Yesterday driving on the highway, i hear a sudden "clank" and out of the corner of my eye i see my key turn itself to the off position. which i think is really strange... my rpms went to 0 and everything died.
I pulled over, put it in park. I tried to start it but the key wouldn't turn cause it locked. So I took it out and tried again. It started just fine.
2000 jetta 1.8t ... Yesterday driving home from work (1.5 hr drive and it was 25+ degrees) my car died on the highway just before I made it home. Just lost power all of a sudden with no warning signs before and no overheating. No lights came on I just felt sudden loss of power and pulled over and turned the ignition off and it wouldn't start again. Just makes a high pitched whining noise and won't crank over. I just found out the other day that both O2 sensors need replacing but I can't see that being the reason.
View 5 RepliesAfter installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
View 2 Replies99 2.0 jetta. Getting oil on crank position sensor making it miss. Is it the rear main seal? Only reason I can think to have oil around the flywheel... How hard is a rear main seal to change out....
View 2 RepliesI'm looking at a 1999.5 MKIV Jetta to buy and one thing I noticed is that the CEL doesn't light up when you turn the key to the "on" position. All other lights light up except this. I'm familiar with MKIII's and it does light up.
View 10 RepliesSo noticed my cruise control does not work when I turn switch to on position the green light in cluster does not come on what are some problems that I could look into and also any example of using turn signal Bulbs in the head lights as drl lights instead of it running off of the actually headlight bulb?
View 9 RepliesI have a 24v vr6 gti, stage 2 C2 motor sports tune, and when i turn the key to the on position a message pops up on the dash that says: STOP OIL PRESS. STOP MOTOR! What this means or why it happens?
View 4 RepliesDriving my V10 at around 140 km/hr (87 mph) along the highway and passing a truck (in a tunnel), all of a sudden there was a violent vibration from the roof rack. It seems like it went into its resonance frequency because as soon as I slowed down it went away, and didn't reappear again.
View 2 RepliesI've been driving my V10 for 3 years now without a problem. The other day, while I was on the Highway in Italy driving at around 140KM/H, I suddenly had a loss of power. I could continue to drive the car, but I had no more tork... I stopped at the next gas station, turn the engine off, turned it on again, and the car drove normally again as before. About 200KM later the same happened again...
I went to check with the dealer - he hooked up the car to the computer - and told me that they had to change both turbos... What I find weird is that when I turn the car off and on again it works again. If the turbos would be defective, they wouldn't work again just by turning the car on and off. I think that it is more a problem with the turbo controller and if that's the case why change both turbo.
Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
While driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
My wifes explorer will not attempt to turn over. When I turn the key to the run position the dash does not do anything. I dont get any indicator lights or anything from the dash. And also the PATS light in now a steady dim light. So now I am confused and don't know where to start on this one. Is this a PATS issue or is my instrument cluster the problem? I did read the TSB on the cluster.
View 2 RepliesHow difficult is it to replace the crank position sensor? It looks pretty tucked away at the front of the engine. Just wondering how much time I should put aside for this job.
View 15 RepliesI want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
View 6 RepliesWhat is making this noise? car fired up fine this morning, drove it to work and once i exited the highway, idle started bouncing slightly and it seemed like the car was trying to compensate for something. every once in a while it will jump to 1000 rpm then try to settle but still the idle is choppy. and then there is this noise. Does not seem to the be the belts and to be honest I cant really pinpoint its location i think its loudest under the intake manifold. it sounds like a bad bearing to me but from where? O and I checked codes, nothing accept my regular emissions delete codes. I don't have immediate access to VAG-COM so that's out for the time being. also another detail, if i rev the car the noise does not seem to get any louder in fact it disappears mostly.
View 1 RepliesSo I was driving down the road today and my car just shut off. No turning back at all. It is still trying to start. Battery is fine, terminals are fine, it acts like it wants to start but won't start. It's been running fine for a long time now. I think it may be the fuel pump. I'm going to take the fuel line out when I get home and see if it's getting fuel.
Door doesn't make the buzzing sound when you open the door. The car is also on air ride...
I have a 2000 Jetta 1.8t. I am having a sudden boost surge problem. It seems no matter what gear I am in if I get on the gas when getting on the highway or whatever to just get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time, the boost just increases like crazy. I do have Gonzo Tune and know I should have a faster response but I have been in higher built mk4's and they don't do this.
I have done the following to try and fix problem and some cause it was just time to replace:
New MAF
New N75
Fixed Leaks
New Plugs
New coil packs
New Fuel Filter
I do have a boost gauge and when cruising my vac is steady. The sudden surge of boost goes to almost 20 psi. I have thought of replacing my wastegate actuator since I have heard that can be a problem?
I am having a overheating issue with my 1.8t AWP gti, it goes as fallows, start the car, engine warms up go for a drive (short 5-8 mi), park the car and temp gauge starts to rise, (turns off car)... I began to check some things with the system, I checked both rad hoses bottom is hot top is a bit hotter and fans work when ac is on; here is where it gets interesting i took off the coolant return hose on the reservoir (cold start) and nothing was flowing ...water pump?... So i turned the heat on and air full blast and all of a sudden coolant starts to flow.
It also seems like air is being spat out as well. Soon after the flow beginning my coolant in the reservoir starts to fluctuate (rising and dropping) with air bubbles and beginnings to over flow so i shut the car off. Now I know what the possible issues are its either the water pump, air in the system or bad autozone thermostat. Here is some history of the car TB was replaced at 70,000 by Previous owner, i bought the car had the belt inspected and was told it was good, about 2 months ago i had a coolant leak and had it misdiagnosed as a thermostat housing leak; it turns out it was a coolant bypass hose that was leaking so i ended up fixing it. I lost a lot of coolant but topped it off with g12+. My mechanic doesn't think its the water pump and recommended changing the thermostat for an VW one another mechanic recommended to bleed air of the system.
My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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