Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Vibration At 2000 - 2500 Rpm From Inside / Under Engine Bay
May 6, 2014
I am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
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VW Golf 2000 2.0 GLS engine auto. 158,000 km
Observation 1: The coolant flange broken 3 times, which appear to be caused by pressure inside.
Observation 2: I drove it today to see the problem. During normal driving upper hill, the temperature turned to be higher than normal. 1 or 2 minutes later after red light, I turned off the engine. And then driving for 2 minutes after the green light, the temperature read appeared to go back to normal (a tiny bit higher than normal). Further driving 5-7 minutes, the temperature reading went to the high end again. So I stopped, opened the engine cover and can hear water boiling sound inside the engine. The coolant in the expansion tank was much higher than normal (above the maximum). The coolant is Prestone (not G12).
I would guess that coolant is not flowing inside. But the problem appears to occur randomly. A water pump issue? (replaced at 90,000km) Or could be the thermostat? Why cannot the pressure be released automatically?
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I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
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The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
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Long story short, over torqued the top two stretch bolts and destroyed the threads. We helicoil'ed both holes and put the bolts back in. That was about 4 months ago.
Today both bolts snapped not while moving. We dolly'd the car home and bought a replacement bracket, however all three bolts along the bottom that go into the transmission housing broke off inside.
I'm a tad stuck at this point. I could drill and tap new holes over the existing, but i question whether that is a good idea. My other thought was to get 3 of the larger stretch bolts that go in the top, completely drill out the three that are broken and tap the big ones in. This thought would also require drilling the bracket to make the larger bolts fit.
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My 2004 VW Jetta TDI has a pulsing sensation at 2000 and 2500 rpm. It is a manual transmission. We've recently replaced the clutch/flywheel and the fuel filter. The problem has been progressively getting more common. Injectors, turbo, fuel filter problems?
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Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
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I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
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Two control arms and a passenger side cv axle I get a bad engine vibration @3800 rpm. Feels like solid motor mounts. It goes away @4500 rpm.
The old cv axle was making noise from the inner joint and the control arm bushings were broken apart.
The engine vibration was not there with the old parts.
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My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
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The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
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On my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
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Light rattle/vibration. Probably won't be able to get a video for a while but it seems to only happen when in gear and decelerating between roughly 2-2.5k. Maybe I'll just take to dealer.
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So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
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When I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
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Sometimes (most of the time) whenever i turn on my car, there's sort of like a clicking noise (really loud, if you get out of the car you can still hear it), push the clutch in and its gone. The other times when it doesn't start right away, the car warms up and the noise is present. I don't know if its normal for Volkswagens to do that, But i didnt notice it when i got the car. Im not sure if its the engine, trans or clutch. At first i thought it was my A/C because whenever i would turn it off the noise would go away.
It wasn't the A/C, it started to go out, don't have money to replace it, so now i always leave it off. the noise stopped for a little while but eventually came back. It only happens when the car is idling, start to accelerate, it goes away until i come to a stop again.
It's a 2000 Golf 1.8t 5 speed manual.
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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My daughter's 2000 Jetta with a 2L has an engine light and codes that state Misfire on 1 and 4. It is intermittent as it only misfires once in a while.. She is in Rolla MO, and I am in Detroit MI. A couple of years ago the car died when she was home and I found a swollen/cracked coil pack. I replaced it with an aftermarket. The plugs and wires were replaced about 30k ago with OEM parts. I am tempted to have the son in-law replace the coil pack with a Bosch unit.
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2000 VW GOLF 2.0L, manual, ~190k miles
Driving down the highway my CEL started flashing and the engine power dropped at the same time. I drove two miles to my destination and the idle was very rough and the power was still very low. The codes were P0300, 0301 and 0304.
The coil was replaced about 2 years ago. The plugs have never been replaced. About 2 weeks ago I had a solid CEL with the codes P1255 and P0422... I purchased a new ECT Sensor but did not yet make time to install it.
Could everything be related to the ECT? Or do you think there are multiple issues?
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