Looking for some detailed instructions on how to change the engine mount on the driver's side on 2004 r32. My mechanic will work on it but he mentioned that he might have to drop the transmission but I thought that this is not necessary.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
View 4 RepliesI have burnt driver side H4 light but am not able to change it. After turning the rubber dust cover it comes loose but is stuck somewhere (in the middle) and won't come out. The power connector is disconnected.
I don't want to force it out so is there a trick for this? The metal pin is still holding the bulb in.
Is it a big operation to take the whole sealed beam (is that right word for it? The whole front light box I mean) off so I could take a better look. There is not too much space behind the fuse box.
When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
I have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
I've got this clunky sound I am narrowing down to the drivers side body mount. The stock one has lasted 11 years. But I'm reading thread after thread about stock replacements lasting a year or so before crapping out again. I've found a few people mention the energy suspension lot, or another one that has Kevlar (daystar iirc). I googled them and found a handful of super duty owners who used the poly mounts complaining about harshness and vibration transmitted to the cab.
My truck is my dd and with my new highway tires and stock exhaust it's as quiet as it ever has been and that makes me and the family happy on long trips. I don't want to do anything to ruin that.
I was sitting at the stoplight in neutral when the light turned green. I pushed in the clutch and put the car in first then all of a sudden a huge CLUNK like when you take out the starter bolt without supporting the trans or motor. Then while letting out the clutch about halfway all hell broke loose. It sounded like a bunch of marbles rattling like crazy in the trans. I pushed the clutch back in then it stops until you let it back out again. The car still moves forward and reverse but with all that noise. The sound seems like it's coming from under the driver side motor mount. When I put my hand on the tranny I can feel the vibrations very well. Does this sound like the throw out bearing?
View 3 RepliesNeed recommendation for replacement body mount bushing. Surprised to see the drivers side shredded. Poly replacement?
View 14 RepliesWhat hardware I need to install the passenger side motor mount spacer from Euro Image Tuning. Been sitting on it for a while and cant find the hardware that it came with. Would like to install it, but dont remember what it came with..
View 2 RepliesWell about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesSo I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
View 1 RepliesI had the struts replaced a few months ago along with the strut mounts and bearings. Since then I've developed a popping and clunking noise from the passenger side spring/mount area. I've greased it and it has quieted it down but I noticed that when the car is not moving and I turn the wheel from lock to lock that very top piece of the strut pretty sure it's called the hat moves along with the wheels while the drivers side does not. What's wrong? Is it something as simple as the nut being to lose or to tight?
View 3 RepliesI have a crack in the driver side taillight in my 2003 VW passat GLX wagon. I opened the panel in the rear where the audio amplifier seems to be located. I can find 3 nuts to remove for the taillight and that seems to have loosened up the assembly. There seems to be a fourth fastening point. However, I can't find it. I can't seem to remove the black amplifier rack to get a better view.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2011 Gti (31k miles, dsg) has developed a bad rattle vibration at idle. It goes away when you press on the gas. At first first I thought it was just a bit of plastic rattling in the wheel well or engine bay, but now I'm suspecting the engine. It's coming from the drivers side and it sounds like the 'TSI rattle' turned up to 11. It's intermittent, but worse when it's cold.
Engine mount? Chain guides going going bad? I will try to get a video of the sound today.
I've had this weird noise coming from the driver side front (i'm guessing inside the engine bay) for the past month now. It started ever since hitting a bad pothole that wasn't avoidable and couldn't see very well during one of the nasty winter storms we got here in PA. Ever since the steering has felt off, like just not all there anymore. Over the smallest of bumps it makes this noise. Extremely aggravating for me since I try to take great care of the car and keep everything tight and new feeling. Since I don't know how to work on newer cars (only mk3 and lower) I have no clue what to do to check... I've had it at the dealership a few times to report the noise, 2 of the times they just took it for a drive around the area and back and each time the tech said he didn't hear a noise (of course).
Roughly 15k miles on the car currently
Noise started around 12-13k
Also recently noticed that only coming from the same side, the shock over big bumps makes squishy noises, as if it were blown or something...
People have suggested that it could be the sway bar, tie rods, end links, bushings, anything. I personally think it's the strut tower bushing or bearing, but again, I'm not much of a newer car mechanic.
Pics of car ...
Just took my r on its first road trip. About 1k miles straight. Reached the destination and I noticed smoke coming from the drivers side wheel well. Popped the hood and seems to have com from the rear of the engine. It dissipated fast. 15k on the odometer.
View 13 RepliesI seem to be leaking coolant, its not coming from the radiator, and all my hoses seem to be okay as well. I removed the airbox, the leak is on the drivers side by the engine. Where this leaking might be coming from?
View 5 RepliesI need to change the all support mount motor of my Camry 2003 v2.4l. but I don't know where find the best model or manufacturer.
View 2 RepliesYesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
I have a 03 sc430 will a stuck climate control. I can change the temp on the passenger side, but the drivers side is stuck on 65! and its cold here!!!!
View 9 RepliesThis past weekend, however, I took it out on the highway and found it has a pretty bad vibration. The vibration is coming from the body, not the steering wheel, so i initially suspected the real wheel balance. Next I varied my speed betwn 50-75 mph expecting to feel the vibration intensity vary, but it did not. While doing that however I realized that when I let off the throttle, the vibration stops. Given it some gas and it comes right back.
I got off the highway and pulled in to a parking lot. Driving at parking lot speeds, accelerating or not, there is no vibration. Come to a stop either in gear or neutral, and the engine is rock solid steady. Then got back on the local streets and the vibration returned but only while accelerating, even gently.
At this point I should mention that we replace a bad motor mount a yr and a half ago when we bought the car, the upper passenger side. The mount damage was easily so it was an easy diagnose. Replacing it eliminated the vibration the car had at the time. We had also planned to replace the lower rear mount at the same time but the one we bought was defective, and the one we removed from the car looked fine, so we put it back in.
So now I am wondering if the rear mount has failed, but it is not possible to see the rubber unless you removed it. Could it be an issue with the engine itself, or do all these symptoms point to the mount?