Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Wheel Alignment Required After Replacing CV Joint?
Jan 7, 2015
I need to replace a cv joint on my mk4 golf and was wondering if I will need to get a front end wheel alignment done once I have completed the job...
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Question: after replacing rear shocks on 2009 Altima, does in need a rear wheel alignment? After shocks were replaced on my Altima (without wheel alignment), I drove about 4500 miles. After that the tires were rotated and the back tires installed in front. I immediately noticed loud road noise, mechanic says it is uneven tread wear and I think - this is too much of a coincidence. So should they have done the alignment when they replaced the rear shock absorbers or not?
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My mkiv gti leans a lot to the right whenever I let off the steering wheel. I brought it to a shop and they put it up on a lift and told me that I needed a tie rod flip kit because it's lowered. Long story short, they charged me $70 to look at it for 10 minutes. Do you really need a flip kit for a car lowered on coilovers? I have several friends with lowered cars and none off them have had to do this. I'm thinking it's something else such as a bad shock but I'm no expert.
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I just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
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CodeLink SAS reset is required on a 2014 elantra GT after an alignment?
My car has pulled to the left when the steering wheel is put center, and it is off center to the right when the car goes straight at higher speeds. It has been like this since new, it is only a few months old. I had the alignment done, and it is good, however, the CodeLink was not done, and from what I understand, this is what resets the steering angle sensors and puts the steering wheel to center.
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I think it is cv joint not sure. [URL] .....
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I have a 2005 F-150 4x2 with 4.2L mojo. If I change the struts, is an alignment required due to slight changes in the top mount location? I plan on having it aligned but timing wise I may not be able to get it all done at the same time.
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2nd time for alignment in two weeks. My numbers were WAY different than when I left. Rear toe is out, it was out when I left the first time, but it's out in the opposite direction now. Are those four bolts stretch bolts? Maybe my bushings are shot which are causing the varied numbers??
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Had to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
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2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
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And I have coil overs, I'm not super low but pretty low and every time I get my alignment done they say they can't so anything about the rear having so much negative camber. And it is really eating up the inside sidewalls of my tires like crazy.
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2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.
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So I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
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I've done the center console with cup holders conversion, but I've never bothered installing the rear cup holder, until now. Is it supposed to have this gap?
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I did wheel balance and alignment on my car and it still drives rough at around 105 km 110 and the mechanic said my rear left shaft needs to be replaced. I feel it in the floors like the car shaking a little about around that km.
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Took delivery of car and alignment is way off. Steering wheel is turned left when car is straight. The dealership is trying to charger me for a alignment. Car has 2500 miles on it and came from factory this way.
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Our 2000 Subaru Outback has just over 200k. We want a vehicle that is safe, but do not want to put a lot of money into this. At the last service the dealership said the left ball joint boot and power steering rack boots need to be replaced and the rear differential bushings are broken or loose. All of this would be > $1000 to repair. They said that the ball joint could get dirty and fail catastrophically and be a safety issue. Is that right or will the steering start to feel rough beforehand? Can we drive it safely?
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Are the bolt and nut holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing the only things that need to be replaced when removing the strut? Anything else I should change while I'm in there? So far I'm just doing 034 strut mounts and bearings.
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Today I replaced my thermostat and thermostat housing. I happened to be unfortunate and cracked my dipstick tube (probably should be replaced at 135k miles anyways). I know I can get it at the dealership, but it's pretty far out of my way and wouldn't mind just ordering it from ecstuning or something.
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Someone before me used the wrong thing to scrape ice off their mirror. I am having a hard time finding replacement glass for my side mirror. I only need a driver-side, and I would like it to have the convex outside portion like it does now. That said, I wouldn't mind getting new glass for both sides.
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My 2003 Jetta sunroof drains aren't clogged. Nor are they simply cracked. They don't seem to be connected. I tried snaking them out with trimmer line- the thing took like 15 ft of line without resistance, from either end. I suspect they had a mechanic who tried to use compressed air to blow them out, and may have blow the line off its nipple instead.
So I can't install a new, smaller line inside the old one. There's no way to fish the line from one end to the other.
I'm doing the headliner anyways. I can replace them, but I need to know what type of tubing is actually used. Plus, how that tubing would go down the A-pillars and meet up with the rubber nipple? Can that thing be pulled out from the outside of the door jamb?
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