I was just wondering if it is common for our cars to have the windows freeze to the point you can't open them in winter? I know it is sometimes common for cars to have their windows freeze in the winter but it seems like with my VW that the window is constantly frozen shut unless it is 30+ degrees. tips to prevent my windows from freezing shut?
View 1 RepliesSo I've had my car for 3 years now. I've done an emissions delete, replaced maf, diverter valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt kit, fuel filter, air filter, starter and battery (for another issue) have a 3" DP and replaced the O2 when I did that, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tested another n75 in my car.
The problem: the car sometimes has a really hard time starting when it it way below freezing. When it's around cold, at freezing or under the car will start fine. But the problem starts after I back out of my driveway and take the clutch out and put on the gas. When I try to accelerate the car will not accelerate. You can have your foot pressed to the floor and the car will act as it's stalling out and sputter but it actually won't stall because the call will keep driving and then all of a sudden power will come back and it will take off. The situation can be remedied by either pushing the clutch in. The car will idle no mall or if when the car is sputtering I can tap the gas quickly an it will build up speed and the problem will go away.
2005 Jetta, passenger side window has been falling out of it's track for the past several months. Sometimes a pothole bump is enough to drop it into the door, and if I roll it up all the way, it is unable to be rolled down again unless I squeeze both sides of the window and realign it. if I leave it even a cm less than fully up, it stays on track somehow...
I've read that this is semi-common in Jetta's of this year, and that it's due to a "window clip" that made out of some cheap plastic snapping. I've called pep boy's and NAPA auto parts near me (MA) and both said they don't carry that sort of thing and I need to go to a dealer. The dealers tell me that they won't sell the plastic piece alone, and that I must basically buy the full new module (glass, track, clips, and all the other stuff that I don't need).
Where I might be able to get only the cheap plastic piece by itself, or how I can fix the problem without spending hundreds on a entirely new system?
My drivers door glass fell into the door while driving - took it to an auto glass store they want to charge me $200 to fix. I figured for that price I can buy parts needed and make the repair myself. what do I need to buy to get this working properly again?
View 7 RepliesThis just started on me not even an hour ago. I hit my switch and the window will go down all the way and the motor will continue running making a grinding noise until I hit the switch again. Same as when it goes up all the way. It stops at halfway and makes the grinding noise until I release and press the switch up again. Is this just the motor teeth going bad or are the cables getting frayed out possibly? Haven't had time to tear down and inspect yet.
View 4 RepliesPicked up some rain guards for the front windows, driver side works fine but the passenger side is making the window get stuck ...
View 3 RepliesI recently picked up a 2001 MK4 jetta and Have some issues with door locks. Upon searching I'm thinking I may have a faulty door lock module.
Symptoms are that the doors will randomly lock for no reason when I unlock the door and sit inside for a min or two. PO broke the drivers armrest control and glued them in place and I think some glue seeped into the lock button as it is very stiff and no longer works. Going to replace the door card and controls but wondering if the problem may be due to typical burnt out soldering points?
For my window issue, passenger window appears to possibly be crooked in the window clips as it stops 3/4 of the way up and will reverse back down as if stuck. I have to keep pressing it to get it to go up. Does this sound like typical broken clips and glass is about to fall? Would I just undo clips and reattach?
I have a problem with my golf 4 window. RR after washing it the window wouldn't go up again it just made a grinding noise inside but no movement when you press the switch, I watched a few videos on how to open the panel and I did and found this wire lying around like this I don't know what to do from here as the car must go for a test for registration and they check the windows. do i need to buy the entire back panel?
View 2 RepliesSo I've been noticing some issues with my 2011 GTI with only 1800 miles. I had some weird drive by wire issues, like the motor holding its RPMs with the clutch in for excessive time, a start up and idle issue (TPS?), my passenger window is very slow (heard that this is common), and now my driver window hesitates and pauses when rolling it down... ERR!
And yes I will take it to the dealer, its just that I live 100 plus miles away.
My son has a S-10, 4.3 liter where the A/C compressor clutch or bearings occasionly freeze up. By that I mean the serpentine belt rotates, but the ac pulley freezes up. It amazes me that it hasn't broken the belt so far, but surely it will soon.
My question is, can he buy or shorter belt and bypass the ac altogether, as he never uses it, or replace the ac compressor with an idler pulley per the no ac 4.3 liter configuration? He really doesn't want to put a lot of money into the truck at this point as he is in college.
Its just around freezing, and damp in Ontario and suddenly, in the mornings my Accord won't start. The battery is fairly new, the engine cranks and seems to almost catch but never quite. Yesterday, i came home at lunch and it started right up (though i didn't drive it), then this morning it wouldn't start, and it still won't. The fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to II.
I had the main relay problem on an older Accord but that doesn't seem to be the case for the 98 to 02 models. It seems like the most common problems are with the ignition switch (recall...but it causes random stalling while driving). The other common one is with the coil pack/ igniter. I'm not sure how to really check these, other than by replacing them. I haven't checked for spark yet but i am about to. How to measure the resistance of the coil (and what it should be?). What about the wires?
Is there an easy to access fuel filter on this car and if so, where is it?
My trip to Gillette WY was OK but the windshield washer froze up and did not work the entire trip. So much for a snow car, but now, in warmer climate, only the drivers side will spray...nothing at all out of the passenger side. I looked up the system on Ebahn 92-32 but it just shows how to remove the tip. How to replace or check the hose? Or, even better, how to direct heat to the washer system to keep it from freezing up?
View 4 RepliesEvery so often my trunk lid freezes (aka boot lid) shut. The release seems to function, but ice holds it shut. I tug fairly enthusiastically on the handle above the license plate, but it doesn't budge. I've tried pushing down around the sides of the lid hoping to confuse the ice and cause it to break loose but that hasn't worked? I haven't been desperate enough to try pouring warm water anywhere, or to really try to force open the handle (assumed it would break).
View 2 RepliesI have a 06 expedition limited and have been having a ac problem for some while now.. Around town both front and rear ac work and blow cold air just fine. While on the hwy 20-30 miles on road outside temp 90+,ac starts to fade, on high you can barely feel it coming out of the vents but it's still loud... Evaporator is freezing up..after a hour plus of hwy driving the rear will slowly fade away also..I can turn off the ac off and around 5 minutes turn it back on and the ac will work good for around 15 or so minutes before fading away again. Had the ac checked out,no leaks,not low on freon. Suggested the front expansion valve be changed..tried that and still same problem..temp monitored from the vent gets as low as 28-30 degree F before fading away?
View 10 RepliesThe switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
View 1 RepliesI have the dreaded "STOP FAULT RUNNING GEAR" message. Vag-Com shows Electical Fault in Circuit for both Left Front and Left Rear level sensors. Checked all fuses. Replaced both sensors....no change. Temperature started dropping below freezing, message goes away and suspension works. Temperature rises, message comes back and suspension stops working again.
View 6 RepliesWinters get COLD up here, easily -20F at night.
All my life, I've always went running outside, start the car up, get the heat blasting, run back inside. By the time I walk out to actually leave 10-15 minutes later, it's warm (or at least tolerable) inside the car, and the windows are defrosted.
Experiencing the Nav system freezing on startup? I tap "Agree" to the legal and it doesn't respond. I literally had to turn the car off at an intersection - open the door and re-start to get it to work. (twice) The problem has since disappeared again but guaranteed it will return again...
View 15 RepliesIt only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
View 7 RepliesMy Ion won't start under -15 degrees C but when things warm up turn the key and it roars, dealer says when it won't go call us. What to do? Battery cell freezing or something else I should know about?
View 30 RepliesSo here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).