Golf IV R32 :: 02m Clutch Does Not Slip In Any Gear
Oct 11, 2015
So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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So I was on the free way in 6th gear and decided to get on it, the rpm's shot up and I barely picked up speed. It's only a slight clutch slip tho only really noticeable in 6th gear so I was wondering what clutch I should go with because I was planning on going BT eventually.
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Looks like my clutch is starting to slip a bit at ~50K, after a good bit of HPDE track usage over the last few years, and maybe some poor shifting by me. Anyway, want to replace with a stronger aftermarket unit that can stand up to track events, and am planning to go with a lightweight flywheel as well.
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I have a 2010 gti with stage 2 tune, and mk6 clutch starting to slip? i have 30,000 miles, i am starting to do my research on the clutches. I am also looking in to just replacing the clutch disk, and i am wondering it just the clutch disk will hold up?
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I have a 2012 GTi. I just got the stage 2 unitronic flash on my car and now my clutch slips bad. I know i will need to replace my clutch. It was starting to slip before the tune and now it just cant handle it. The shop I went to recommended a South Bend Stage 2 Clutch kit (single mass). Its a daily driver and want something that will last and hold up to 325ftlbs of torque. I do think i want to go with the single mass clutch though.
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Today I parked my golf on the street and it was raining, when I came back to the car after four hours the street had flooded and water was about an inch below the bottom of the door on the driver side, and about an inch (or more) on the passenger side and up to the bottom of the exhaust pipes in the back.
The car started fine, but when I began to drive it the clutch would slip and then bang while engaging. Once I had taken off a few times gently everything smoothed out. Car drives fine and the engine bay was dry when I got home (a 40 minute highway drive). NO water got inside the car at all, so the interior was completely dry, every thing appeared to function perfectly. My question is, assuming just the bottom of the motor, trans, and undercarriage got wet is there anything I should be weary of? Any sensors or electrical things down there? Lights, ac, door locks, everything is working and running fine and dry at this point.
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Recently upgraded to a 2015 DSG PP pearl white 2-door GTI. I'm really enjoying the car. It is my third GTI (MK IV, MK VI) but the first automatic. On the morning commute to work today my DSG straight up stopped working. While trying to accelerate from completely stopped at a stop light my transmission seemed to slip out of gear followed by the engine reving freely... A message appeared to "Press Brake". I had to stop my car in the middle of an intersection and then magically the transmission stuck in gear and i made it to the next stop light. Unfortunately at this light I was never able to get my car back in gear... I tried reverse as well as S mode shifting into 2nd or 3rd.
Had to get towed to the nearest dealership... at least I got to try out the carnet feature . Basically it is a glorified operator who will request a local tow truck for you. FYI.. I thought that the service would at least notify the service dept at the dealer it was being towed to (nope!). 5 hours later they gave me my car back saying that the cable between the ECU and DSG had come loose and that was the only problem.
So far the car seems to be driving like a champ again... I'm just a bit concerned as to how a cable can magically come loose and cause my car to be inoperable. The main reason I upgraded from my 2010 gti was the peace of mind that the car was going to be dependable...
A few questions... Is it feasible that a loose cable was the only issue? If so... how can a cable magically come loose after 2200 miles of driving? I could see this being an issue from the manufacturer but would think it would happen much sooner during the break in process.
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Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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What are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
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Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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I have an '08 Chevy Cobalt with manual transmission with 55,000 miles on it. The clutch is beginning to slip, and is probably going out. What is the life expectancy of a clutch, I thought this seemed kind of short.
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I have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
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I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
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Just bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
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Car: 2012 Mk6 Golf R
Mileage: 43,000 km
Software: UM stage 2 loaded
Related mods:
- diesel geek short shifter
- Emmanuel design, Sachs SRE stage 2 SMf clutch kit
- Tyrol sport deadest rigid collar kit (probably not related)
Background info:
Clutch installed at 40k km.
0-500km stop and go traffic
500-505km punched it bc a 350Z pissed me off*
506-1200km highway and not very aggressive twisters
1200-3000km hwy and city mix
First 0-500km I babied the clutch. No issue
501-505km I punched it a bit hard. Felt great. No issue
506-1200km hwy there, no issue. Closer to the 1200km mark the issue surfaced
1200-3000km was able to repeat the issue and adjusted diesel geek ss and re-bled the clutch in attempt to resolve it
Issue:
- from dead stop, 1st gear gets locked in at 2-4k rpm
- either I rev up beyond 4k, drop below 2k rpm to unlock it
- if I man handle n yank it out of 1st, gears grind
- only happens when the car is fully warmed up and fully running at optimal temperature for at least 10-15 minutes
- diesel geek ss readjustment
- re-bled the clutch (no topping off the clutch lines)
Issue was improved, however, I'm experiencing this locking issue again. Less frequent and less predictable. Attempted to replicate the issue, only happens if it's stop and go traffic-jam speed. Was unable to focus on an rpm range.
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So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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Last couple morning here in Michigan we've seen temps in the low to mid 30's. The last two mornings when I shift between 1, 2 & 3 I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the clutch when engaging the gear. After a few minutes, once it warms up, the clicking goes away.
I am @ stage 1+ W/VWR intake, but I'm not expecting clutch troubles from that.
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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I have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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