Golf IV / Jetta IV :: When Idle Smoking White And Burning Smell?
Sep 16, 2014
Searched for days on this, symptoms are when at idle sometimes will smoke white/bluish with a burned smell. Not just a cold start, warm start aswell. Happens someimes when starting in 1st gear getting going a cloud with appear, only sometimes, does not happen all the time. And also cruising on the highway i was told little was visible. Now my turbo hold and boosts full. All new pcv piping. No engine codes. No lights on, was thinking along the lines of turbo seal? Spark plugs are dry aswell. Im stumped.
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2004 V8 - ~62k did the 60k service about 2 months ago. No other problems other than tpms not liking 50 degree swings in temperature. Haven't really had time to examine it, but wife left work this morning at -18F said she was getting a weird smell, no lights, a little smoke when she was stopped. I thought nothing of it.
Went to the garage to leave for work and it was like a dingy night club, fog/smoke everywhere and a strong smell of burning oil. Its supposed to warm up to 20 or so tomorrow, so I'm hoping whatever started leaking seals up.
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Got home today and smelled the "oil burning" smell. Blue smoke, didn't smell like brake pads. The smoke was evident from the right rear wheel. Put her in the garage and pulled the wheel. By the time this was done there was no smoke and no fluid anywhere, but there may not have been when it was smoking either. The drum was hot, the axle housing was not hot until closer to the drum/disc/wheel. The differential was slightly warm. Vent was not plugged. No obvious accumulation of lube or fluid on the inside of the wheel. Plenty of disc pad left. The actuator for the emergency brake that sticks out the back of the brake/plate assembly was super hot.
If I decide to pull the hub/rotor to inspect the brake shoes am I getting in far enough to commit to doing a full hub/bearing/seal inspect replacement? I'm getting old enough to pay a shop for this stuff and save my back, but if it's a no-brainer repair to get new seals I'd like to do it and save some bucks. Might as well do both sides right?
I'll be driving cross-country in June with a slide-in camper and want it done rather than a band aid job. It's never been checked before. 2006 F350 -- 150k miles. I'll keep searching the forum for answers but would like some opinions...
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2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
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My engine bay smells of burning oil after driving for a while. I have cleaned up the engine in order to find the leak. There is some gunky residue on the belt side of the engine but that wouldn't cause the smell.
Crawling under the car I found that there appears to be a leak between the (what I think is) the aluminum intake side of the turbo and the cast iron center. You can see it in the videos below:
[URL] .....
This is the only leak near the exhaust that I can find. Does this mean that the seals inside my turbo are toast and I will need to either rebuild or replace it? What is the best course of action? Rebuild? New OEM Turbo?
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Last night while i was driving my car began to overheat. I could smell coolant burning. I pulled over and opened my hood. The coolant inside the coolant pod was boiling. Some coolant lines were steaming as well. I could also hear a gurgly like noise coming the engine. This is a 1.8t gti
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My 2000 vr6 gti been starting too act up. After about an hour or so of driving the ride gets rough , loses power and it makes this knocking noise . Although when I punch the clutch in the knocking goes away . Besides the knocking going away the rides still pretty rough though . Once it starts this it starts too backfire way louder than it usually does and it throws out this funky smell kind of like burning oil /syrup smell lol .
I really wanna fix the car . When the car does drive good it's no complaints at all . I do know that I have a misfire in cylinder 3 & 4 though and I do have all the codes scanned from the obd2. I've heared of this being the throw out bearing but I'm not completely sure. There's a video to actually hear it. [URL] ....
Obd2 Codes :
P1473
P1432
P0300
P0301
P0306
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Yesterday I made a 3 hour round trip with my car, and on the last leg coming back into town, I noticed my check engine light came on, and I saw white smoke coming from underneath the hood of my car, along with a burning smell. Luckily I was able to make it home just fine. I've googled this issue, some people have suggested coolant leak.
Also, I checked the oil levels today and they appeared to be slightly below the lowest level tick, which could be why it was having issues yesterday. Last time I got an oil change was November of 2015. I'm surprised it's this low considering I normally don't commute farther than a couple miles each day.
