Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Beeping After Oil Change
Apr 29, 2016
05 GTI 1.8t
Neuspeed chipped (yeah, bring the insults, car came with it, peaks 24psi so neener-neener!)
Other than that it's mechanically stock.
Last time I had the oil changed, I drove roughly 30 miles to work the following day. When I went to leave work the car beeped a few times, no lights went off. I pulled over and checked oil, it was a half quart low. Topped it off and didn't have a problem after.
Yesterday I had the oil changed, drove to work today and as I left I got that same beep. This time it looks like it's not low on oil. No lights went off, I pondered for a few minutes and took the streets home. No following light or signs of trouble.
What could be happening? My oil pressure sensor is relatively new, replaced it last year and I checked the connection today. I searched around but keep coming across common oil pressure threads. I'm planning to get an oil pressure gauge, guess I'll get one sooner than later for peace of mind.
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My brake fluid is fine and fuses 5 & 9 are good. Brake lever is all the way down as well. Have read that for some simply replacing the cap worked. Car is a 2000 w/170K. BTW, A/C does not work, clutch not spinning, fuses ok there as well. I've made sure a/c button is not on nor is recirc button. Some have said probe can be related to this but that also can show up with a bad fuse # 5, but mine is good.
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I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
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Had the 2003 Jetta in for inspection, and he said the rear brake caliper was gone. SO he replaced it.
Now in the morning when I leave for work, as I go up my steep driveway, the brake warning light comes on and beeps at me. Then it stops.
On the way home, as I come up the steep road to my driveway, the warning light comes on and beeps at me!
All other times and all other driving, it's fine.
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A couple months ago I bought a 2010 with the basic trim package. How to change the Beeping in reverse from continuous to "one beep". The owner's manual says that you have to take it to the dealer.
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My car was running fine and it was due for a new oil change so I decided to do it myself. I changed the oil and oil filter and I started my car after I did this and it ran fine. I shut my car off and a few minutes later when I went to start it again, it cranked over and was sputtering. I tried again and now it won't even sputter. It will just turn over. Also the car is a 03 vw gti vr6 with 126xxx miles on it.
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My car is ''remap'' from 1.4 to 1.8 golf iv.. I think that immobilizer don't work,can I change speedometer from 1.8 gti without make encode the new one? Only to take the new speedometer and fit it on my car.. Also how can I understand if my immobilizer works? I have vag com...
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I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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I have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
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So I recently bought my 03 VW Golf TDI, and have it in the shop this morning to get the wheel alignment done, balance my winters, fuel/cabin filter changed, as well as an oil change. I am now wondering whether or not to give them a call to change the transmission oil as well...
But.. the vehicle has alot of km's on it (358K) and I keep reading that it would do more harm then good? Is this true? Doesn't make any sense to me, but the car could shift more smoothly I think if I do it, and I have yet to see any tran fluid change in the previous owners records in quite some time..
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I'm wondering if the Fram Toughgard filter is the culprit. First time I'm using this brand. I know this car has had noisy lifter before, but it was all gone for a while, and mysteriously came back after the oil change. It's not the fluid level, which is fine. It should be noted that the lifter noise doesn't happen until the engine is warm and has been taken up to highway speeds.
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So long story short, last week I destroyed my first gear in the tranny. This weekend I did the complete swap and put a used o2j in. 5 speed. 2.0 motor.
Right after the swap, on the first startup I noticed the clutch felt softer. The grip is also a little less than it used to be.
Right before my transmission blew I upgraded from 15" alloys to 17" longbeaches with spacers all around- much heavier. It happened on my first drive with the new rims so I didn't get to feel the car much.
I reused my current slave cylinder. Did not disconnect it from the line while swapping. I did however notice my slave boot had a small little dent in it (super small) but no tears or anything. Also, reinstalling it i pushed it in and compressed the boot and secured it with the bolts - I hope I did this right.
I redid my rear brakes about a month ago, did not disconnect brake lines or bleed the system.
I have already driven about 50km on the new tranny. Today I am getting the tranny service (flush) done because I didn't have the sockets to check it after install. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he might know anything. The brakes also feel a touch less but I'm not sure if this is cause of the 17" wheels.. does the system just need to be bled?
All gears go in smooth - clutch in.
All gears go in smooth with car off.
No grinding of gears when switching or driving.
No reverse grind.
No slipping in any gears.
Just a soft pedal and feels like softer bite. I did the tranny swap in a rush, did not replace fork, TOB or anything. They should all be fine, I'm thinking it's just air but need confirmation. I just want this car to last another year or so..
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So I have a 2.0 automatic golf GLS. Its the last of the MK4's but a 2005 model. So this is what's going on. When I drive the car for awhile the transmission (I'm assuming gets hot )& Im at a stop & start from 0 the car struggles to change gears. The rpms go way up into 5k sometimes 6 just to go to second gear, And then so forth. This only happens when I drive around for awhile. My dad just flushed the transmission fluid after my car refused to change gears. It was stuck in a high gear from my assumption & it was always a lot of work for the car to build up speed. What's going on with my tranny? Is it the solenoids? Valve body? TCM? Car is at 104k miles btw
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Any VCDS instructions to reset?
