Golf IV / Jetta IV :: EBrake Light Is Always On
Jul 15, 2016
I am having a problem with my MK4 Jetta. The problem is that the light that says "Brake" on the dash is on and it is very dimly lit when the ebrake is down/ disengaged. But when I pull it up, it is lit up as much as it should. Also most of the time it will get even more dim if you tap the brake pedal or the clutch. My Jetta is scheduled to go get inspected in a few days and I need to fix this or it wont pass. I included a video of what it's doing so click on it and maybe y'all will be able to tell me what's wrong with it. [URL] ....
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Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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Throwing the following codes:
p2401- evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low
p0261- cyl 1 injector circuit low
p0267- cyl 3 "
p0270- cyl 4 "
p0264- cyl 2 "
p0445- evap emission system purge control valve circuit shorted
p2257- secondary air injection system control A circuit low
p0010- A camshaft position actuator/open bank 1
p0414- secondary air injection system switching valve A circuit shorted
Obviously an electrical issue, no way all these codes spring up all at once for separate reasons. Any fuses, relays, harnesses or grounds that relate to all or most of these problems.
Car has trouble at start up, takes a little longer to turn over. If I don't stay on the gas it will eventually cut off. Once I am driving its fine. Its only once the E brake is up, it will cut off right after the brake light comes on.
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So I picked this clean mk4 up and its my daily but what to do. It already has new coilovers and little things here and there.I recently noticed my e brake doesn't work I tried adjusting but no luck what can it be the cables seem to be intake. Also if I get a bov does it make my gas mileage crappy?
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I just recently replaced all timing chains on a 2000 VR6 jetta, all is working great but now I have an ABS, traction control on and ebrake on (flashing) constantly. Did I miss a ground somewhere? the only one I know of was from battery
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I just want to ask and let ppl know if they have had this problem on there camry. This is the 4 time its had come on like this the ABS e brake and Skid light all three came on while i was parked and driving, everything I had to pull over to the side and turn off my car and restart it and the lights are gone.
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I was coming home from work today and I got a little screwed over. So I got stuck about 10 times in 2 feet of snow and my tires looked like they burned out they smell horrible but I have a bigger problem. The brake light when on the e-brake and stayed on what does that mean?? is it a leak? Then the ABS light when on probably because of no traction but is it a major problem?
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E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
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Coming back from a trip I got a e-brake light show up on the dash then noticed the signals stopped working and the heated seats no longer turn on. I scanned it with my AE and got a brake fluid sensor error come up but nothing about the signals .... is this a common problem or is there a connection between all this? 2003 F350 6.0L .....
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This has been an intermittent problem, resolved temporarily by system off/on. Dealer installed new brake hardware ; No dice. Took car to street mechanic, who removed and replaced pertinent fuses and relays (same parts) no problems for six months. Prob came back, took the cover off the fuses and relays under the hood, while alarm wailed and lights blazed, tapped on relay, lights off, alarm silent function perfect.
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My teenage son bought a 2004 Solara. While cleaning it out, he pulled the ebake handle, which was badly rusted and got stuck in the locked position. He took apart the wheel, stripped some bolts, and had to take the calipers to a local shop to have the bolts removed. While there, he asked the shop if he could just cut the ebrake cables and remove the inner shoe assemblies. They said yes since it is a separate system from the disc brakes. So he removed the shoes and cut the cables to both rear wheels. But after replacing the calipers, and bleeding them, the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I came over and bled them myself, but the pedal still goes to the floor. I don't see how, but is it possible the ebrake system is interconnected to the regular brakes and causing this problem? What could be causing this? He said it was working perfectly fine before he had the ebrake issue.
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Just replaced the RR speed sensor (that was fun) nothing a big hammer and flit tip screw driver can't fix there. Just 2 days ago the abs and asr light popped on the dash AGAIN. Ode too joy. Used a simple universal scanner too see if I could pull any codes, always worked for me, sure the scanner sees manufacturer specific codes it didn't bother me given I have the Bentley manuals. Already searched and found these lights related too codes or srs and brake light. Not my case. Given it's pretty odd I figured for future events of other mk4 owners this would be a good idea.
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Was taking an exit ramp going about 90km/h, not doing anything crazy or abnormal, and my ASR light on my dash flicked on a couple of times and it cut the power, as though I was slipping while accelerating in snow. I hit the ASR switch on my console, and all problems went away.... then I parked my car for a few hours, took it for a drive later on in the night and all was well.
Not sure if this makes a difference but I bottomed out kinda hard on highway about 20 minutes before this happened going about 80km/h.
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I purchased a 2002 2.0 jetta a couple of months ago and not long after I had it I noticed that the airbag light had come on. I brought it to a garage and had them check it out and they came back with a code that read 01218 side airbag igniter passenger side. When. I asked about getting this fixed they really couldn't say much about what exactly the problem was other then to say that it could be a problem with the whole system...which I don't get as the code only came back for the side airbag igniter. I also went and spoke to the dealer here in town and they wouldn't even speak to me about it unless I let them have the car be seen by one of their mechanics and putting the computer on it to read the code which I had already told them about.
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I have a VW 2001 1.8 T. I have had a problem with the ASR light coming on and staying on for more than a year. It is horrible. They can't figure out the problem. I can't tell you how many things they've tried to fix this.
My ASR light comes on while driving on DRY pavement and stays on. My car's performance decreases greatly. I have a case with 800-VW and my local VW has been trying to fix this for a year. The MAF (mass air flow) is still failing, but since it has already been replaced TWICE, they won't replace it again. We got an extended warranty on the MAF as you might recall.
I am at a loss.. they've replaced the air filter, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the ASR switch, they've redone all the ground connections, and replaced the spark plugs. NOTHING IS WORKING. MY ASR LIGHT STILL COMES ON 4 DAYS/ WEEK.
Right now, my VW has their techline involved and even they don't know what to do. I've payed for several UNNEEDED repairs for my car and the ASR light still comes on.
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I'm looking at buying a 00 jetta vr6,the couple who owns it claims it never came on before they parked it, but after not running for around 3 months it started again. Idles fine, starts on the first crank, no strange noises coming from it, bogs down around 2200 rpm?
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My oil light comes on when I start the car. I thought I needed an oil change so I did that. It still comes on. It came on about 3 days ago for the first time. What's causing it?
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the oil pressure light comes on for a year now I will pop on, on hot days, when I go into low rpm like coming off the high way or stuck in traffic. I changed the op switch and put 10w40 in with no luck.
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2000 golf glx VR[IMG][/IMG]
Epc light is on going down the list of things it can be. Should this be closed all the way while car is off. And if it is then is it closed all the way in the picture?
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Here's my question. Recently my muffler fell off the back of my car and was dragging on the ground. The front bracket had snapped off and so had the pipe right where it comes out of the front of the muffler. I want to replace with the stock oem muffler but i can't afford it right now. My question is can i just take the muffler off for the time being so it wont drag on the ground? Will this harm the engine or be completely absurdly loud? Is this even legal....
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