Just recently replaced timing chains and clutch on a 2000 VR6, now I have a bit of drive-case whine but in 3rd & 4th gear only? Replaced throw out bearing with new and sachs clutch, Are my transmission bolts too tight or something?
View 2 RepliesSo I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
View 10 RepliesI've been having 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. It has an automatic transmission and lately I've noticed that when I put it into Drive, it starts out in 3rd gear. In other words I've lost 1st and 2nd gear when put in Drive. When I manually put it in 1st gear with the shifter, I have 1st gear and all the way up to Drive. The issue just seems to be while in Drive (D)
I've tried the Automatic Transmission Reset :
[URL]...................
Perhaps I'm not doing it right as I can't seem to see any switch under the Gas pedal, just a round piece of plastic that protrudes an inch. I've even removed that and still see no switch.
I've put exactly 10,075 miles on my GTI as of this writing. The DSG tranny performs very well, and shifts as smoothly as ever.
However - I have recently started noticing gear whine from the DSG. Now, this isn't a subject I'm unfamiliar with, since I had the DSG in my MK6 replaced at about 15k miles after it developed an eerily similar whine, especially in 1st gear. The MK7 whines in almost every gear from about 1500 - 4000 RPM, during both acceleration and deceleration at light to moderate throttle. Granted, it's not all that noticeable with the radio on/if you're not listening for it. What concerns me, however, is that although I'm fairly sure the whine existed in 1st gear since the car was new, I don't remember it happening in all other gears.
Additionally, there is a fair bit of what sounds like flywheel chatter in Park/Neutral. This noise has also gotten progressively worse since I took delivery.
Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesI notice whenever I'm on the highway traveling between 60-70mph and at part throttle, I hear a hum that I would best describe as a gear whine which sounds to be coming from the rear. I'm taking it to the dealer next week to be checked.
View 13 RepliesSo today i got my first check engine in the .:R. I was merging onto the freeway and i shifted into third rather enthusiastically (didn't redline in 2nd but i was probably at 6k rpm) and put it into 3rd gave it the gas and the tires squealed and I got the traction control light. Has me a little worried since the traction control light didn't go off afterwards. Got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot and turned it off for a minute and when i started back up I got the check engine light also. Went to schmucks and pulled the codes and the only code I was able to pull up was P0102 MAF circuit low. I highly doubt my traction control light has anything to do with the MAF circuit. I notice when in 1st and 2nd gear (can't really tell about beyond 2nd because there is too much road noise) there is a slight whine. I cleared the codes and the check engine came back but the traction control light never went off.
View 9 RepliesWhen I push down the clutch there is an annoying whining noise. I can be at a stop or driving and either way it does it. It goes away when I let the clutch up. 04 GLi 1.8T 6 Speed. Has the Valeo Single Mass clutch conversion.
View 4 RepliesI've had a weird problem pop up within the past few weeks. My engine seems to have a noticeable whine above 4000 RPMs. It sounds almost like a supercharger whine, but my engine is completely stock. Possible problems I found online include exhaust leak, vacuum leak or tensioner issue for the belts.
Another issue I have had is that whenever shifting into second gear, I have some difficulty getting it into second gear. It makes a scraping sound as though the clutch is not disengaged all the way. On occasion, I have also had the shifter kind of pop second gear out when continuing onto third or even feel like it is rejecting second gear sometimes. A friend of mine told me that the scraping sound is normal and, "that's just how manuals are." Doesn't seem normal to me especially since it is every time I shift to second gear.
So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 jetta 2.0 and I had a loud whine on passenger side of engine. I removed serpentine belt and ran engine briefly and noise was still there. Figured it was water pump or tensioner. and when I was changing timing belt, tension, and water pump I found it was the timing belt itself that was whining. It was OEM original belt with 140,000 miles on it. The belt was in very good shape no tears just used looking. Now engine is very quiet.
View 1 RepliesI had a rebuilt alternator installed on Thursday and for the past two days when I start up the car there is a high pitch whine coming from what I believe is the alternator. Do some rebuilt alternators make noise when charging the batter after start-up? The alternator has a 3-year warranty and I'm going back to the shop tomorrow.
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 wolfsburg and sometimes when i have the heat on ill hear this weird noise coming from the vent, i turn the heat off and wait a bit and turn it on and its gone. its very random, what might this be?
View 1 RepliesBackground facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
When I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
It has a floor shifter for the xfer case with 2wd, 4wd-H,and 4wd-L, and Neutral positions. It works fine in the 2wd and the 4wd-H positions. The problem is it sometimes slips out of 4wd-L position into 4wd-Neutral, which I have just lived with, but it is annoying. I think I heard this is a known problem with these 1970's Ford xfer cases, and the fix involves removing the xfer case and replacing a part.
View 10 RepliesSo I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
View 10 RepliesI bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
P1128. Have had the code over and over!! No vacuum leaks and I've been through 2 MAFs. I've cleaned the throttle body, changed intake manifold gasket, changed plugs and wires, and put a new air filter in.
The code comes back every few months or so and the car becomes undriveable. Last changed my MAF back in December and the code is back already. What am I missing?
So my 2002 Jetta 1.8t is overheating. The water pump was bad. Replaced. The thermostat. Replaced. Radiator. Replaced. Radiator cap. Replaced. We're running out of things to replace! I'm ready to go to a junk yard and get a new block! We've tried about 100 magical "ways to burp it" with no luck. We even tried running it without a thermostat. Without the heater core. EVERYTHING.
The car runs at operating temperature at 4 RPM. But when we take it for a drive, it overheats. There's no heat with the thermostat in unless you rev it at the high RPMs. As for the hoses, top is hot, bottom gets hot. As for the car, it runs beautifully. It gives no codes. No smoke either. Nothing in the oil, nothing in the coolant so I don't think it's the head. It just overheats. This has been FAR too long.
Is it normal for my 2003 Jetta 1.8T to have trouble reaching operating temps from a cold start when letting it idle in the driveway with outside temps of 30F?
I recently had my thermostat replaced because my coolant temps never reached operating temps even when driving on the freeway.
Now with the replaced thermostat it reaches close to 190 after around 10 minutes of driving but if I am starting a cold engine and stay idle in the drive way it will not heat up to 190 even after 10 minutes.
When I tried a cold start with just letting it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes my check engine light came on giving me the P0118 code which I had before I changed my thermostat and a P0411 code.
After getting the thermostat changed I drove 100 miles to a destination and 100 miles back home the next day. A few days later I drove 22 miles to pick up a friend then 22 miles back without the check engine light coming on.
It was only when I let the car stay in idle from a cold start for 10 minutes that the check engine light came on and gave me the two error codes of P0118 and P0411.
Now I suspect the P0411 is from a leaking secondary air injection hose but the P0118 code confuses me as I switched out the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor.