Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Remove Immobilizer Induction Ring From Lock Cylinder
May 21, 2015
i have a car with a busted out steering column (drunk PO lost the key and tried to screw driver the ignition to get the steering to turn so he can move the car). i ordered a new key by vin and i managed to find the tumbler casing(damaged) but all the tumblers (still in good shape). i have installed another column in the car now and i pulled the lock cylinder assembly with the immo induction ring out. id like to take the tumbler casing out of the induction ring and put in my old tumblers.
how do you remove the immobilizer induction ring from lock cylinder?
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I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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I tightened the bolt behind the black cap, however, I got a piece in return. Does this have to do with the lock cylinder sliding out on its own?
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Like the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
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How to remove and replace a busted lock cylinder. My wife's car got broken into and used something that punched in the driver's door lock cylinder. VW wants top replace a new lock cylinder. I've been able to remove the drivers door panel but I wasn't able to figure out the final steps.
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How do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
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My car is ''remap'' from 1.4 to 1.8 golf iv.. I think that immobilizer don't work,can I change speedometer from 1.8 gti without make encode the new one? Only to take the new speedometer and fit it on my car.. Also how can I understand if my immobilizer works? I have vag com...
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My buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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So like the title states I have a MK4 VR6 Jetta that was running before I ran into this issue and was idling but wouldn't reach over 2k before sputtering and stopping acceleration and the EPC light would turn on. Now the car starts for a second at a time before dying which to me sounds like the Immobilizer but the vehicle shows no blinking immobilizer code while starting. What I can check to get this straightened out. I miss my VR6 ... I have been thinking it could be:
1) Fuel pump/ Fuel pump relay
2) Ecu Issue
3) Crank/Knock Sensor
I'm just confused because it was throwing no codes before, the temp sensor worked as the car warmed and the only engine light occurred upon reaching operating temp and due to me being catless upon restarting the vehicle it threw an o2 fault code. Just so confused ...
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My one original switchblade is long gone and the other no longer works. It starts the car of course but none of the functions work, battery change did nothing.
Question: Do any other model year keys work with the alarm and immobilizer?
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I am going to remove my Instrument Cluster for an illumination LED changing, to convert them to the white colour. I found out that Immobiliser is located on Instrument Cluster, is there anything I have to be careful?
It's 1999 Bora. I think Immo 2 on it.
I found one Thread that someone had the problem with Immobiliser after cluster removal (it was also for LED job), a car was not starting, he suffered some time tried lots of things, but then everything went OK, even though he wasn't sure what was wrong.
So, do you think there is a high potential risk to take it out? Do you think I have to cut battery connection beforehand?
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Well last night on my way home after work (2:30 AM) I was on the turnpike and puff my car shut down and anti theft immobilizer light started blinking and the car won't start got it tow....
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I have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
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On Friday, all of a sudden I found that I could not use the keyless feature to lock/unlock my car anymore, and when I tried to start the car with the push button, it showed "key not found" "immobilizer activated". By that time, i still could use the remote key to lock and unlock the car, and start up the car with the key blade. After I drove and parked the car, I went to get a new battery for my key because I thought my battery was giving me the trouble. Then I went back to the car, I was still able to lock and unlock the car with the remote buttons, but I cannot start up the car, even with the key blade. So I disconnected both battery, waited and reconnected them, the car is able to start with the key blade, but can no longer lock and unlock with the remote buttons. So I can only lock the car manually now.
Later, I scanned the car, found there are 2 faults. One is an old fault, which is "the antenna in rear bumper has no signal intermittently", and the new fault is "luggage compartment start/access authorization antenna upper limit exceeded", and gave me a time that this occurred, which is exactly when I first found the keyless entry didn't work on Friday.
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On my '88 Ranger, there is the key lock that needs to be pressed to remove the key. When I changed the ignition cylinder, I darn near went ahead and removed it. I though I better check here first, and see if I was going to disable some other function I don't know about.
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Just put an OEM leather armest in my GLI. I ordered a new "sport cloth" lid from the dealer and was wondering how you go about removing the lid itself?
Took it as far apart as I could and don't see any way for the lid to be removed....
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I bought my wife a 2011 GX460 from Lexus. On my way home i realized the car was in KM not MPH. The outer ring is in KM and the inner ring is in MPH. The dealer thought they were going to be able to change but turns out they can't. I'm at a crossroads, what do i do. They offered to try and find a new car or i keep the car and we work out a deal of some sort. If i keep the car will i run into other issues with it being from Canada. So, what makes a 2011 GX460 from Canada different then one from the US ?
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I have a Bora trunk lid off a 2004 with the euro plate and lip my question is this how do I take my old trunk lid off because its wired in there I'm assuming its maybe a clip but all and all I just want to take the trunk lid off...
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How do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
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Removing exhaust shielding and replace it with some other insulator?
The reason I ask is I am looking at, the very least, removing the shielding over the midpipe section and muffler section. Looking for experiences (pros/cons) with doing the work.
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