I've had my 24V off the road for about a year now working on it. I did some wire tucking and what not, nothing major. Now when I go to start it, it won't start and it will make a popping noise from a coil pack and it starts to smoke.
View 6 RepliesHaving issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
2004 TB EXT, 4.2L I-6. Steady misfire on a single cyl. Changed spark plugs, (installed A/C Delco Iridium, 41-103). Fired it up, and miss was gone for about 20 seconds, then came back. Scan turned up P0301, Cyl #1 misfire. I picked up a coil pack, but before installing it, is there any diagnostic tests I can do on the connector, or any tester for coil packs? Not wanting to install this $80 part, (rendering it non-returnable), and have it make no difference. Hoping to at least be able to check for proper voltage supply and trigger signal at coil connector, if possible. Also, any checks I can perform on the injector harness? Thinking it may be one or the other. Or should I swap coil pack to another cylinder, and see if problem moves with it?
View 2 RepliesI am trying to get my spark plugs changed and having a hard time trying to figure out how to get the coil packs out. I have done some research already but couldn't really find anything solid for the GS 460 specifically. Many people had useful information on the other GS models (300,350 etc) but since the 460 is not as common, I couldn't really find anything.
I read the guys use pry bars to wedge the motor a little to have extra clearance to pull the coil packs out but it seems the LS has a little more room to work with. On the GS 460 however, it is pretty tight and even using a pry bar I really do not believe the coil pack will have room to be remove completely.
I've decided to jump on the DIY bandwagon a do my own 60K service. I've found the great write-ups on the oil changes, and even the spark plug removal; but need a detailed explanation or even pictures of how to remove the coil packs to the plugs; I don't want to break anything.
View 3 RepliesAfter changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
View 1 RepliesI have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
View 1 RepliesChanged the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
View 14 RepliesI was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
Searched for days on this, symptoms are when at idle sometimes will smoke white/bluish with a burned smell. Not just a cold start, warm start aswell. Happens someimes when starting in 1st gear getting going a cloud with appear, only sometimes, does not happen all the time. And also cruising on the highway i was told little was visible. Now my turbo hold and boosts full. All new pcv piping. No engine codes. No lights on, was thinking along the lines of turbo seal? Spark plugs are dry aswell. Im stumped.
View 16 RepliesDriving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?
I had taken my engine into the shop and had to have to engine replaced, I would have done it myself and would have saved a bunch of money, however I did not have the time. So I had the same exact engine placed into my MK3 from an old Passet, the only issue I'm having now is the sounding of a misfire on one of the plugs..
Only thing is, all plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm thinking the Coil pack is on it's way out the door. The mechanic said it was the original coil pack so that would make sense. It's a 1997 2.8L 6cyl engine.. I'm looking into purchasing a new pack, and on a website that I had been using a lot lately, only had MK4 coil packs.. Can I replace an MK3 pack with an MK4? Would i have to change the plugs and wires again?
I'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
View 6 Replies2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
View 3 RepliesI have got a 5 door 2002 Golf 1.6l petrol, manual transmission with 190k kilometers on the clock. It has been playing up recently and the authorized VW garage is clueless, but still happy to charge for a miserable job...
The "symptoms" are always the same: I can start the car no problem. Plenty of water coming out of the exhaust and EPC light comes on, no power transmission (or very little). In this state, the engine runs irregular. Before all this happens, you can tell there will be a problem (this is not super obvious), as the car does not run smoothly in neutral, especially when it is at a a hill You might get away with another 50k but that's it.
Breakdown 1: Called out road side assistance and got it towed. Volkswagen dealer retrieved the error code P1564 and they replaced the throttle and some of the contacts of the throttle. (Costs 800 GBP)
Breakdown 2: However, 300 km later, same problem as before road side assistance retrieved error code P0638. The memory was reset and it did run perfectly fine for a short while (2000 km).
Breakdown 3: As before, error message P1564 was read. This time they thought there was a problem with the coil in cylinder 2 and replaced it (250 GBP) - also the one in cylinder 1 as "old". Picked up the car and it was not running smoothly in neutral and it eventually broke down after only 90 km.
What to get changed next? What is the real root of the problem here?
I am looking into buy a 2009 vw touareg 2.5 tdi, i heard that it has a smoking problem and it's hard to start, the turbo was changed and it still smoked. The pulled the head thinking that the block was worn however the problem was diagnosed to be bad valve stem and guides. Where online i get these to buy, ecstunning doesn't seem to have it.
View 6 RepliesMy wife's 2011 Volkswagen Jetta (2.0 I believe) is misfiring again. We took it to the dealership about 6 months ago and they said that the ignition coil had gone bad. They replace the ignition coil and said that the plugs needed changing as well. I went to Auto Zone and got some decent plugs and changed them myself at home without much problem. It seemed to work with the problem (although it didn't seem to completely fix it) for a while, but it just recently went back to misfiring. The current symptom is that it seems to misfire when the car is warming up, but misfires less when the car is warm.
The dealership says that the plugs that we got were not recommended by the dealer (they recommended Bosch) and that they need to be replaced. I think this is BS and it is not going to fix the problem.
I have a 07 camry 4 cylinder with about 80k miles on it. Now on cold starts i started to notice that it will have a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust then it will go away right away and when i drive it there is no smoke and the car drives fine.
I did some research and Im thinking that it is the valve seals. Now my question has tried to sea foam it and then run thicker oil to see it it will stop the smoking? or will i just have to replace the valve seals?
I gunned it from a dig the other day and my car started smoking and leaking red fluid like crazy! I thought it was my tranny so I pulled over let it cool down and called VW roadside assistance. I brought it to the dealer and they said it was my torque converter seal that was ruined and now i have to wait for my baby until Monday... just wondering which intake should i get for my 2.5er to negate effects such as that?
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