Golf IV / Jetta IV :: EBrake Light Staying On Constantly / Loss Of Power
Nov 23, 2015
Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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I just recently replaced all timing chains on a 2000 VR6 jetta, all is working great but now I have an ABS, traction control on and ebrake on (flashing) constantly. Did I miss a ground somewhere? the only one I know of was from battery
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I am having a problem with my MK4 Jetta. The problem is that the light that says "Brake" on the dash is on and it is very dimly lit when the ebrake is down/ disengaged. But when I pull it up, it is lit up as much as it should. Also most of the time it will get even more dim if you tap the brake pedal or the clutch. My Jetta is scheduled to go get inspected in a few days and I need to fix this or it wont pass. I included a video of what it's doing so click on it and maybe y'all will be able to tell me what's wrong with it. [URL] ....
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Started my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.
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Recently I have noted the SRS light has stayed on constantly -- I thought perhaps because I placed a heavy box of books on the front passenger seat - and it was telling me that I needed to fasten the seat belt. The light went off initially but not too many days later -- the SRS light came on and has stayed on ever since. I had it "diagnosed" at the dealer and was told that the OPDS sensor has failed. It was explained that this is something "electrical" and if not working properly that none of the airbags will deploy if needed in an accident. However, since the "diagnosis" -- and driving my car home and on an errand or two -- now I see that the SRS light is off. Did the "diagnosis" with the computer actually "reset the SRS light" and is it possible that my OPDS sensor is actually "okay and not in need of an expensive repair"? I would like to know that my airbags are going to work -- in the event of a serious impact - would running another diagnosis confirm that the OPDS sensor is faulty or confirm that "all is working well with the SRS system". I know the dealer doesn't care -- if he takes my car if for a repair that is no longer needed - but I do care.
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I have a bad sensor in a tire that just had a flat. I have ordered the sensor for the wheel and I am wondering after I install the sensor in the tire will the 'reader' pick it up and reset itself or do I need to go through the programming of the new sensor? At this time the TPMS warning light comes on and flashes for a minute or so before staying on constantly. This tells me it's trying to read the tire sensors but there is a fault, which is the tire sensor where I just had the flat. Costco tells me that sensor reads 78psi, which is incorrect. The fact that the reader is trying to read all the sensors and getting an error makes me think that it might reset itself when the new sensor transmitter is put in the tire? Any chance of this resetting itself or will I need to reprogram the receiver unit?
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I have a 03 jetta 1.8t the asr light comes on and stays on and i cant shut it off if i turn the car off it goes off and then like 10 min later it comes on. Why its happening
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Just recently started getting what started as an intermittent air bag light that is now on constant. I seem to be getting a code 33.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6 the airbag light in the cluster is constantly staying on it does not flash at all. The only threads I can find are for the airbag light flashing which mine does not do. The passenger airbag light is not burnt out so that's not the problem. Where to start looking.
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so it started like a month ago my door light would occasionally come on for no reason now it's to the point where my door light is always on and it constantly dings, i know its the door lock module but is there any way to tell which door? it might be the trunk and also is there a way to temporarily fix it soi don't drive my car into a tree from being so annoyed.
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Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.
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So I picked this clean mk4 up and its my daily but what to do. It already has new coilovers and little things here and there.I recently noticed my e brake doesn't work I tried adjusting but no luck what can it be the cables seem to be intake. Also if I get a bov does it make my gas mileage crappy?
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I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
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Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
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I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
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I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
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My car has been throwing a code P2178
P2187 System Too Lean at Idle (Bank 1) DTC.
Checked the intake, checked maf, checked injectors.
Today after leaving show n go. Stopped at a gas station (never turned off the car) leaving the gas station the car was loosing power, I thought I was in 3rd instead of first. No, I was in 1st. Driving and car was sputtering and wasn't getting any power. After a few blocks it sounded like its gonna shut off. Pulled over to the side. Car died, doesn't wanna start again. Got spark, got fuel to the injectors, discoed the sensor to maf, still cranks but doesn't start. Got it towed to NY from NJ. Still no start. Few people said crankshaft sensor, starter, clogged cat or fuel filter. Car isn't throwing any codes now (probably cuz the motor didn't start) any clues on what it can be?
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I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
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The past couple days when driving to school in the morning i've been noticing that my car starts to rattle and struggles to accelerate once I pull out of my driveway. Once i get to the next stop sign to take off the car runs fine like nothing ever happened. My check engine light doesn't come on though. I usually let the car sit for about 30 seconds to a minute before i start to move the car. Mods I have are Unitronic stage 2, Forge 007p DV with yellow spring, and 3" downpipe.
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just picked up this 99 Jetta with about 150,000 miles and while driving all of a sudden i had extreme power loss, shaking and shuddering, and the engine light came on. My code reader found multiple random misfires cylinder 1 and 4 codes P0300, P0301, and P0304.
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Last weekend, I was riding my Golf 2.0L when it started losing power, then a thick blueish white smoke started coming out from the engine all the way through the exhaust. Stopped the car on the side of the road and had it towed back home. I've looked for loss of any oil or coolant but the levels are ok. No mixed fluids from sight. I've had a check engine light for oxygen sensor for a year or so, but I've been told that would not be the problem. I started the car a few hours after it was towed home, it was now cool so the smoke wasn't as thick. The smoke doesn't smell like coolant fluid. I took out a spark plug and there was a bit of oil onto it too. My engine runs normally. People have been telling me to look for head gasket, valve cover gasket, engine head, etc. A week later, I still can't find what it could be.
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