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Well my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
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I have an 02 jetta 1.8t just recently put oil in it and it's now pouring white smoke at idle and right around when I'm in 3rd. When parked and running it's puking oil and I have oil sprayed all in the engine bay. I have it sitting now and there's still a drip.
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When my car is stopped/idle I smell burning. However when it is in motion the smell goes away. Other than that my car runs fine. What could this be? My oil change guy told me to just add Lucas Oil Stabilizer and that would eliminate the smell but it has not worked.
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Was driving home just now when my car (2003 Dodge Caravan SE) started acting strange. Stopped at a light, it started going back and forth a little, like the transmission was stopping and starting. As I drove I noticed that it kept doing that when I had the accelerator pressed slightly. When I pressed the accelerator more fully, the problem seemed to mostly (not completely) go away.
When I got home (after driving like that for about 2 miles), it seemed worse. When I stopped the car and had it idling in Park, the engine died. I was able to restart the engine, but it seemed like it was having trouble staying on (though it did for a minute or two until I turned it off).
When I got out of the car, I noticed a bad smell coming from the engine, like burning. Also noticed a loud sound, like knocking. My first thought was that I didn't have any oil. So I checked the oil and the transmission fluid. Both were fine. After about an hour I restarted the car, and it wasn't doing it anymore. Maybe because the car had cooled down?
What this might be or what else I can check?
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I own a 2001 Buick Century Limited that has 208k miles on it. A couple days ago I started the car up at a friends house and noticed that it had a loud rough idle and that the check engine light came on. When I drove the car home, the CEL would flash when I accelerated and I could smell something burning. When I released the gas pedal and coasted, the flashing CEL would return back to a solid state but I could still smell the burning. When I would accelerate, the CEL would start to flash again. Whenever I was stopped at a stop sign, the flashing CEL would again be solid and there would be a loud rough idle along with the same burning smell. Am I looking at an engine replacement or an easy fix? One problem or could it be multiple problems?
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My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
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I've had my 24V off the road for about a year now working on it. I did some wire tucking and what not, nothing major. Now when I go to start it, it won't start and it will make a popping noise from a coil pack and it starts to smoke.
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On the way into work today, I smelled a burning smell in my cabin. Got to work and opened the hood and it's very clearly something burning in the engine bay.
Coolant levels are good (even opened the coolant reservoir and it filled back up a bit, so it doesn't seem there's a coolant leak there), checked the dipstick and oil level seems good. MK6 GTI, just hit 21.5k miles. The only things I can think of are:
-Haven't replaced the cabin filter
-Intake may need to be cleaned? It's been on for about 10-12k and hasn't been cleaned yet.
Might also be just because my senses are heightened because of this, but the engine sounds louder than normal, specifically the lifters sound louder, but might just me being paranoid now. Been hearing about the headgasket possible 2.0 recall that's been bouncing around, so could it be that?
I want to take this to my car guy, but he's about 1.5-2 hours away, so I'm iffy on driving it that far.
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So, last Saturday I took my car into New German Performance and had my ECU flashed to Stage 1. I used it on Saturday and Sunday in 93 mode, but switched back to stock for my commute during the week.
Starting on Tuesday this week, I've noticed that I constantly smell smoke at work and while at home. All of my clothes are smoky. Well, I narrowed it down to my car. When I got home today, I had the gf smell the inside of my car and it indeed smells like smoke and/or exhaust. What could have happened here?
The car has a hair under 33k on the clock and the last time the oil was checked (last Thursday morning I believe) the level was right on max. Of course, I haven't checked it since the tune (I will once the car cools down tonight), but I'm beginning to worry a little here.
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
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Just in the last couple days, after driving for a while, I noticed a strong burning smell immediately as every time I opened my door! It doesn't feel like it's from the engine bay, but more likely from underneath of the car (I could smell it near the rear wheel arch). The smell starts very noticeable and diminishes quickly! BTW, it's a 2015 GTI DSG, 2-month-old, 2700 miles, pure stock. I got a bit concern on this since it never happened before.
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Driving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?
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