Golf IV R32 :: 2008 - Car Stalls Out When About To Accelerate
Aug 10, 2014
So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks it's had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ). I believe the relays where the ECM is what he said number 249 I believe.
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2008 golf city... So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks its had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ) I need it fixed. I believe the relays where the EMC is what he said number 249 I believe.
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This evening, after not driving my car for a couple of days, I tried to start it and got the check engine light, triangle with exclamation point, and car symbol with exclamation point. It seemed to start, then shuddered and stalled. I was able to get it going by immediately putting it in drive and driving before it had a chance to stall. Then while driving, stepping on the accelerator did nothing- like no gas was getting through yet the car was still moving ahead. I quickly returned home and checked Prius Chat for advice.
I checked the throttle body, which was not stuck, but did see a tiny pool of oil in the bottom. I then started it in the driveway and the tiny pool of oil disappeared and it stayed running. I then took it out for another drive and it ran fine and accelerated normally.
All the warning lights are still on though, and I will try and get the codes read tomorrow or the next day.
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2004 Nissan sentra 36,000 miles, stalls when it rains after I stop for a red light or a STOP sign. While pumping the gas, I have to wait a minute or more before it accelerates and moves. It is an automatic. I had a mechanic check the spark plugs and sensor codes. All checked out okay. Car drives fine in dry weather, no stalling. Bought used from out of town.Mechanic told me to bring it in when it rains. But that's not safe, because it will stall. Could moisture, humidity, or air pressure affect sensors?
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I have a 92 Ford Thunderbird and it stalls every time I accelerate from a stop. I am a single parent and extremely low on funds. I don't have a mechanic that I trust so I don't know where to turn. How much do you think it would cost to repair? I also struggle when I don't have a car. There is no public transportation close to where I live.
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Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
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I had a question about a weird symptom that my 2008 BMW 528i is having. When I take my foot off the gas pedal when I'm going 10-30 mph, the car seems to brake/stall momentarily. It almost feels as if the car is jerking for half a second. If I slowly let off the gas pedal this doesn't happen. It also doesn't happen at high mph.
My dealer said this is normal but I have never experienced this in all my time driving a Tacoma or accord. Wondering what could possibly be wrong with the car.
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We have a 2008 Toyota Sequoia with 60k miles. We purchased 100k mile warranty when we bought the car new. The past year or so, the car will stall just after starting. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it (hot, cold, morning, day, night, etc.). It will stall after starting and won't start after several attempts. You wait approximately 10 minutes and it will start just fine. This happens about 2x monthly, sometimes more sometimes less. Toyota has no idea what it is, they tried cleaning up the carbon buildup.
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My F-150 has started acting up again. About 2 months ago it randomly stalled a few times and I narrowed it down to the Fuel pump driver module which was band and I have since replaced. Truck ran fine up until the middle of this past week. Now it runs good at idle, but as soon as I put it into reverse, the engine stalls. I do know that my 4x4 isnt engaging due to a suspect vaccum leak. Could a vacuum leak be causing the stalling as well. The 4x4 not locking in issue predated the stalling issue.
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I get this burning smell when i accelerate all the way and it does not smell like gas, I don't know what it is. When I drive normally it's fine. When I stop flooring it, it stops to smell burnt. There's no engine light or anything either. I went to the dealer and asked around some mechanics and they can't find anything wrong.Its a 2008 with 133k miles and i just got it.
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I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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Now that summer is here the AC is in use. So the procedure is turn on engine let it run for one minute or a few minutes then turn on the AC. When I turn on the AC almost all the time the engine stall. It does not die but it stall really bad. Is fine after that at stop light and in traffic. Not sure what to make of it.
Camry 2008 4 cyl auto.
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I own a 2008 Honda Fit 5sp manual with 95,000 miles and have had noticed that the car will stall in cold weather. When stopping, I push the clutch in and take my foot off the gas to apply the brake. When the car stops the rpms go to zero and the car stalls. It has no problem starting again but will do this consistently until the engine is hot. It has also stalled on particularly cold/rainy days while the car is moving (over 30mph).
I can prevent the car from stalling by revving the engine, but I would need a third foot to do this while stopping. The check engine light is off. I took it to the dealer who has not been able to reproduce the problem and says it's operator error that is causing the engine to stall.
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My daughter's 2008 Elantra starts fine and seems to be idling okay. But recently at seemingly random times the car will stall within a few yards after she starts driving from a cold start. She will start the car, start to drive and then all of the dash lights come on and the engine shuts off. So far she has been able to turn the key and immediately restart the car and then it is fine after that. The problem always seems to occur after she has driven somewhere, let the car sit for a couple hours and then tries to drive again. We took to our mechanic and they said there are no diagnostic codes and the fuel pressure seems good. They did identify some kind of voltage drop/issue with the mass airflow sensor and replaced it. But a day later the problem occurred again. Mechanic seems stumped. I'm very worried about my teenage daughter driving a car that randomly stalls.
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I have a 2008 dodge avenger that stalls without warning while I am driving. It happens without any warning signs, happens when I am driving and also when I stop the car. The dealer can't find a thing wrong with it. What's wrong with it? It starts right up after this happens and they tell me my vin number isn't part of a recall for a problem that I have read that other people have with their 2008 avengers.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Runs great, except for the last two months, every time I fill it with gas, it tries to stall out when I start it. Once I get it running for a minute or so, it is fine until the next time I fill it with gas. Tried filling it with premium gas a few times to see if that made a difference...it didn't. Took it to my mechanic; he said the car was fine. This only happens at the gas pump and no other time.
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I changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
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Have a 2004 Fx4. Lately its been shaking violently when i accelerate. When I turn the overdrive off it stops.
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I've got a lifted 2006 F150 crew cab lariat and I understand mileage is poor 10-11 per mile. 35" tires under a pro comp 6" lift. I have changed out my plugs twice last year and am still very under powered. What else can i do? I also have a clunk when i accelerate, sound like the rear end or drive line possibly. Had my transfer case replaced recently by ford and don't remember the noise prior.
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Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
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I have an 04 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 v8 and it has 125k miles on it. This morning I was driving to work and when I was going down the express way it cut out for about 2 seconds then power slowly came back after about 5 seconds, when it happens I'm either cruising or accelerating lightly. Also when it first cuts out, my headlights flicker, and when I got off the expressway and was almost to work the truck stalled completely after I stopped it started up and I was able to get to work.
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