Golf IV / Jetta IV :: While Driving Instead Of Shifting Up Accelerator Becomes Unresponsive
Jun 17, 2014
I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0L (MKIV, of course) that has been giving me some trouble lately. Very seldom while driving in the city I'll notice that instead of shifting up, the car will lose power and the accelerator becomes unresponsive. Until lately this only happens for a second or two before things go back to normal, but I just got home from work and it seemed like the engine stalled.
I was going about 40 mph or so and suddenly the accelerator stopped responding, but I looked at my dash and the battery light was on. As I pulled over and attempted to slow down I found that the brakes were also very tight. Eventually I came to a stop and restarted the car, and the rest of the drive was uneventful, but it's got me worried.
I've had a couple of CELs pop up in the past so I invested in a VAG-COM reader. I just read the codes and here's what I got:
16804
18613
00529
Is this a transmission problem? Are these codes indicating separate issues or are they all connected?
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Engine runs fine. The pedal is unresponsive. Car will sometimes full rev when taking foot off the break, will sit at idle at other times (no indication as to when or why)
List of codes: 420, 38, 141, 226, 2133, 2128, 223, 121
I know some of the codes are from when I had a cracked ignition coil and moister caused misfiring which lead to something wrong with the cat.
Here's my main question. After everything I've read I've boiled it down to two things to try. There was one obscure post about the break light switch causing similar problems and everything else points to the ECU. I checked my O2 line for damage as that is what seems to be the most common problem of shorting out the ECU and it looks and feels perfect. So I took my ECU off, just to have a look, and the driver side plug seems to have corrosion. This was an immediate red flag, but I have found ZERO information on it. I don't know if I'm looking for the right thing or what. SO, ECU corrosion, break light switch...
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So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
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Took it to the dealer today to have the seatbelt replaced, which they did. As I was leaving the lot I noticed the airbag light was still blinking so I went back. Tech brought out the OBDII and ran a scan. No errors. Went through all menus and cleared everything only to realize his OBDII had the wrong 'code card' in it. So he went and got the right card and came back, ran it again, still no errors. Went through all menus again and cleared everything including what he called an old error but not one related to the airbag. As he was walking away to go get his manager the light... just went off on it's own. (Think it was mad at the tech, NOW I know why.. then I didn't.)
On the way home, on the highway, in Texas, going uphill... the accelerator suddenly becomes unresponsive. The car starts slowing down, 65, 60, in a 70 where everyone passing me is doing 80... So, I goosed the gas, revved it over 4k and ... the gear shifted and the car sped up... WTF?! Now this car ONLY has 83k miles on it. It was mint. No problems AT all, ran smooth as butter until I let the dealer touch it. NOW, it drives like gramma's jalopy and I can't for the life of me figure out what the heck the seatbelt has to do with the other issue but THAT drastic of a change is NOT coincidence.
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So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...
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Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
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I've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
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My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.
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2.0 Jetta with AEG engine.
I've been plagued by a belt squeak for several months now that only seems to occur when I'm in motion and let off the accelerator. I'm thinking it's the timing belt so I took the top cover off to have a look. What I found is the belt is a bit off center on the top sprocket, although it doesn't look frayed and isn't hanging off the edge.
I found that the tensioner seems to wiggle slightly when I try moving it by hand. It doesn't look like it wobbles when the car is running, but I've never been able to see in the engine compartment when the squeak occurs. The belt also appears to have some shine on a line down the center. Pictures attached.
FWIW, I checked for play in pulleys on the aux belt and found none. What's everyone's opinion on the tensioner and the condition of the belt? The belt has 52,000 miles on it.
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So my daughter has a 2006 120,000 miles Gen II Prius, she called to tell me she started driving today and although it still shows 2 bars left worth of gas while driving she said it seemed to lack power which leads me to believe that it might be fuel related, she drove a few more blocks and as soon as the battery was all used up the check engine light, traction control light the large red triangle came on then soon after the car shut down and now is unresponsive.
What is possibly wrong with it, the car is about 2 hours away so I have no way of checking the codes or is there a way to check the CEL codes from inside the car.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT SCAB 5.4L 3v Fuel that I drive Daily, it has 280,000 miles on it. While driving to work (70mph) my throttle became unresponsive and it felt like the transmission was downshifting. Made my way to the edge of the highway and placed truck into Neutral, then the engine quit. Tried restarting at which point would not fire. After letting the truck sit (while waiting for a tow) I decided to try to start it. The Truck did start and ran for only about 2 minutes and then quit. The Tow truck finally arrived and I tried to start again with the same problem occurring, stated and ran for about 2 minutes (no throttle response) and died.
Got the truck home and decided to remove the Fuel line from the filter to see if there was fuel flowing, which there was none and no pressure. Replaced the FPDM with a new one, old unit was corroded but not cracked (replaced it once before). Tried to start and would only crank with out any fuel flowing (still had it removed from the filter). Thinking it may be the Fuel Pump but have to drain the tank being that I just filled it this morning before it died. The problem is, how to drain the tank before lowering it if the Fuel Pump is not running??? What the Problem is or how to test Fuel Pump or drain the Tank?
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I got a 2000 vr6 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission. When shifting up or down through the gears it doesn't seem to like going into first and second. All the other gears seem fine. I've tried adjusting the shift cables and changing the gear lube, but nothing seems to work. I've heard of the cable bushings going bad and possibly shot motor mounts ( I'm at 135,000 miles).
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I bought a 2004 2.0 Golf a few months ago and I've been noticing a strange squealing sound.
