleration. Wonder if the problem is with more power/torque on the turbo engines. But we have plenty of boosted VR6 engines, and I wonder if there are problems with the part.
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Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
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Came home in the R32 tonight to an awful noise.. Pulled the drivers rear wheel off and pulled a small rock out from between the rotor and dust cap however in doing so, discovered a huge crack in the driveshaft! This is about 2" long... How critical is this to be repaired and is it covered under warranty at 75k mi???
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I recently lowered my mk4 golf with coilovers, now the sway bar is rubbing on the right driveshaft axle... could I just get a small diameter driveshaft instead of getting sway bars? My driveshift is about 2 inches wide...
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2013 GOLF R 9800 MILE, Driveshaft went out. The dealer is going to take care of this problem. I don't think i should be having to replace the drive shaft at 9800 MILES.
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How to keep the driveshaft from spinning while I undo the 10mm 12pts? It just seems around enough to slightly scare me into thinking the car might move, and I can't seem to break them loose.
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My MK4 Jetta started leaking coolant recently and I'm not sure where it would be coming from. I already checked the reservoir to see if it was leaking out of there but I could not find any leakage. I've found some coolant on the right side driveshaft near the differential, there is also some on the diff. I'm wondering if this could of happened because it has been sitting on a jack stand not being driven for about 2 months. Is it possible that within that time 1 or more of the coolant hoses could have cracked or anything. And while I'm on the subject of why it's on a jack stand, it also has gone through wheel bearings twice within the last 6 months to a year. Is this normal?
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So, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
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I'm about to change out my harmonic balancer and have been reading some sites that tell you have to put it at TDC and other sites say "no" unless your messing with the timing belt. I have a 2002 dodge neon.
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on the 3.5 how do I get the harmonic balancer off? I know that you need to use a 3 arm puller. I have a 3 arm puller but I cant seem to figure it out.
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2008 Suzuki Grand Vitari V6 4WD. What could be causing a harmonic noise upon reaching 50 to 60 mph? It is intermittent and can last for hours on a long trip. It doesn't matter if AC is on. It sounds like a piece of plastic is stuck in the air vents, a high pitch.
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How to remove a harmonic balancer from a straight 8 Buick engine. There are no bolt holes on the balancer to use a standard balancer removal tool. I was able to remove the center bolt. I removed the center bolt then threaded it back in a couple of threads and tried using my hydraulic gear puller with the center of the puller on the bolt. I got it to move off about 3/16" but then it stopped. Right now I have the hydraulic puller still on under tension and am periodically spraying it with screw loose hoping it may pop off. I need to know if this will work or if I am fighting against the puller now.My 42 to 47 Buick manual does't give any info on removing the balancer.
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I have a wobbly crank pulley and I am wondering how ofter the harmonic balancer should be replaced? I have about 125000miles on my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 and I have heard this is an issue around 100000. Also wondering how much it would cost to replace?
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I have been stuck at the tail end of the head gasket job on my 97 B2300. I have been working every day, so I haven't been able to get to this until today. The harmonic balancer seems to be stuck and I can't get it off. Regular 3 jaw pullers won't work (tried 4, rented one from the parts store that didn't work either) and tapping it from the back side while rotating the engine isn't working either. The pullers keep slipping off because the of the pulley's front ridge being slightly larger in diameter than the rest of the balancer.
Is there some kind of special puller that I don't know about? I don't want to be too rough with it as it seems no one carries this particular balancer if I happen to break it. Side question..... I was told that the crank/cam seals will also work on the oil pump as they are the same size. True? I happen to have 3 seals and wouldn't mind changing the oil pump seal as a precaution. (note this is a later 2.3 with a timing belt driven oil pump)
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I have a 2000 2.5 and need to remove the harmonic balancer. Are the threads righty tighty or lefty loosey.I'm replacing the timing belt and pulley
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I just replaced a 2005 with a 2012. The 2005 was dead quite during slow movement and parking while the 2012 hums. At first I thought the hum was a rubbing noise but on closer listen it sounds like a metallic harmonic vibration. It reminds me of the sound of rubbed crystal glass except lower in tone with metallic undertones. It is audible from outside the car or when the windows are down. It does not appear to be associated with movement as it comes and goes during the three point manuever required to park under the carport. Is this is normal or I am heading back to the dealer?
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