Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VR6 Will Not Start / Just Cranking - No Communication To ECU
Jun 4, 2014
I have a Mk4 GTI with the 24v vr6. Car wont start, just cranking for days. This all happened a week ago. I was at work, went on lunch at 12 and drove home to eat, come back at 1 and park it. 4 o clock I get off, try to start my car and nothing. Just cranking no turn over. Ive had no prior problems with this car, other than some misfires from 2 different coils, which I've replays 2 of them.
Car has absolutely no spark. Here's the parts I've regretted throwing at it because of this
-Coolant temp sensor
-Spark plugs
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel pump relay
I thought for sure it would of been the crankshaft sensor but I put it in and got nothing. I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. Finally got my code read with a vagcom last night and got these 2 codes
01177 no communication to ecu
01314 no communication to ecu
I also get no CEL when turning the key on "ON" which tells me ecu.
So I've kind of narrowed it down to 3 things, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something else though. I think it's either the ECU, relay 428 for ecu, or wiring on the ecu. I swapped in a working BDF ecu and got nothing. I figured it would at least start and then cut off because of the immobiliser, but maybe im wrong. I know when my key imobiliser died it started and then cut off, maybe with a different ecu that's not married to the car is different and wont start, I am not sure. how this works.
So after the ecu swap didnt work I started reading wires. Going off the diagram here [URL] .....
I have found the following
a) pins 1/2 for ecu ground are OKAY read 12v
b) pin 21 read 12v
c) pin 3 would go to about .12 while cranking. idk what it is supposed to be
d) pin 23, which is ground to the relay 428, read .01, which is the same reading i got off the ground for the relay spot
e) pin 62 gave me nothing with the car off
So right now my concern is kind of on the relay 428. I don't know what it is supposed to read but that seems kind of off for .12v power while cranking and .01 ground. What should these readings be? should i be reading them while cranking?
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I have a 2001 Golf GLS that normally starts on a dime.
It's already had replaced:
New Starter - 11/2/12Ignition Coil / Plugs - 5/22/13Rebuilt Alternator - 5/9/14New Battery - July 2015
The other day, nothing happened when trying to start her, no cranking or anything. The lights work, battery is good.
Yesterday, I depressed the clutch all way to the floor and it started.
Not sure if it's related, but I'd like to trouble shoot before I take it to a shop who's going to want to replace everything.
Car has 154,445 miles. Not original owner, so don't know how they drove it. We got it with 150k
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I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :
-fuel pump-
-fuel pump relay-
-coils-
-spark plugs-
-crank position sensor-
-fuses-
the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)
no fuses blown
fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)
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Took the emission test at two different facilities last week, both test failed with an error saying "OBD Communication Failure".
This is a 7 years old car, with 63K km, nothing has been changed on this car, it still has the original wiper blades .
I went to a VW dealership today (Toronto) and this is what they did:
- Performed ODIS diagnostics, results were ok, no DTC,s in the system
- Performed a drive clean, aborted due to communication error
- Performed technical diagnostics cap discharge system, ok.
- Tested ECM ok
- Performed basic wiring test, ok.
- Next step was to remove the cluster and perform 1598 pin out diagnostic - This is where I quit.
I assume at this point I need to go through drive cycle procedure since all codes have been cleared at VW, if it's possible that there is an issue only when generic scan tools (Clean Drive OBD test systems) are used, issues with Drive Clean system software, or there is something else?
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I have a friend who Just picked up a 2001 GTI 1.8T (auto) and it has a Check Engine Light, but will not communicate with the scan tool. It does have an aftermarket radio, and I did unplug it for giggles, but still no comunication. the K line has 8V on it now.
Is there something IM missing here thats a common problem?
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I've done as much research as possible, why my Jetta won't start. Here's what happened. I've had the car for 11 months now, put in a new clutch, timing belt, water pump, cool packs, valve cover gaskets, 3" stainless downpipe, and rear springs when I got the car. My rear 02 sensor wire was hanging down below the car, after the downpipe installation. I didn't think much of it until the car died going down my driveway on a rainy day (Had a CEL for a vacuum leak) but right when it died I threw a scanner at it and I got a "no communication with ECM" message.
