My 04 .:R temp is going up when I sit at idle for a few minutes. The low and high speed fan are working, I just check to make sure that they were. The temp goes up then the high speed fans kick on. A few minutes the fan kick off then the temp drops. The stat isn't more then a year old.
View 1 RepliesSo it is no secret that our fans go out and need to be replaced.
There are suppose to be two temperature thresholds, the first at which the fans turn on at LOW speed, then another higher threshold where the fans turn to HIGH speed.
My fans basically only kick in at the higher temp threshold and into HIGH, the cooling system is skipping over the LOW threshold and fan speed.
Would this be an issue with the fans or the controller?
Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
View 8 RepliesDoes the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
View 11 RepliesMy Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
View 5 RepliesCar started idling all weird this evening, rising and falling when at a stop light. Car APR Stg 2+. Found the fault code above. I changed the map back to stock and cleared the code and it still does it. I let the car sit for like 30 minutes and started it up again and it sounds even worse like it wants to stall. I did a few google searches and it seems that it could be a faulty PCV or throttle body. How should I proceed? I'm thinking change the PCV and if the problem is still there it's a potentially larger issue.
View 11 RepliesYesterday when I started my car the coolant temp was near 100 (from a previous drive several hours prior) and it was over 80 degrees outside, yet the car went into high idle mode as though it was cold outside. It does this sometimes, but not always, and if I dont let it idle down and just start driving, it'll stay in high idle for a long time (i.e. even after a couple miles of driving, if I put it in neutral it'll rev back up to high idle).
Air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are working properly, but it doesn't seem like a normal thing to do, but its done it for years. Anything else that might cause it, or any way to stop it?
I have an 01 mailibu that keeps overheating. I have replaced the water pump (twice) and had the thermostat replaced. The water pump and thermostat were replaced about a month ago. Last night while driving, i noticed the temp getting higher, so I turned on the heat, and instead of hot air, it was ice cold. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2014 elantra limited and have noticed heater issues. The heat never gets hot until the temp is set to higher levels. For example 25c /77 f is just lukewarm I need to set the temp up as high as 28c/82f or higher to get decent heat. Anything below 24c is like having the air conditioning on. It also seems to fluctuate at time, blowing warmer air and then turning cold. Coolant is topped up, no visible leaks i.e., nothing on the garage floor.
View 7 RepliesI have a 77 F100 2wd 302/c4. I recently replaced the rear plate to my gauge cluster after it crumbled to pieces. I swapped all the gauges to the new plate minus the fuel gauge since it decided it couldn't live if livin was without the old plate. I have a gauge cluster out of my 75 and decided to swap in my fuel gauge from that one. I put the cluster in the truck and fire it up for 10 mins or so and everything is working great except the temp gauge isn't moving. I figure it romeo and Juliet with the fuel gauge so I just swap all gauges from the 75 into the 77 cluster except the speedo. Same result.
So I figure its the sending unit now and maybe both gauges were fine to begin with. I put in a new sending unit and now the gauges works but the needle sits on the P in the word TEMP on the gauge which makes me uncomfortable. That's about 1/4 inch or so from being past the end of the gauge. I don't believe the truck is running that hot. The gauge was more or less straight vertical before the swap sitting right at the end of the E on TEMP. Did I get a bad sending unit? Is it a bad ground on the gauge? Was I supposed to take off the teflon tape that came on the threads of the sending unit? I'm gonna try removing that first and see if it lowers the needle.
I got a mk4 where the temp gauge starts to climb to 3/4 instead of halfway when I'm idling for a while.
1. fans don't come on
2. if I turn on ac, fan come on and temp stays at 1/2
I tested low and high speed on fans. both operational. Is it the fan control module, temp sensor green top, or radiator s/w?
I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
View 2 RepliesMy temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
View 1 RepliesTruck has an SCT tune from Innovative Diesel.
View 6 RepliesAt idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
View 7 RepliesWell, I'm still driving the same old 1998 Honda Civic DX two-door coupe, and I've got a problem with overheating. The temperature gauge needle doesn't get quite to the red, but it's popping up higher than usual, and I'm concerned to see it getting anywhere near the red. It usually spikes when I get off the highway and stop at a light, but it also does it occasionally in a drive thru, and recently, I discovered that when I give it a little gas in neutral, it brings the temperature gauge needle down to normal.
Here is the history of recent repairs and troubleshooting:
-About 3-4 years ago, I had a leaky radiator replaced, so the one that is in there isn't very old.
-Last year I had a mechanic replace the thermostat, the radiator fan, and the radiator cap when I started having this problem.
-A few months ago, I had the timing belt serviced (the entire kit, not just the belt), but since the water pump looked fine and the car has so much mileage (275,000 miles), I opted not to replace the water pump. (I regret that now. I usually replace the water pump with every other timing belt, but I've learned my lesson.)-I've been to several shops to get a diagnosis, but they have a hard time getting it to overheat at all, so they can't diagnose it.
One guy suggested the water pump might be worn out (inside, without leaking outside). Another guy suggested that "if it was the water pump, you would know it's the water pump." Each mechanic has done a pressure test on the cooling system and a flow test on the radiator, and they all say they are fine. One mechanic theorized that I might have a very small head gasket leak, but nobody else thinks that is the case and there is no sign of coolant and oil mixing. Besides, the temperature gauge has never been in the red.
-One mechanic who tried to diagnose the problem recommended replacing the plugs, plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap. After doing that, it is running better than it was, but that didn't resolve the overheating problem. He also retarded the spark timing, but it is self-adjusting, so it re-advances itself after a couple days of driving. I can hear what sounds like minor knocking, but it's always made that noise since it was new.
-Everyone who has tried to diagnose the problem says the thermostat is opening and closing as it should, and the radiator fan comes on and shuts off when it should.
I'm done getting second and third opinions, and I'm ready to start throwing parts at it. Do you think I should start with the water pump? What are your thoughts? Don't tell me to replace the car. I just bought a new motorcycle.
I have a 2004 VW Jetta 1.8T , what the normal coolant temperature should be?
View 1 RepliesOk, so I'm getting the typical P2181 Cooling system performance. So i replaced my t-stat and ect sensor but no change. When i'm looking at my mvb's in 01 and 17 they're reading the same. I check my hose temp and both upper and lower are similar in heat. I can watch the temp rise in the mvb's till the fans kick on and the temp will drop.
Now, at start up it'll literally take about 9-12 min to warm up in this 20 degree weather. I was driving home tonight and got off I-5 and at the light with the heat on I watched the temp gauge drop from operating temp to almost the notch above cold, and I could feel the heat cool down coming out of the vents.
I was experiencing a slight under hood rattle when ever the ICE would kick in at approximately idle. It would go away if the pedal was depressed beyond the point that the eco light would go off. After scouring the internet, no good answer came up. So I checked under the hood just to see what was going on. Simplest fix ever, the stick that props the hood open had become unsecured. Snapped it back into place and voila, back to normal.
View 3 RepliesOver the last 30 days or so my 2005 Town car has been acting up when I start it when shes cold. She would normally rev at a higher rpm when cold and then idle down when she warmed up.
I have checked the throttle plate, replaced the throttle position sensor and checked for vacuum leaks. Is there a specific sensor that I should change out in my process of elimination?