Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Fails To Go Into Reverse When Transmission Is Cold
Jul 17, 2014
I recently purchased a 2002 Jetta VR6 GLX. It drives fine when the transmission is warm, but fails to go into reverse and has a hard time shifting out of first when it's cold. I took it to my german mechanic friend who specializes in transmissions and he said that both the valve body and transmission need to be replaced. Problem is I don't have the funds to replace both.
The current transmission has 131000 on it.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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Is it a good deal to buy a 1.8t jetta with transmission problems. Won't go on reverse when the car is cold. 1500? mk4 vr6 .....
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Noticed that the transmission is cold (ie. sits overnight) it is hard, sometimes impossible, to shift into reverse. Specs on my gti: 14k miles, pretty much stock, manual trans...
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Just bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.
I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.
This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.
The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.
I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?
I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
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2001 VW Jetta 1.8t automatic.
Transmission has a hard time going into 1st and reverse. Also some times hits hard going into third. I have a CEL for a vehicle speed sensor? Was wondering if it's not the VSS but maybe one of the other tranny sensors?
Separate question. Same car has a rough idle issue. Occasionally stalls but intermittently runs normal always has a low idle around 600 rpm. I have a code for an injector on cylinder three.
VSS code : P0725 - engine speed sensor circuit malfunction
Injector code : P0203 - injector circuit open cyl 3
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So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
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I've got a 76 F-250 4x4 C6 and the transmission has been kind of quirky since I've owned it. I'm starting to tow with it occasionally and I'd like to get this sorted out. It only has issues cold. After 5 minutes at most its good to go, probably more like 2-3 minutes. After that it works 100% as it should.
When cold, reverse is really weak. If I fire it up cold and go for reverse it will hardly move. If I put it in neutral and run it at 2000rpm for about 30 seconds it will pull but still weak. And after getting out on the road 1st and 2nd are great but 3rd gear is basically non-existent, all slip. I just hold it in 2nd for a few minutes then its fine. There are absolutely no issues when it warms up. I was towing my Bronco with it and absolutely no slippage at all. I'm dealing with it for now. Don't back up when cold and hold it in 2nd for a bit when cold only. That or rev it before reverse etc.
I have adjusted the band. I have never changed the fluid. I did buy new fluid for it but have not done it. Who knows that kind of fluid is even in it. The fluid is a little dark but its really not that bad and doesn't smell burnt. I'm in the market for a 4 door super duty so I might just have to limp it along until then.
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93000 miles 5 speed manual transmission only lets me use 2,3 and reverse gear. I took good care of that car and dont think transmission should go out that soon/
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT. V6, 4x4
At very low speeds (5-10 mph), attempting to accelerate while turning (like coming out of a parking lot OR out of a curve) the transmission fails to engage. I hit the gas, the RPMs go up, but it doesn't get into gear. I will let off the gas, give it a couple seconds, hit the gas again and usually it engages. Sometimes I will have to repeat this step a second time. This problem started very slowly and has gradually gotten worse. It happens about once a day.
Concerned, I took it to the local Ford dealership and they have thus far changed/flushed the transmission fluid and replaced the filter. The mechanic said he found no metal shavings in the fluid, which might indicate grinding gears. They also said there were no codes coming up pointing to a transmission problem. It is still having the same exact issue however. The trouble now is they cannot "verify" the problem. The mechanics have put 40+ miles on it in similar driving scenarios and it will not act up for them.
After a couple weeks of back-and-forth, I'm really frustrated. My understanding is that they're "not sure" it is a transmission problem. They don't really want to open up the transmission case until they have a place to start. It should either be something mechanical with the transmission or a problem with the computer that controls the transmission, right? After getting off the phone with the mechanic today he said it might be a sticky throttle body?
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Every once in a while (maybe once a week) I notice that my transmission will slip (fails to engage for about half a second after hitting the throttle). Usually this happens after I have slowed down to almost a stop and then accelerate. The last time this happened I was on a slight incline (maybe 4%).
Is this something to worry about? Any easy way to test if this is an indicator of a big problem coming up down the road? The car has about 130k miles on it now and the transmission fluid and filter was changed at about 90k, the fluid level was checked by a VW tech so I assume it is correct.
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My car has been acting funny when I first turn it on I can't get into Reverse. But when I got to work today I could go right into reverse and park at work.
Then leaving I went to try and nothing the shifter I can push down and go to the side but will not go up like it's not even meant to do so. But by the time I got home and had to reserve a little and got it right in and I can reverse find no weird sounds or anything.
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1543 miles on my 2010 Golf TDI. got out of the car and tried to lock it, and the lock didn't. When I got back in to start it, it kicked over then the display read "Key not in range" and the engine sputtered dead.? Had to walk home a few miles to get the spare key...my mistake for not carrying both sets...my previous car was an Acura, so I didn't really need to plan for electrical failure.
Anyhow, once I got my spare key and walked a few miles back, it worked just fine. Kicked right over, happy to see me. Good thing; I hate having a car with paper tags (still too new to have the actual plates) towed to the dealer.
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen jetta, recently my reverse has went... Not sure the reason.
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Have a 20th with the 02m six speed ... Car won't go into any gear, except reverse ... Tried with the car off or on, clutch in and out with no luck ...
I took off the linkage from the engine bay and can only manually get the car to go into reverse ... Feels like it can't change "levels" ... Don't think it's clutch since because the car won't engage a gear even with the car off ...
Tried searching and no luck ... Thinking shift forks but hoping not since don't want to drop the transmission and it could be something else ...
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I'm just having a mis-alignment for my gearing reverse is replaced as first and I have no second gear not reverse only 1-3-4-5 gears are being entered what can I do to fix this...
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I have an 03 Jetta with an awp and 02j trans with 100,000 and I believe it's still the factory clutch. Trans fluid was flushed at 98000.
Problem : Going into first and reverse is really tough.
From 1st to 2nd and all other gears it is decently smooth not perfect though
The clutch pedal has a slight vibration in it when fully depressed
Once car gets warm it gets even worse to get into first and reverse
Does not pop out of gear or grind.
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I'm wondering if this piece of plastic has anything to do with it,also it is a 2001 jetta 2.0 .I just don't know what it is, or what to look up as a part # or name.
About 2 months ago,it just started acting up, shifts fine, but I have to push down hard 75% of the time to get it into reverse.
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I bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
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