Golf IV / Jetta IV :: While Shifting Lose Power - Shaking - White Smoke?
Oct 11, 2015
When flooring with 1st or 2nd gear engine suddenly lose power, smoke like hell (white smoke) and engine start to shake badly? It disappears after few minutes when engine turned off. When cold it will go in "that" stage almost on every flooring. When warm it possible will start to shake a little and disappear after a minute without turning off engine.
After CCV breather valve(was broken) , turbo and nozzle replacement this problem still exist.
What could cause that problem?
*Golf mk4 AHF 81kw with new turbo, new bigger nozzles and chip.
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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I was driving my 2004 Jetta Tdi manual the other day and everything was fine. I stopped at a stop sign and began to go when suddenly i lost power like I was out of fuel only that was not the case. I looked behind me and saw lots of white smoke puffing behind me. I pulled over immediately and checked the oil (a little low), air filter (still pretty and white), coolant (clean and clear). I added a little oil and drove home very slowly and kept the RPMs as low as possible. There was no engine noise that I could tell.
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Last weekend, I was riding my Golf 2.0L when it started losing power, then a thick blueish white smoke started coming out from the engine all the way through the exhaust. Stopped the car on the side of the road and had it towed back home. I've looked for loss of any oil or coolant but the levels are ok. No mixed fluids from sight. I've had a check engine light for oxygen sensor for a year or so, but I've been told that would not be the problem. I started the car a few hours after it was towed home, it was now cool so the smoke wasn't as thick. The smoke doesn't smell like coolant fluid. I took out a spark plug and there was a bit of oil onto it too. My engine runs normally. People have been telling me to look for head gasket, valve cover gasket, engine head, etc. A week later, I still can't find what it could be.
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I went out to the store today all was fine came back out and started driving got 2 miles down the road to a red light and the truck about stalled no power it doesn't smoke at idle but revved up it blows black and some white and the truck shakes. I am thinking its stiction or bad FICM????
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Coming home, doing 50 or so in traffic. R has been feeling bogged down when shifting from 1st to 2nd and it would start around 2K. Felt like someone would tug on the R, holding it back. Driving along, don't hear a pop or loud sound, just a poof of blk smoke then a TON of white smoke.
I limp my way to a parking lot and let it sit. I call the wife as I'm 6 miles from home. I'm thinking blown head gasket or something else. I call Benji at NGP Racing and explain to him what happened. He said if it was the HG that there would be a milky look to the coolant. Checked and nope.
I start the R and let it idle and it seems fine. The wife gets there and follows me back home. Still feels bogged down as described above. At one point a huge plume of thick blk smoke comes out of the rear. she said enough that she couldnt see the R.
Last night I checked the oil, seemed low in the dim light. I know my fault. I put in 3 quarts. Looked at the exhaust tips and they are blk. I mean you can see oil down into the pipes. Noticed some oil had been leaking from the aftermarket oil cap that doesnt seal as good as the OEM I take it.
Info:
118K miles
Had been hearing some noises from the timing chains.
CAI
Unitronic NA+1 tune
Not raining
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I have white smoke pouring out of my exhaust in my 2001 Jetta1.8t , it happens at idle and then a lot at acceleration. The smoke is white and everyone and a while it has a hint of blue. I don't know what is wrong but what do yall think could be happeneing?
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Its a 2001 jetta vr6, 5 speed, electronic seats all leather with wood trim panels, and I am having quite the issue. When you turn on the car it has a rough idle around 600rpm but doesn't die out. it smokes like a banshee, white smoke. if you come back later and start it, no smoke until you give it gas. some times it doesn't smoke at all. misfire cyl 6 and 5, used to have 4 misfires but spark plugs did me justice, maf sensor low voltage output, bank 1 sensor 2 02 something or another, when i first got it, it would just chug and not smoke at all. the better its running, the more smokes it produces it seems. none of my coils have the rubber graumet around them anymore and all seem to be pretty shot regardless. I have no leaks underneath the car, coolant has no oil mixture in it all all, no visible leaks on the headgasket, and most of the time the smoke smells like gas, but its purely white. I am just wondering what could cause it, im trying to feel out more options before getting drunk and doing a headgasket. no oil loss, no coolant loss.
[URL] .....
video of the smoke.
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I have an 02 jetta 1.8t just recently put oil in it and it's now pouring white smoke at idle and right around when I'm in 3rd. When parked and running it's puking oil and I have oil sprayed all in the engine bay. I have it sitting now and there's still a drip.
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Having issue with a 2003 jetta 1.8t. I bought it used and it seemed to run great. Sometimes going up hills i get white smoke for like a minute (probably in too low of a gear when it happened).
Happens on the highway sometimes too if i punch it to pass somebody (like already going 60, punch it to 80). I've read other posts here to get some ideas (turbo going bad, etc.) It seems to coincide with a lack of power or stumbling in the gear I'm in...
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Let's start from the beginning. 3 months ago, I replaced my oil pan, and since then I've noticed that white smoke would randomly blow out of my exhaust- A couple times when I really got on her, and a few times when sitting idling for 10-15 minutes.
Two days ago, I was driving and about to hop on the highway to make my 40 minute commute home, realized that my temp had gone up about an eighth over 190 (usually stone cold centered)... Watched it for another 2 minutes and the temp was 3/4 of the way to the red, so I pulled over and popped the hood.
