I own a 2001 VW GTI VR6 and whenever I go over bumps, it is very very rough, feels like my car went into a 5 inch pothole. Now I have been doing research as to what the problems could be, but i just recently installed HotBits suspension, top mounts were changed, rear axle bushings were changed, along with my sway bar bushings.
View 2 RepliesHave creaking windows when driving around, especially when pulling to drive ways or going over speed bumps? Curious if there is a fix for this or if maybe my car needs to be looked at? The windows function properly and I don't have any issues with them except they just make a lot of creaking noises while driving.
View 11 RepliesSo I replaced my rear coilovers on my gli assuming the driver side was broken because when over bumps it would make a loud banging sound as if it was bottoming out but after replacing them i have the same problem.
View 1 RepliesHave a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
View 3 RepliesI did my pads and rotors this weekend. On the fronts I had some difficulty with the passengers side retaining clip. It was stuck in on the bottom. I wound up bending it out of place trying to get it off, and eventually just removed the caliper without it.
I took it out for it's first regular drive today and there is a rattling noise when the passenger's side goes over bumps (could be front or back, hard to say). I have theorized that the clip is deformed enough that when it gets jostled, it bumps out onto the rim which makes it go twang (which would be consistent, it's a relatively high pitched rattle. I'm going to look at it tomorrow, but I'm not sure what I should actually do. Can I just clip it off? What purpose does it serve? I might be able to get it out with WD40 and bend it in to shape.
A clunk sound coming from the front end. Drivers side and Passenger side. Not really a metal on metal sound. The problem started after coilover install. The sound occurs while braking and accelerating over bumps. So what I've replaced:
-Strut Mounts and Bearings
-Lower control arm bushings (R32 bushings)
-Drivers Side CV axle
What I've checked:
-Tie rod ends have no play
-Ball joints have no play.
-I have no sway bar, so not the sway bar bushings.
-Its not the axle hitting the frame.
Could possibly be the dog bone mount but when I installed the 1' motor mounts I saw no issue but could possibly be the bushing. feel the clunk in my foot as well.
MK4 2000 Jetta 2.0 5speed With Raceland Ultimo Coilovers (Junk)
I own 2001 2.0 Golf (first car) and lately as I drive I constantly hear this noise, it's very obnoxious, sounds like a washing machine going with a hard object in it. It's not continuous, but it doesn't happen rarely. Whenever I go over any bump, the slightest crack etc. I'm guessing it has something to do with the suspension? I'm not really sure since I'm still learning about cars...
View 1 RepliesMy passenger side has been making thud noises on a number of occasions on my 01 Jetta 1.8t:
1. When I go over bumps, the front passenger side will make a loud thud noise.
2. When I take my foot off the brake, there will be a loud thud from the front passenger side as well.
3. When making left hand turns and I begin to turn the wheel back to return it to its original position, there is a thud coming from the front passenger side as well.
It does not continuously click like a bad CV joint would. All these symptoms came at the same time period.
My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
View 6 RepliesBut I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
After putting on a o2 spacer my CEL cleared. I finally got some downtime so I parked the car in the garage to chase electrical gremlins, do the timing belt, and replace the downpipe and catalytic converter. Lately it's been sounding like I have quite the exhaust leak so that spurred me into doing a little quicker. Long story short I got the cat out and after looking inside of it I see this .
The inside of the cat is completely bare, not even a remnant of any form of honeycomb. So was this a hollowed out cat or did everything deteriorate and blowout. I was assuming my cat was clogged because of my rough idle lately... but looks like I was dead wrong.
Now for additional info.
2001 Jetta 2.0 AEG 220K miles
Previously had a CEL for the catylst below threshold
I can't currently check my codes because the OBD2 isn't reading/connecting, but that's not related.
I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
View 1 RepliesFor the last couple years the engine light would come on solid every once in a while - read codes for the thermostat - my father-in-law checked it out (mechanic) and said it was fine and that the Jetta was being too liberal with it's engine light.
Engine light recently has started to come on more often. Started using premium gas - CEL went away for a few months. But now it keeps coming on, and once in a while flashes and the car runs rough. But it's intermittent - it'll go and come. Codes are:
16804 - catalyst system bank 1: efficiency below threshold
16684 - error in mapped cooling system
16685 - cylinder #1 misfire detected
Seems to me that the cylinder misfire would be the main issue here. I've changed the spark plugs pretty recently. Catalytic converter not too long ago also. I haven't changed the coil pack since I first got it like 6-7 years ago. With all the issues these years of VW's have had with coil packs, I'm fairly certain I need a new coil pack. O2 sensor?
2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
View 5 Replies2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
I have a 2000 jetta 2.0, and the idle seems to rough and when I start the car it seems like I might stall.
View 9 RepliesWhen I first start me car up, doesn't matter the outdoor temperature it idles terrible jumping up and down. When I go to put it in first gear and attempt to pull out it's very jumpy/jerky because of this rough idle. Once I drive a little bit if I stop it will idle fine. This problem seems be slightly worse when it's wet/raining/humid.
Its throwing codes P1128 Manf Control p0300 multiple misfires and then p0301,0302,0303,0304 which is misfire for that individual cylinder. Also my oil light blinks once in awhile, think that could possible be sep issue though.
I changed plugs, the old ones were really white... I believe that means running lean?
Put in new coil/wires
Gas Filter
Mass air flow sensor
Changed 02 sensors
Also did the seafoam treatment, none of it seemed to work...
Though about possibly changing temp sensor next. I hope it has nothing to do with fuel injectors....
2000 Jetta 2.0l 4cy AEGengine