Golf IV R32 :: 2004 - CEL Stay On And Got Message - Gas Cap Loose?
Dec 11, 2015
I have a 2004 VW R32 with a stage 2 VF supercharger kit on it. Blower was on the car when I bought it, so don't know who did the installation.
The Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on and stays on. My scanner says that there is an evap code. If I clear the code everything is fine until I have driven a few miles and then I get a "gas cap loose" warning and soon thereafter the CEL lights up.
I can't pass smog here in Reno with the CEL lit. Nobody here seems to have any clue at all. This has been going on for over a year and I am getting pretty desperate. The car is due to be re-registered next month and I can't do that with the CEL lit.
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I was driving home and suddenly the underside of my car *popped* and it sounded like my muffler came loose. Very loud exhaust/turbo whistle.
Luckily I was very close to home and was able to pull in when it completely fell off and started dragging on the street. What part of my exhaust is this and what should I do to repair it?
I just finished fixing a ton of stuff on her and now she does this ?
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The steering on my Mk5 3.2 is feeling a bit loose and disconnected. I'm also coming up on the end of my 40K mile warranty. Is this common to this platform, or are there some end links, etc. that I should have the dealer check out?
Even if it is not a wear issue, what can I do to tighten up steering response and tracking? Ok so further searching with different terms gave me control arm bushings as a possible culprit.
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My 2012 2 door gti's B pillars are very loose. for example, if i reach for the seatbelt and hit them they move alot but they dont come off. On my sisters jetta and my mom's GLI they are very stiff. Are they supposed to be like that?
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I have the euro tails and had the bulb out light on, my local dealer changed the light settings and now the DRL lights are dim and stay on with the headlights also one of my reverse lights stays on when the headlights are on.
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So for the last few days my blinkers have been going crazy. I use them for 1 or 2 seconds and they stay on for 35-40 seconds and go on and off. I am not for sure but they also seem extra loud as well.
I check from the outside of the car and all of the signals seem to work. I know in some cars before your light burns out your blinker will seem to clicker faster but mine is insane.
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So I just bought an .:R and come to find out that the FTP lights in the headlights cant stay on.
They only come on if I push the stalk (same one to use for high beams) towards the wheel and as I let go of the stalk the turn back off. So essentially its like the stalk is just a little switch but they cant stay on with out me holding it in?
I would like to use them as running lights because the PO installed yellow bulbs. He also has a euro switch ???
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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Does the latching mechanism on hatch have a little play in it or is it tight. I would like to get some info before I tear into the hatch trim to see if it needs to be tightened up a bit.
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My R is almost at 70k miles and the front end feels sloppy and loose. What is the best option to restore that new car feel or even get it handling better than stock? I already have United Motorsport strut mounts which definitely improved the handling. ECS has some suspension refresh kits (links below), but the question is which one should I go with? Would the Stage 1 kit with OEM replacements be enough? Or should I go with the Stage 3 with Powerflex bushings? I'm always down for upgrading rather than simply replacing. I'm sure that would get it handling real nice, but would definitely create a stiffer ride, right?
Stage 1 - [URL] ...
Stage 2 - [URL] ...
Stage 2+ - [URL] ...
Stage 3 - [URL] ...
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After driving in heavy snow I noticed a cable hanging loose in a loop under the car in the mid section. What could this be ?
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Recently i noticed that my gear stick is very loose. I have read that this is a problem with the linkage bushes. I have found that the bushes are in the engine bay (3 i think) but i was wondering if there are more bushes under the gear stick that i need to change. Looking for a complete kit for all the parts needed ? Do i have to change something else ?
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Is it possible to rewire the front power outlet so that it shuts off when I turn off the car or remove the key.
All the new cell phone chargers light up and stay lit up when the car is off because the socket is always powered. It bugs me, though, and I'm getting sick of unplugging the charger every time I shut off the car.
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Are the foot well lights supposed to stay on all the time ? Noticed they were on (dim) while driving.
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All of a sudden, my car doesn't like to stay in first gear? I tried to put it into first gear and it wouldn't stay there, it made a grinding noise when I tried to go. So, if I want to start going, I literally have to hold it there to keep it in first gear.
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So I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
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Purchased my '12 R a week ago. It's got 40k on it. I noticed that sometimes after disengaging from first gear, the revs climb and hang around 1500 for around a couple of seconds.
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I replaced my front brakes today and not sure if I got the rattle clip back on right as it seems loose. After driving for a little bit, it seems the clip might be wiggling it self loose.
In addition to this, my brakes sounds terrible. Lots of squeals.
I have replaced many brakes and never ran into this issue before. I cleaned everything up and greased the contact points with brake grease. I then did the bed in process that Hawk recommends for their pads.
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So the driver door handle on the inside is no longer solid... it pulls out about 1/4 inch and pulls everything with it. Is this going to be a major adventure to fix (ie ripping the door apart?) or is it something pretty straight forward?
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Lately and quite randomly while going over bumps I am hearing a noise that sounds like one of my struts is loose. I checked both struts to make sure that they were solid in place and they are. I go over several bumps in my neighborhood and I can hear the noise, but at the same time I went over a speed bump fast and when the car came down there was no noise. Today I put the car in neutral to let it roll and drove over some reflectors with my right tire and the noise was a bit worse. I took it apart again just now and nothing seems out of the ordinary.
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I picked up a new CSG GTI, 6speed with Xenon and Bluetooth on Thursday. Yesterday evening when I got home from work I opened the hood to make sure everything was cool I guess. Then this morning I was going to open it again, and the release inside the car is loose, like it's hardly attached to anything.
MKVI? I know it's probably a cable issue, but it sucks to have to drive back 50 miles to the dealer, 2 days after buying it, because the hood won't open.
Pic: ........
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