Golf IV R32 :: 2003 - Fitting Supercharged Boost Gauge
Apr 1, 2010
I live in Scotland so have a right hand drive 2003 MKIV R32. I got a VF stage 1 kit fitted last year and now I want to fit a boost gauge. I've bought a NewSouth indigo 0-30 psi gauge and a column pod.
What I need to know is where to take the feed from, where is the best place to fit the vacuum tube to get the best readings? any photos would be good.
I plan on fitting it this weekend along with my oil pressure gauge.
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
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I purchased a P3Cars gauge and an analog boost sensor with an ECS boost tap. I seem to be getting some fluttering noise at higher boost (greater than about 15 psi).
It was my understanding that digital boost gauges didn't buzz, so I thought I high have some movement of the boost sensor, hose, or the interface box for the gauge. I've got these pretty well padded and fixed with zip ties.
Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?
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I ordered the gauge kit, installed it with the printed out DIY (CIMs)
Looks great, everything is tight, no leaks. All power going to the gauge (even the dimmer).
When power is connected via the plug in the back of the gauge, the needle goes from -30 to 30, full swing like some newer vehicles, not when the car is turned on.
Here's the problem, is doesnt read anything. Sits at -30 at idle, rev (limiter) and under load. The DIY says it should be somewhere around -20 at idle.
The only thing I can think of is the pressure sending unit is broken. I know faulty equipment is not uncommon and I'm not mad if that is the case as long as it gets resolved, I just want to get this thing working. This is NOT a bash against CIM either, I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea.
Also, I used a forge boost tap. Everything tight, and secure, no leaks going to the filter, or the 4" hose from filter to psi sending unit. Did I miss anything that's not in the write up? Early 11 model DSG MKVI
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I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
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Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
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I have a 2003 jetta 1.8 turbo with a APR chip boosting 21 psi. I have had no problems for the first 5 years or so, but then recently within the last year it started predetonating when I boost over 9 psi, I've tried replacing the injectors, upping the fuel pressure, using 93 octane fuel, (which I always had used anyways) replacing the oxygen sensor and other things to no avail. Also there are no codes regarding this issue stored in the computer.
I highly doubt there is any issues with carbon buildup in the pistons.
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I have a pair of Santa Monica rims on a 2002 2.0l jetta and the ones in the front just don't fit perfectly. The hub seems to not come far out enough for them to stay on it and my steering wheel starts to shake at around 60 mph. I currently have the wheels off for winter but I'd like to know what to do before spring rolls in.
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2003, Jetta 1.8t, 5 speed, 76,500 miles ... The other day I was driving and all of a sudden I had a hesitation in 3rd gear. I have relized since that this hesitation occurs in 3rd 4th and 5th gear, but not 1st or 2nd. I am going to change the spark plugs tomorrow in hope to fix this problem. The hesitation occurs whenever you get into the gas and begin to accelerate(typically around 3000RPM and up). There are no dash lights on at all and the cars is running fine besides the hesitation.
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Well the time has come where I don't like the way my brake lines look running to the back of the truck. Question is, What size are the fittings on the ends of the lines? I know I will have to special order the line that goes from the frame rail down to the rear axle tube, but is the line that goes from there to mid way frame rail a standard size? I don't want to have to order that if I don't have too.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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In my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
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I have recently purchased a c70 t5 which supposedly had been remapped. Anyway this weekend I changed the ICarScan unit and pipework, replaced the turbo vacuum lines and it has had a full service oil,plugs,rotor arm and cap etc. Prior to this it would occasionally pull aggressively and other times not. Now it boost all the time and feels good, however I noticed the boost gauge is now hitting almost 1.5 bar and dropping to about 0.9 bar. What could be causing this. In addition to the above work I removed the nasty badly modified inlet pipe and fitted an original between the air box and turbo. Which connection go where so I can ensure I am correct.
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How accurate is the stock boost gauge on 02 wrx? is it a real boost gauge or is it just for show? 3000gt vr4 has one, but it is not a real one and work with maf sensor only. also is stock bov good for 15-16 psi. we have a stock 02 wrx and we are thinking to up the boost to about 1 bar, but not sure i can trust the stock boost gauge. the car also has catback and cold air intake on it.
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When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
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I just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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