The coolant reservoir was COMPLETELY empty, which didn't really make any sense- I had been running my AC all day because it was hot out, but I don't think I was idling with the AC on for too long.
I let her cool off, had a friend bring me some coolant (not much at all) and a TON of water. Filled her up and went home; temp was trying to climb but I wouldn't accelerate too much so she wouldn't go much higher than that eighth over the 190 mark.
Next morning, dropped her off at a mechanic's before work, asked for an oil change, inspection, and to check out this temp issue. These guys told me that they ran a compression test and everything was okay, no leaks or cracks in any hoses so it is a faulty turbo. They also stated that in idle, there seems to be intermittent white smoke out of the exhaust- coolant burning, obviously).
Drove it from them to a spot nearby to let her cool off because I wanted to see if there was more white smoke.. Driving TO the location, I blew A LOT of white smoke on acceleration, I had the heat blasting the entire time so the temp didn't really rise too much.
I'm hoping it's not the turbo, reading up on these issues in here it could be a number of things, but the ONLY reason why I don't want to spend a fortune on replacing the turbo right now is because one or two mechanics i spoke to today said it's not the turbo, but 3 others said it was...
I have no loss of power, no hesitation, and no abnormal sounds from the turbo. Actually, she sounds amazing. I don't however thing it's a head gasket because the dipstick and oil cap aren't milky.
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I have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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My Snapper mower has a 11.5 hp B&S OHV engine that was filled with 5W20 oil for storage over the winter to enable me to start it occasionally in the cold weather to keep the fuel system from gumming up. Today I fired it up and decided to cut the yard but after 10 minutes the engine began to smoke and lose power, eventually stalling. The oil level was OK and after leaving it to cool a few minutes I checked the plug and it was loaded with oil so I changed it and the engine started but smoked. I drove it to my shop and adjusted the valves and drained the oil which ran out like water. After filling with HD 30 oil it started on the first pull and I finished mowing the yard, about half an hour, with no problem.
The light oil was apparently too thin for the air cooled engine and B&S does specify 30 weight when the temperature is above 40*. Hopefully there was no damage done to the engine. I will be much more careful about the oil viscosity from now on.
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I have a very very strange thing happening in my 2004 vw jetta 1.8t. at random times the car will lose boost and throttle response. I am not sure what it could be I have replaced quite a few parts and it still happens.
No matter what speed or how much boost the car will just drop pressure and the throttle goes numb. For example I will be cruising on the highway around 80 on 0lbs of boost or a few and then the throttle just quits, at that point I can push the throttle to the floor and no response.
To fix it I have to lift my foot off the throttle completely and then go back on to rebuild boost or pressure. There is no pattern on when it happens, its happened from 10mph to 90mph and it happened ins 8lbs of boost or in vacuum. When I lose boost or pressure the boost gauge drops the needle to the bottom of vacuum at like 30.
Things I've replace:
- diverter valve
- n75
- throttle pedal
- checked throttle body sensors
- replacing maf this week
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I bought a 2004 power stroke with 100k miles, ran well for 15k miles then started having low power for first few minutes to no power, regular oil changes and fuel filters at 5k, checked FICM 48v KOEO , 48v cranking, new batteries just in case. Oil pressure when cranking at 50% of gauge , even crank cycle will jump when trying to fire, no loss of coolant, block heater working, it did start a few a few times and blew white smoke until warm then full power but the last 2 times I did get it to start it ran for less than 1 minute and died could not restart.
Fresh fuel additive in both fuel and oil for stickshion, have read hundreds of posts but not seeing similar problems no codes. With key cycle 120 amp draw on passengers battery for approx 25 seconds 48 amp on right battery glow plugs good due to the amp draw? So I think my FICM is good, good oil pressure cranking, the oil pump should be good, ICP good? Because of gauge coming up? Everything I read says black smoke for EGR soot issues. Not sure where to look.
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it's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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I started my car up this morning for work and I noticed it sounded a little different almost like a little more gurgle then usual. I walked behind the car and saw white smoke coming from the left exhaust. The smoke wasn't incredibly white like a cloud but was definitely noticeable i think it smelt like gas or oil I'm not sure (stuffy nose got me some allergies) . After about 10 ish seconds everything was back to normal. What could this be if anything? Hopefully nothing tho.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I have a 7.3 Excursion, 234K Miles, 4R100 Transmission. Today I was in a rush to take one of our dogs to the vet, when I hit overdrive going up a hill, it almost sounded like a clicking noise and I was steadily losing power. I came to a stop sign and put it in park and it started to develop a constant lope that was rough. Whenever I would step on the gas it would put out white smoke which it has never done before. I was able to take it a couple miles before it did the same thing except this time it shut itself off.
Recently I have been having transmission issues as it feels im losing first gear. A while back I noticed it would idle slightly in park every now and then. A couple days before this happened, I came to a stop and my truck started loping slightly and first gear IN DRIVE felt very very weak. I have recently replaced the cam position sensor as well as the ICP sensor. I'm at a loss, I plan to do a ZF6 transmission swap very soon and this is only making me panic even more.
I never dog the truck, take it mudding, etc. Oil is changed every 3-4,000 miles. I did however get it scanned a while back and I believe two codes came up for two pistons, also did an injector buzz test and they all sounded strong.
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