Cranks but doesn't start and CEL doesn't come back. I did some research and found out that my o2 sensors are in the same circuit or system. Well I found that 2 wires from the rear o2 sensor had shorted out and caused my car to die. I checked the 100 and 428 relays under the hood and they click like normal and seem to be working fine, pulled apart ecm and all looks well and so I reassembled it. The 409 fuse under the dash had just a tiny bit of soot or something covering a few of the prongs so I took the black plastic cap off of it and everything looks ok. Reassembled and reinstalled. Put a new crankshaft position sensor in it. Still nothing. None of the fuses in the side panel are blown either. I'm scratching my head on this one.
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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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My Jetta makes a clicking/clanking noise when I turn my steering wheel from standstill. I was told it was my CV joints. So I replaced them and its still making the noise. I was told then it was my struts/shocks. Is this true? The sound is coming from the front driver side wheel. Also, when looking at this tire. I noticed that while this one does have some wear it is even throughout the tire. However, this tire has more wear than the others. The others look brand new.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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Ok so I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pumps when I turn the key to on and when I crank it it's not pumping gas ..
Changed the relay
Changed the crank pos sensor
I'm at a loss what would cause the fuel pump not pump when cranking?
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I've had an intermittent problem on my DSG GTI. It will crank about 5 - 10 seconds before it turns over. It doesn't happen all the time. I've also noticed it stalling out after start up occasionally.
After several trips to my lame dealer they can't find anything wrong or duplicate the problem.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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So I swapped an R motor into my 20th anniversary GTi. It idles fine as soon as I rev it and the idle comes back down it starts breaking up and I get a code for exhaust flap no communication. Of course, there is no communication since I don't have one. Is there a way to code this out or to trick the ECU to make it think its there? As soon as i clear the code the car runs fine, even if I just turn the car off and back on, it runs fine.
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I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
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About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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04 Gli 1.8t 6 speed. When I go to start my car and turn the key nothing happens . No clicking no cranking nothing. All my lights work radio works everything. Would a bad starter cause this? I can jump my car and it works fine.
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I am having trouble with my car not starting, when turning the key nothing happens. I have replaced the battery and have even tried to push the car and do a rolling start could not get it going. I am assuming that if i can't do a rolling start that rules out the starter, is that correct? I also verified all fuses and changed the fuel pump relay.
I am leaning towards an electrical problem (ground/short circuit). I have a Bentley manual and VCDS tool, how to diagnose the electrical problem and pinpoint the issue.
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So i have a mk4 jetta vr6, just did my motor swap went smooth... The car starts runs, when i shut my motor off and go to start it again when it is warm/hot.... it doesnt want to start.. just keeps turning n turning.... I have been through a couple of threads people recommended to change the coolant temp sensor... been there done that yesterday.... n no results thus far... same problems... the car has been sitting for a year since i had done any work to it...
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Cracked my oil pan somehow on the way home. I didn't notice it at first because I didn't go out to start it till the following evening. I went out to let it warm up for 5 minutes that evening and it started perfectly fine. I went back in the house to grab a couple of things, and i could here a loud ticking so i run out side to shut the car off and just as i get to the car it dies. so i push it into the shop and of course i notice the huge splotch of oil on the gravel. It sat in the shop for close to a month, as I got busy with school, and what not, I didn't get a chance to replace the oil pan.
I finally replaced the oil pan on Friday night, there was no metal bits or shavings in the old oil pan. it wont start. everything turns on in the car just fine. It just wont start. Battery is at 12.6 v all the grounds are solid no corrosion. The car tries to start, but the starter will maybe turn over once or twice and then stop.
Is the Motor pooched or is there something I'm missing.
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Last year I had an issue with starting my 1.8t Jetta Gli. Every couple of weeks, the car wouldn't start unless I keep trying or come back after a couple of hours. I then thought it was the cranks sensor and had it replaced. Unfortunately, the problem is back! The idle seems a little jumpy, car isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. It also doesn't seem to have a strong start. I can't figure out what it exactly is, and I don't want to start changing random parts. I was debating on perhaps getting a new fuel pump, coilpacks...
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My car was having starting issues recently so I took the starter to Autozone and the guy said that it wasn't performing as well as it should. I just went ahead and bought a new starter hoping that would fix it. I took the starter home installed it and the car started! Yay!(I thought) The next day I drove it around a couple of times, that night I went to go to work and it wouldn't start. All I get is one click when I try and start it. The alternator is fine and it is a brand new battery.
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