Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Vibration When Engine At 3500 RPM (in Any Gear)
Jan 15, 2015
I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
View 1 Replies
So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
View 10 Replies
Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
View 15 Replies
My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
View 15 Replies
It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
View 1 Replies
So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
View 11 Replies
I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
View 9 Replies
Two control arms and a passenger side cv axle I get a bad engine vibration @3800 rpm. Feels like solid motor mounts. It goes away @4500 rpm.
The old cv axle was making noise from the inner joint and the control arm bushings were broken apart.
The engine vibration was not there with the old parts.
View 16 Replies
When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
View 3 Replies
The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
View 8 Replies
So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
View 2 Replies
I am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
View 2 Replies
So I am new to the VW TDI, and I am hearing some noises I am not used to...
First noise, when the transmission is in neutral, clutch pedal not depressed, I hear a noise from the clutch (makes the TDI sound louder than it really is), if I put the car in gear, the noise goes away (even if I put it in neutral and keep the pedal pressed in), sounds like the pressure plate or clutch could be making that noise, is this normal or not ?
Second noise, when accelerating (especially accelerating hard) above 3500 rpm or so the engine makes a weird muted sound, I can't really describe it, maybe like bubbles of air in water would do, but muted ... it's a weird sound !
View 3 Replies
I recently got a 2001 Mk4 GTI from carter Volkswagen in Seattle with 113k on it last friday (it did come with the car fax). I drove it back home to Wenatchee and it ran fine and is still running fine... I think. Today as i was coming home from school the check engine light came on when i was in 3rd gear and the car just wasn't driving as smooth as it was the first day (it felt as if i was driving over really really small bumps or like something was loose and was moving around a lot).
When I would get to a red light and be in first gear the light went off but it came back on as i would shift into 3rd and stayed on when i got into 5th. It recently had its oil changed at 112,000 miles. Also when the car is just idling the tachometer is going up and down a little bit, it is idling at about 600-700 rpms. I got this car because i didn't want to have a car with problems any more (I had an 88 Isuzu Trooper before).
View 14 Replies
01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
View 6 Replies
Bought a Mk4 1.8T gti last year had only about 75,000 on it and drove it for about 10,000 miles. The check engine light went on about 2 months ago and the code read 3rd gear incorrect ratio. It still rode fine until about a week ago when it started slipping. Brought it to the local transmission guys in my town and got a quote at about $3,000-$3,500 to have the transmission rebuilt. The transmission is a tiptronic automatic 6-speed.
View 1 Replies
Just got a 1996 Jeep cherokee with right hand drive, 73,000 miles. Drove it less than 2500 miles when had problems with it shifting out of first gear. Would rev up the rpms to 3500 to 4500 and then a large jolt before going into next gear. Took to transmission specialist who was able to get it to act up., Now he tells me that the transmission is an import??? (was manufactured here in states and sent to Japan) Can't get the codes on the machine to tell him what is wrong with the tranny., says the codes say it is ok. Now what do I do. I need this car as I am a mail carrier and it was bought for that purpose.
View 8 Replies
Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
View 9 Replies
In addition to having some play in all gears, I am having vibration only in 4th. I put brand new oil in the trans, and I intend to do the cable adjustment and new bushing next weekend. I am concerned that this will not fix the problem though. It only happens in 4th and in addition to vibration, when alternating from being on the throttle to not i can see and feel the lever kick forward a bit (when off the gas) and snap back when i get back on the throttle. It has never actually popped out of gear, but it is definitely not normal.
View 14 Replies
When I shift from first to second gear, especially when the car is still cold, I get a vibration(?) feeling through the shifter. I'm not shifting hard but not slow either. It's definitely not a grind but it only happens when shifting from first to second.
FYI- The car has ~550 miles on it.
View 1 Replies
