On the way home this evening the car just dropped revs and stalled. I pulled to the side of the road and tried to restart the car. The car started, idle for a second, then bogged and stalled again. I am leaning towards my MAF and the same thing occurs every time I try to start it. Only mods are flapper and APR 93oct tune.
I do have a drop in and have a feeling I screwed my MAF w/ the oiled filter.
My VAG-COM is down, so I haven't had the chance to scan and see what the code is that I'm assuming got stored, but here's what happened today:
Driving constant speed about 75mph with cruise control on, traveling on level ground. Road began to have a slight incline up a long gradual hill. EPC flashed and car dropped out of cruise control.
I manually accelerated up to speed again and reset CC. No further weirdness, but that's never happened to me before, and it's on a road I used to travel 6 days a week.
I was replacing my air filter the other day and pressed a bit too hard on the 10mm bolt, forcing the captive nut on the other side to drop out of its pressing and to be lost forever.
View 14 RepliesLast wednesday when I was on my way home, the car felt like it lost power and the RPMs dropped, I keep on driving until I got home, I let the car cool off for a few minutes then I tried to start it and it wouldn't, after a few tries the car started and then died.
I didn't take it to the dealer because it was kinda late but I called and made an appointment for the next day, I ended up not taking in the car since it ran good all day and I know they don't do nothing unless they can replicate the problem, now this morning the car started acting again and it smells like gas inside the cabin and weird noises are coming from the gas tank filler neck.
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Today I noticed an anomaly with the fuel gauge in my 2010 TDI Golf. While driving along the fuel gauge dropped down to empty. But there were no other indicators and the engine kept running. I had filled up with diesel about 10 miles prior and had stopped and started the car a couple of times since. I went on to my next stop (after another 4 miles or so) and then restarted the car with no issues and the fuel gauge was back to normal.
View 1 RepliesI have an 05 Prius that I bought used. It has 59K miles on it. Recently I took it to the dealer for an oil change. They told me it didn't need an oil change, but did need an air filter. Afterwards, the mileage dropped from about 47 around town to about 42. Had the oil changed a week later, and the mileage is now about 40 around town. The dipstick when cold shows a little above the full mark.
View 15 RepliesSo I met my wife after work. I was killing some time with my son. We drove across the street, then to a neighboring shopping center. I changed the display to see the more accurate instant MPG and noticed my battery was at 2 bars. This is the first time that's happened, that I'm aware of. During normal operation, it stays at 2 bars above the halfway mark, or above.
View 6 RepliesWe picked up our 2009 prius about a month ago from a local dealer. At the time it was getting about 52 miles per gallon. Since then, we have driven about 1000 miles and now we are getting only about 41 miles per gallon. Are we doing something wrong that made the MPG drop over 10 miles per gallon.
View 6 Replies My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
Started my car late morning, less than 24 hrs after buying it..it had been sitting for maybe 12 hrs. After it started, I sat there a minute figuring out a stereo thing...it died, stalled. I thought to myself 'ok maybe I was in gear and took my foot of the clutch (last three years driving smg)'. Started it, backed out, forgot about it.
After dinner tonight, started it...few seconds later it stalled out again. Again I thought maybe it was in gear and I eased off the clutch...made sure it was in neutral, started it again, arched the tach drop down a bit..stalled.
I couldn't get it to repeat a third time tonight, on the third it started and stayed. Nor did it happen 10 mins later. So I'll let it sit overnight pay close attn tomorrow and test. It seems to have to do with 'cold starts' if you can call them that...I mean..it was 96f tonight when this happened.
Any thoughts? I'm hoping it's something to do with being new and growing pains..but that have this happen on 2 diff occasions in the first 36 hrs is very concerning to me given my past vw experiences years ago.
Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
I have noticed a significant (15 to 20%) drop-off in mpg in the last 6 months or so. My 2006 prius at 95,000 miles is just short of the warranty on the battery pack. I brought it into the dealership and they ran the routine computer diagnostics and said everything looks good. I fully expected them to tell me that the performance on the battery pack had fallen off, so I was a bit put out. The guy actually got a bit defensive with me when I asked him some further questions about what the criteria are for determining whether the battery back was performing as it is supposed to in order to get the maximum MPGs.
View 3 RepliesI have GX470 2007 (100k miles) and last weekend I noticed that I drove 60 miles (on streets) and gas needle was down to 1/2 of tank. When I went to gas station to fill up, I was able to get only 5 gallons and tank was full. I drove another 45 miles (on the highway), and needle already was down to 3/4 of tank. I did not have this in the past. I was getting 12-14 miles / gallon on the street and 20 - 21 miles / gallon on the high way.
