Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Coolant Gauge Jumps From 0 To 190 Comes Down To 0 And Stay Sometimes?
Nov 21, 2014
The coolant gauge jumps from 0 to 190, comes down to 0, stays at 1/4 the way down... jumps to 190, sometimes stays at 190, sometimes stays at 0. All this while driving. I was thinking it could be the temperature sensor since it's not a green top? I also read there are other parts like the sender that could be the problem. I have been trying to find similar problems and was unlucky.
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I have a 202 Jetta 1.8T GLS. Sometimes the traction control light comes on and the car jumps like it cant figure out what gear to go in. It gets very interesting to drive when it does this as I am sure you can imagine. Only other light that is on is the engine control light which is on all the time. Car seems to run fine until this happens. If I pull over and shut the car off it seems fine when I start it up again and continues to run fine and all of a sudden it happens again. I do have a code p2637 Torque Management feedback signal "A".
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94 celica GT 2.2 federal automatic, doesn't want to run, coughing, stalling, rpm gauge jumps eratically up down.
Computer says one code only, #12. Regarding Haynes manual it's distributor circuit or Igniter. When engine stops rotating (ignition still on), many times there is noise from distributor cap, like zzzzz....
System keeps shooting spark between distributor cap and rotor and there will be spark on that same spark plug !!!!!!
What's wrong? Distributor or Ignitor ??
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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My gas/fuel gauge jumps when I use the turn signals. The flicking is more pronounced when the tank is full. I have changed the sending unit in the gas tank and it still doesn't work correctly
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So I am at a loss. My gti starts and runs great, but not for long its like the fuel just cuts off. It won't stay running long enough for the computer to even pop a code...
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2005 1.8t gti. so my left blinker bulb went out and it was acting normally for a burnt bulb but then my right blinker started to randomly come on and stay on, my blinker arrow on my dash will stay on but very dimly and when i go over bumps it will click on and off and sometimes stay on then shut off when i go over another bump.
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta has started intermittently leaving its lights on after she locks the car. It seems to happen with the fob OR with the keys in the lock. It started a few weeks ago with just the left rear turn signal. Now it is starting to do all four corners and the repeater on the front fenders.
The lights don't blink, they stay on solid usually after doing the normal "lock blink" and noise. This obviously drains the battery so we've had to jump it a few times.
How to fix this? To me it is obviously something electronic, but I didn't know if I should look to replace relays/fuses/wires/etc.
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On my 86 caprice classic. the gas Gauge jumps to full when i turn the key even when car is started but its only like a gallon of gas in there is it the sending unit the ground or something else and is there any way to test it.
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I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
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Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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I hit a pillar with the driver side door and it bent a bit and now the open door alarm stays on while I drive and its even worse when the lights are turned on, how do I disconnect the door open alarm?
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My AC is not working. I just tried to put in some freon and it did nothing for me. Hopefully this doesn't make matters worse, I'm finding that it may have..
From what I can tell everything is working fine except the pipes at the firewall that go to the evaporator stay warm and don't cool at all after ten minutes.
The clutch is engaging when the AC button is pressed and stays on fine.
I found this thread : [URL] .....
about the blend door, that could be it haven't checked yet but does it suggest that the condenser isn't working since the pipes don't get cold?
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When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
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I have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo. when I turn the car off the cooling fans stay on and kill my battery. Ive been told it could either be a relay or temp sending unit but i dont know what one to tackle first, also my coolent temp stays way low almost as if the thermostat is stuck open.
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so on last saturday while i was driving my coolant gauge went from "operating temp" and dropped to cold. I was at cold for a few seconds and then bounced between cold and "operating temp" a few times before.
Now this morning driving to work the car warmed up fine to "operating temp". I was driving to work and all the sudden the gauge just goes straight to cold and stays there. I tried messing with the heater control buttons, turned on the a/c, defrost, heat, blower on high, blower on low... everything. Needle never moved from cold. I had heat at every temp desired, a/c got cold when i turned it on. I don't have a cel or any error codes showing...
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I have a 03 GLI 24V VR6 6 speed and im having an issue with the brake light.. ive checked all the fuses and emergency brake sensor and they are all good, the issue is the brake light flashes 3 times then will stay on almost immediately and whenever it does the entire drive of the car changes.. without the light on the car runs fine but when it comes on its like the car goes to a limp mode and is leaning out on fuel.. it wont rev past 4k it falls on its face and basically jerks along until I get where I am going.. I've replaced ABS speed sensors, MAF, and front brakes and axles recently.. before this was an random issue that would come and go but now its almost every time and it makes it undriveable..
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The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
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I have a MK4 PD150 with the ARL engine and it's drinking coolant!
I'm no mechanic but I think I've narrowed it down seen as there is no visual leaks on the ground. EGR cooler or head gasket.
I've had the car about a month and the garage I bought it from said that it had been pressure tested so this makes me think that it would more likely be the EGR cooler? It's been sat on my drive for three weeks also as I've just passed my test after recently turning 17.
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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