1. It happens when sitting in neutral or with clutch in for a while (red lights, etc) and when letting the clutch out and giving it some gas in first gear or reverse
2. Lasts only about a second, between 1000-1400 rpm maybe?
3. Never happens between any other shifts, and doesn't seem to happen if I really hit the gas/let clutch out very fast or shift quickly
4. Electrical load, engine hot or cold, A/C on or off, turning wheel all seem to be independent of the noise. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't regardless of these.
5. I've put a few thousand miles on it since I bought it, doesn't seem to be getting any better or worse.
6. Sounds kind of like a pulley/belt squeal, but I'm afraid it could be a throw out bearing or pilot bearing?
I found a lot of references to the clutch pulley on the alternator seizing on mkivs so on a whim I bought a new belt and clutch pulley, but when I went to change them I noticed that my alternator doesn't have a clutch pulley on it. It's the OEM 90A Bosch alternator.
The car has about 135k miles on it but unfortunately I just bought it so I don't have much of a history.
1. Any thoughts on the noise?
2. Should my alternator even have a clutch pulley?
3. I put on a new Goodyear serpentine belt because I thought maybe the old belt was slipping or something (it was in rough shape) but the noise doesn't seem to have changed.
Just as a troubleshooting method, I'm thinking of taking the serpentine belt off completely and trying to replicate the noise in a parking lot, just for a few minutes when the engine is cold.
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I have a 2003 jetta 1.8t. Just recently it hasn't been shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. It will when the transmission is cold but once warmed up it will no longer shift into fourth gear. Just looking for some possible solutions. Going to check the fluid this weekend.
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When I was driving on Friday I noticed that moving into 2nd, 4th, and 6th were "soft." I could hardly feel it engage into those gears at all so I thought maybe I would adjust my linkages. So I adjusted my linkages and while sitting in my drive way everything felt solid. When I took my car for a ride down the street I could feel it engage 1st, 2nd, 3rd no problem but after driving around for a few minutes my 2nd, 4th, and 6th gears felt soft again and then it got worse where I couldn't even shift into those gears anymore.
So my R, 1, 3, 5 all worked fine but didn't have 2, 4, 6. After taking a look at my linkages and I pulled off the selector cable and and shifter cable end. I noticed that on the shifter cable end that it felt wobbly and on the selector cable end it was rock solid. I am just wondering if the shifter cable end being worn out could be my issue? Is the shifter cable end supposed to have a little play in it and be wobbly? Or is there another issue I should be looking for? Here is a video of just how wobbly it is. [URL].....
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So I have a 2.0L jetta with 160,000ish (daily driven) miles. And I'm starting to see a bit of a shifting issue mostly into third. Seems like I get locked out of the gear while shifting from second to third. I have to push it in(catches the "lock out") then I pull back and push forward again and it pops in. I rarely miss gears or grind. And I've noticed only a few times it does it in fourth as well. No grinding (unless I try to force it super hard) just won't let me go into gear.
Also while on subject of gear issues...
When I go into reverse, after the car has been sitting over night or for a longer period ( I would say between 8-14 hours) it will act up, almost like I am trying to drive with the parking brake fully engaged. In order to make it stop such bad behavior I have to rev it higher and it makes a *pop* or *crack* noise. Then it reverses just fine.
I've done a little bit of searching, "Look for a binding in the engine bay" and I have looked and haven't found much.
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OK, I admit I'm driving a new 2016 GTI, but I still have the trusty 1.8T. Fixing some stuff so my daughter can take it over and bring to college.
I replaced both clutch switches, turns out the 1 that prevents the car from starting unless the clutch was pushed in had failed (the spring broke). Since she is new manual tranny driver, wanted to fix this.
Now I've noticed the engine revs hang or increase a bit during shifting. Hmmmm, never observed this in 16 years with the car, and don't think it did it before replacing switches (but not 100% sure), so, I cleaned the throttle body and the sensor in the manifold. as suggested Re-installed and did throttle body alignment with my Ross Tech.
Car definitely idles better and rev hang is not as bad. Good, but not quite right. So, I've read it is supposed to do this, but others say no it isn't not sure. Is this normal or do I need to chase other things?
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My 20th in the past 15k has received all of the following parts: driver axle, both ball joints, driver full tie rod the pass isn't OEM and feels fine, poly control arm bushings, poly sway bar bushings, fk coilovers with new mounts and bearings, and both wheel bearings, and I believe that's it.
The problem is: when you're going down the road, whether you're turning or going straight, if you give it any gas the steering wheel will shift a good 20 to the right and it'll shift the car over to the right but continue going straight. Then when any type of braking occurs, the wheel goes back to center shifting the car back to the left and continue going straight again until I apply the gas again. The steering will also shift if I hit a bump. But it's only to the right. I'm stumped as to what the problem is and its quite dangerous. Power steering is fine, no leaks.
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My transmission has been shifting funny lately in only a couple of the gears. it shifts into drive hard if not warmed up first, and shifts very slow from 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th. I do live in cold weather at the moment and all of these shifting problems go away of are less noticeable once my car has had time to warm up.
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My 2000 Jetta gls vr6 automatic was not shifting into reverse until it warmed up a bit, so I did a filter and fluid change, car level, warm pumped fluid while shifting gears. No problem. Next morning no forward fear, guess I split the gasket by over tighting. Had it towed home. Oh, tried to get to work, adding fluid made it go. Now now gasket and fluid. No gears at all. Generic code reader said electric malfunction on every shift solinoid, torque converter lockout and something about shift timing malfunction. Basically everything connected to ribbon harness. What's up? Did I fry it. Also I have a 2002 triptronic from my 2002 vr6, suppose that's not a bolt on?
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