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I had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
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This morning, while getting ready for work, my car's alarm sounded. I ran outside in the rain, and it was beeping and flashing, but there was no one around. I unlocked the doors, looked inside, everything looked fine. Shut her up, reset the alarm. Not 2 minutes pass and it goes off again. Same drill. This time I start the car and the MFA indicates the rear compartment is open, I check and it's not. I open it, shut it, and reset the alarm. You know what happens next, the alarm goes off.
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So I was leaving work when my car starting beeping and the coolant low light flashed. I shut the car off and popped the hood to find my coolant level almost to the bottom of the reservior. I figured I would just keep an eye on the temp as I drove home and it stayed right at 190 just like from day one. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump was leaking. I just turned 4k miles on the way there!! What gives? He said it was not uncommon for the pump to start a leak, but was pretty uncommon to leak so soon. He said it is probably due to a bad cast of the pump. I really like this car and I hope it is not a sign of things to come.
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So I was given this car as a gift around march of last year and it had 150k+ miles on it. The week I got it there was an oil leak, that was caused by a damaged oil filter. So when it happened the car was beeping. I took it to a mechanic, and he "fixed" it. However, ever since then when the car gets to it's optimal temperature it starts beeping. Whenever I accelerate and rev the engine it stops beeping (ex: when I'm on the freeway no beeping; in the city with tons of stops = lots of beeping). It is annoying and it's gotten to the point where I am embarrassed to give people rides in my car.
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I drive a 2000 VW Golf with 148K miles on it. One Saturday this summer my brake indicator light started lighting and beeping intermittently as I was driving. My brakes were operating fine so I did not read my owners manual until I reached my home. It indicated that I needed to have a qualified mechanic check it immediately but as it was almost 4 o'clock in the afternoon I couldn't find a mechanic in any gas station or garage. As I had a 200 mile drive to do the next day, I purchased brake fluid and carefully followed all of the directions for checking and filling my brake fluid.
However, when I took the cap off of the reservoir, the reservoir really looked fine and I was only able to add about a teaspoon max of brake fluid. However, when I tried driving the car, it seemed that the problem was solved as the brake indicator light did not come on again. Approximately 3 months later now the brake indicator light is intermittently going on again: about every other day. It goes on and then shortly after it goes off and then it doesn't come on again for a day or two.
Inasmuch as I added such a small amount of brake fluid last time I'm really not sure that the problem is actually with the fluid. I wondered if perhaps it was more of a vacuum problem or that by opening the reservoir some air escaped or something of that nature. I also wonder if possibly there's a component that's giving a false reading. At any rate, I'm a little white-haired old lady and there's a limit to what I can do on my car myself and I'm also a target whenever I go into a shop to get the most expensive diagnosis and fix. I'd like to go in to a shop with good information so that it doesn't become an expensive fishing expedition. What could be causing this?
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Had my car since the end of december 12, now after a drive to San Diego from Las Vegas I experienced a check coolant light beeping this morning. I didn't check the fluids the day of leaving but 3 days before and everything was all good. Checked the levels and it looked like there was barely any in the tank. After I picked up some coolant from the local dealer thinking maybe I just needed to put more in don't know why I didn't have them look at it then I should have. As I unscrewed the cap after letting it sit for a while I saw coolant surface in the tank.
I thought that was weird but I said oh well let me put a bit in since it looked like it was just duno if this will sound right storing more inside the engine? Let it run for a bout 20 mins and took off. from the dealership when I didn't get the warning anymore. went driving for some bit and got the same warning when I was heading back to my hotel. now I was tripping :|. I parked the car and let it sit in a spot with n spots of oil came out and found a decent sized puddle after letting it sit for some minutes. wiped a bit of it up with a paper and it seemed kind of dirty but reddish, and it seemed greasy like.
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I am owner of brand new Golf Sportsvan 1.4 92kw petrol, 6 speed manual. Since day two ive been noticeing that something might be wrong with my car. Second day of ownership i was greeted by TPMS, ESC, Auto hold and Stop start system error all at once, and parking sensors were beeping and button was flashing. Ive been reading about it and its not new for MK7 owners as i can understand. But what worries me most is the revs when the engine is cold and i start it up first time. Did a video and uploaded it. [URL] .....
Weird thing is i only get errors when its cold start, i mean for example yesterday and today it was cold here (-5 degrees celcsius) and car started up with no errors, but the revs where bouncing up and down like seen on video. Sometimes i get those 4 errors aswell and rev problem, sometimes only rev problem, but when the engine is at the working temperature i get no errors, no shakey revs.
Otherwise love the car. Solid build quality, Spacious, Like the pyramid gold color, lovely car, beside those gremlins.
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