Golf IV R32 :: 2004 GTI - Axles Rubbing On Sway Bar
Nov 19, 2010
I got an 2004 gti.... I just dropped it and.. I was having rubbing issues with the sway bar and the axles.. i got adjustable links but its still rubbing.. so my question is.. should i get a new sway bar if so what size? or should i just take it out completely.. or will it not be good if i take it out...
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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I recently lowered my mk4 golf with coilovers, now the sway bar is rubbing on the right driveshaft axle... could I just get a small diameter driveshaft instead of getting sway bars? My driveshift is about 2 inches wide...
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I lowered the car on H&R sport Springs with Koni Yellows. On the front right, the sway bar is rubbing the axle under heavy compression (pot hole, sharp dip, bridge joints, etc) and is rubbing the lower control arm (opposite direction) on the driver's side... I got an alignment when I lowered it and it was "within specs"...
I put on adjustable sway bar end links and lengthened the passenger side 1/4" and shortened the drivers side 3/8". left side is slightly better but right side seems almost worse... all rubbing was minimal (barely through the paint on the cast iron parts and nearly no marks on the axle... both strut bearings are new. is it possible that it could be the alignment? Just seems odd to me that the sway bar end links need to be varied lengths to clear....
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When I start moving in either direction I get this horrible sound front the axles. I think. They click and just sound bad. I also have some squeaks front the front end too. Tomorrow I am going to take a video and post it on here. The car is lowish, top of tire is even with the fender. Could the axles be binding because they are too long?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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My rear differential has an oily film around the area where the axles exit the differential. The oil is not dripping, no oil puddles - it is a film of oil with road dirt stuck to it. You can wipe your finger on it and it looks like black grease on your finger. Is this film normal? The dealership says it's normal. I say it should be dry.
By the way, 10,000 miles ago I had a similar symptom and the same dealer (different technician, advisor and service manager) relaced the axle seals under warranty. The new guys say VW will only replace the seals if it is dripping. It was not dripping the last time they fixed it. Now they say they cannot support a repair. Car still has drivetrain warranty.
Two weeks ago I changed my own oil as part of the 40K service. I told them that I saw the weeping axles at that time.
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I just had both axle's replaced. Looked for OEM but couldn't find availability so I went with FAQ. Just had a local shop do the work. When I got my car back I've noticed that at idle I can feel some vibration. The noise is really subtle but if I rest my foot on the pedals I can feel it through the pedal. I'd describe it as a revolving sound, almost like it's coming from moving parts, although I'm at idle.
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Looking to get a set of VWracing springs but wondering if there is a way to pull the front struts without having to pull the axles out?
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Posted a while back about a rattling/clunking noise coming from my front suspension. Since my car had nearly 100k miles on it and was still all stock, I went through and replaced ever single part of the front suspension. (Control arms, ball joints, got some Koni coil overs, strut mounts, sway bar end links, swar bar bushings). Turns out the noise wasn't actually related to the suspension. I've got massive play in both of my front axles. They make horrible rattling/clunking noises going over any sort of bump, even the REALLY small ones.
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1 my axles look like there rusting in the middle like the plastic coating came off is that normal??
2. 1st all fluid change should I let the dealer do it or go it myself asking is it kinda easy or a dyi I'm off the 3rd week in April so I would have time. but I'm a novice at best at wrenching
3. any way to see if I have a chip or Programed ECU
4. not sure this make a difference but if I jack both wheels in the air and spin one the other wheels does not move is that normal ( well it moves like less than a inch)
5. I just got a Ross tech cable what are some must do's
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I have a 2003 GX 470, the air suspension often deflates to axles and stays there. Ride is unbearable, I removed the rear height sensors and used an ohmeter to test them and they seem to be working fine (ohms change as I move the pivot arm, goes from 423 ohms to 3.3 K full stroke on both sensors) It will deflate to axles and there are no flashing lights and the manual height switch doesn't do anything when I push it, it just stays in N. Every few days the suspension will start working and air up and ride fine. What else could it be besides sensors or is it the sensors even though they seem to be working fine. Could it be an adjustment on sensors. Where is the height control exhaust valve located? Once it airs up to normal can I just disconnect the exhaust valve so it cant deflate?
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2004 xlt scew 5.4 Have a noise when rear axles goes over bumps no noise when front end goes over them. Sounds like a piece of wood bounceing in the back when going over rail way tracks. its not a metal on metal sound.
Cant find any thing broken or loose. I know if the spare is loose it will make that sound but its tight. What could be loose.?? Heat shields all seem tight.
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I have a 2005 f150 and it will not engage the front hubs. It is a manual shift on the fly not electric. I have done some checking and this is what i have found so far. Pull the lever into 4H, dash light comes on, IWE's do not lock onto axle. Same for 4L. The transfer case does come in when lever is pulled into either 4H or 4L. Front end up on jack stands, engine off. Turn either wheel and axle turns with it as it should. Start engine, turn either wheel and it is free from axle, as it should be. so there is vacuum going to IWE when engine is on. Not sure what to check next. Is the vacuum solenoid on the firewall bad?? Is there something not getting activated when i pull the floor lever back?
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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So I recently installed a GTI sway bar on my 2010 TDi and was getting a clunking noise. I assumed that it would be the subframe making noise since I've read a lot about that but the sway bar is actually rubbing on the front portion of subframe (the part that bolts to the frame directly above the A-arm). It's hardly touching it but its enough to wear into the bar.
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I installed my coil overs this weekend and it took some work to get my passenger side sway bar end link on. It was too short it seemed.the mod ts on the coil overs are I. The same place on both front coil overs. I had to put A LOT of force to get it on there. I'm wondering if other have had this issue and or what did you do? Is it putting a lot of stain on the sway bar or end link. By the way its the stock sway bar as well.
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I'm pretty certain that my 22mm neuspeed sway bar bushings are shot. they squeak like crazy and when I looked at them to grease them up it looked like they had space, oh and they knock like crazy. Any better source or place to check locally? Would Napa carry something like this? and is Poly my only option? would a rubber bushing wear quicker?
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I'm going to have my front sway bar mounting bushings replaced with poly bushings next week. Shop said they wanted to order 19mm bushings for my car, but everything I see online says its a 21mm bushing. Which is correct? It's a 2004 R32.
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I have an 04 SE with 3.3. It hit a curb hard last year. With all new parts on the front right corner, including a strut. The car would sway in all directions after the repair. I got it aligned and all was in spec except the rear strut was bent causing a 3 degree camber difference. I put new struts on all the way around.
I didn' change the front sway bar. Now the rear of car is swaying to the side when I hit a bump. Is that an alignment issue?
Seems like it bangs and bottoms out more so than it should with new struts. Used old springs, but all else on struts is new, insulators, mounts, strut. Used old boots.
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Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
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