Golf IV / Jetta IV :: When Driving For More Than 20 To 30 Minutes Shifting Gears Become Rough
Jul 20, 2015
So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...
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I got a 2000 vr6 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission. When shifting up or down through the gears it doesn't seem to like going into first and second. All the other gears seem fine. I've tried adjusting the shift cables and changing the gear lube, but nothing seems to work. I've heard of the cable bushings going bad and possibly shot motor mounts ( I'm at 135,000 miles).
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I've got an '02 Jetta GLX with a 09a tiptronic. Last year I had to replace one of the shift solenoids. (Car wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. Now I've got an issue with the car slamming between gears, mostly up shifting. I've ordered the n93 solenoid but I've been reading the post with the symptoms. The job is labor intensive and I really don't want to miss anything. Is there another solenoid I should be replacing.
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Got a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
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I have a 2005 2.5 vw jetta.
It has 150,000 miles....the cars been working just fine untill DEC of last year. I had the dealer check the transmission fluid and they said it was low....so they flushed and refilled the transmission oil...they didnt see any metal but that didnt fix the problem.....
Now i have the car not shifting correctly ....theres a delay when shifting in all gears but it is intermittent, sometimes it shifts hard and sometimes you can just baby the throttle and it wont shift as hard.....once on the freeway the car runs fine......but when coming to a stop you can feel the downshifting.....
I figured it has something to do with the valve body....my concern is the dealerships have quoted me 2000$ to replace the valve-body....the cars paid for and was wondering if i should just move onto a different jetta or fix this one?
If i fix the valve body will this jetta have the same issue later? Also i do have the vacuum pump leaking engine oil....not much can this be fixed while doing the valve body job???
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Lately I've been hearing a constant click from what seems to be my chains side of the motor. Tensioners and chains were said to be done around 123k. After I've been driving it for a few minutes I hear the click. I thought it was the trans/ throw out berrying but when i push the clutch in and have it in gear i can still hear the click. It is not rapid like a tensioner like a tick tick tick, its like tick......tick......tick, could this be my top end of my block not receiving enough oil? I have a cracked oil pan, doesn't leak that often but i feel as if that is the source of the problem. Also I feel as if i lose power once i hit about 4300-4400 RPMs could that be because of low oil pressure?
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i have a 05 GTI 1.8T and recently started overheating while driving. for a few months it would overheat if i idled too long but now after driving for 5 minutes it overheats and also wont build any boost. i could hear a hissing sound after i shut the car and thats coming from the flange where the coolant temp sensor is, but is hissing where is mounts to the engine.
update- i replaced the o-ring on the flange, that got rid of the hissing. the no boost must have been due to the engine overheating, but it is still overheating i guess im gonna check the thermostat next.
update 2 - checked thermostat and it is good so I'm at a loss here.
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I have a mk4 Jetta 1.8t. Problem started last night. After I drive for about 15-20 minutes the oil pressure warning light comes on. It doesn't feel any different and my oil is full. Could my pump be going bad? I hear a slight tick near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. But the car idles fine and drives fine too.
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My car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0L (MKIV, of course) that has been giving me some trouble lately. Very seldom while driving in the city I'll notice that instead of shifting up, the car will lose power and the accelerator becomes unresponsive. Until lately this only happens for a second or two before things go back to normal, but I just got home from work and it seemed like the engine stalled.
I was going about 40 mph or so and suddenly the accelerator stopped responding, but I looked at my dash and the battery light was on. As I pulled over and attempted to slow down I found that the brakes were also very tight. Eventually I came to a stop and restarted the car, and the rest of the drive was uneventful, but it's got me worried.
I've had a couple of CELs pop up in the past so I invested in a VAG-COM reader. I just read the codes and here's what I got:
16804
18613
00529
Is this a transmission problem? Are these codes indicating separate issues or are they all connected?
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2011 Elantra Limited, auto, 15,700 miles. Past couple of days I have experienced very rough shifts in all gears. First noticed on Saturday. Drove about 10 miles Saturday morning, then parked until around 4pm. Car started normally but rough shifts for first 5 miles.
It felt like the car would drop out of gear when shifting, then go back into the correct gear. There was definitely a "pause" before it went into gear, like bouncing up a set of stairs. Problem resolved itself and did not reoccur until this afternoon. Car was parked for 1-2 hours. Same rough shifting for 3-4 miles.
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Every so often while driving in the city my car starts shifting rough between 1st-2en and 2en-3rd gears. If I stop; turn off the engine and then restart it stops. The car has 107,000 mi. and the fluid has always been changed as recomended. Do I have a shift selonoid going out somewhere?
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My grand am has a gnarly idle issue. It stalls to turn on and once on it has a very rough idle. When I put the car into drive it stales then just turns off. Drained the heck out of my battery so I was thinking it was an alternator issue but I did a quick test and my alternator seems to be working fine. I did manage to drive my car but once in motion, gears wouldn't shift which has me leading to thinking it can be a transmission issue.
Specs:
2000 grand am
3.4L V6 SE model
automatic
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I just bought the car a week ago 90% of the time it shifts great sometimes shifting very rough and going through the gears way too fast....sometimes its jerky on the interstate as if odd kicking in and out today i jump in cold takes off great get 1.5 miles out and starts slipping the further the more it slips if you let it cool it does just fine again until 1 mile or so and repeats...
Took to auto zone and read fault codes...p0440 evap (expected that one due to its age and mileage 186000)...p0742... stuck on(paper says) tcc commanded off by the ecm-tcc slip detected after off command...p1860..pwm solenoid electrical fault(paper says).. The ecm has detected an improper voltage level on the tcc pwm solenoid circuit...
Fluid level correct and not burnt up although slightly dirty... I have added sea foam to the fluid and what the heck does pwm stand for?
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Well something I never thought would happen with only 14,313 babied miles on my 2013 silver Elantra. I was driving home from my mothers house and I thought I hit a pothole, next I stopped at a stop sign took off and it started shifting very rough through most of the gears. I drove it around for 30 minutes and it was pretty bad. I decided to get it towed, I don't feel like breaking down in it.
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From the other users it seems that almost all are having slipping of gears and rough shifting associated with this code. On mine I'm not getting any slipping or rough shifting...it actually still seems to be driving just fine. The OD light came on and will go away after shutting the truck off and back on...it will then not flash anymore for say a couple of months or so...this has been happening for the past few years every now and again and i never thought much of it. I just made a 2k mile trip and this happened again but this time it threw the p0775 code which is a first.. Is it possibly a very early sign of the sensors going bad.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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