View 6 RepliesI recently got my 2007 Prius back from the body shop after a 13k repair following a crash that crumpled my front end. The car seemed to be doing fine, until a long, steep climb had the battery drop to one bar, speed dropping to 40 despite a floored accelerator, and a red triangle that appeared briefly before disappearing just as we completed the climb. It's the dropping speed despite a floored accelerator and the warning light that have me worried.
View 19 RepliesToday I went to the national car test (passed. but), when the car has been returned to me by the employee of national car test center I noticed one bar on the SOC. This happened for the first time.
Additional notes:
1) recently (about 4 weeks ago) I had to temporarily replace for second hand (20 bucks) 12v small auxiliary battery.
2) recently (withing last four weeks) I noticed high temperature in the boot compartment, I tried to investigate and the ducting leading from the HV battery was really hot, which means that my battery was really hot too.
I tried to explain this to myself that this might be due to HV operating at higher levels due to unknown state of the replaced 12v small aux battery (second hand product).
3) Today I noticed that technician at the test center used some spring assisted bar to press the brake on the car while he tested the car, I recon that maybe he have had powered off the car while doing so, is it possible that this might have contributed to the dropped SOC ?- it's just my guess.
I'm thinking to replace 12v aux battery to brand new battery and then test the operation of the fan and whether the temperature still rise. - is it good idea? Or should I just seek for the testing tool to determine the status of each of the modules?
If so, which testing device can handle this task? I heard from this forum about ELM obd bluetooth adapter. I use android device, would this be okay or should I look for another device perhaps scangauge?
I used to get 55-58 MPG when my commute was 65 miles one way, 85% freeway. But these days I noticed that when AC runs hard and trips typically 16 miles, 40 MPH, mpg dropped to 42-45. That worried me a little bit.
Driving style: conservative. I start off normally, but I use N gear as soon as passing speed limit. (this factor alone should enhance mpg by 10 I guess. I used this technique on my 98' Lexus LS400, 4 Ltr V8 engine, once got 38 mpg on freeway, while the sticker says 18/25). This is the main reason I worry that something is wrong with my prius.
Typical range: 16 miles, all local.
Tire pressure: 40 psi
AC runs hard, outside temp 90 degrees, I set temp to 72 inside. (I guess this is the main reason for mpg drop, but I don't think it should drop that much)
I recently changed oil and trans oil.
My battery is a little bit weak, but no warning light. If I forget to turn off head lights, it needs jump in 10 minutes.
Mileage is 143K, 2004 model.
Water pump changed by Toyota free of charge.
Any clue? or it sounds normal and I don't need to worry about it?
So my girlfriend drives a 2010 gti with DSG trans. Recently she was pulling out of a driveway onto a main road when her car basically stalled out and shut off on her. This has only happened the one time, but where she was pulling out was onto a 45 mph rd, pretty scary place to shut down.
I had her take it to the dealer and they found no faults and said her software and everything is up to date. She keeps up with her maintenance.. It's certainly concerning knowing that this could happen and can't be reproduced at the dealer to diagnose.
Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
I have an issue with the 02 1.8t (wife has an issue). We recently took our car in to get some service work done and the mechanic informed me that he thinks the tranny is starting to go and just baby it....Fast forward a month the wife is driving the car, she said at around 40mph 2k RPM and the RPMs just drop after hearing a screeching/grinding noise....
Then she tried to apply throttle and it redlined...She said it would shoot up in RPM and not go over 30mph, she used the triptonic to get home and was able to get up to 45..Sat for a bit and I drove it, everything seemed ok..Shifts good, stops fine, no weird noises, etc....
Car is a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/ 148k miles, regularly maintained, never had tranny oil flushed..
Today the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
Recently (5 weeks ago), my 2004 Jetta misfired, which caused the car to shake very noticeably, especially at lower speeds or while idling. The misfire was accompanied by the smell of fuel on the driver side and triggered the check engine light to flash. I took it to the shop (a VW dealer). They ran diagnostics, found it signaled a misfire (but no other major issues/sensors) and told me it was due to the spark plugs/wires. I was dubious, as they were not too old, but I allowed them to replace them anyway, as they assured me this would fix the problem.
Just this week, however, another misfire occurred, also accompanied by the smell of fuel and shaking. This time, the check engine light remained on (constant) for 2 days, and on the third day, it was off. I brought it back to the same shop to try to figure out the real cause of the misfire, which obviously was not the previous spark plugs. My city gas mileage has also decreased over the past month - down to about 20-21 mpg from 23-24. What could be causing such a reoccurring misfire without signaling an issue with a sensor or other part?