Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VR6 Constant Click After Few Minutes Of Driving
Mar 26, 2015
Lately I've been hearing a constant click from what seems to be my chains side of the motor. Tensioners and chains were said to be done around 123k. After I've been driving it for a few minutes I hear the click. I thought it was the trans/ throw out berrying but when i push the clutch in and have it in gear i can still hear the click. It is not rapid like a tensioner like a tick tick tick, its like tick......tick......tick, could this be my top end of my block not receiving enough oil? I have a cracked oil pan, doesn't leak that often but i feel as if that is the source of the problem. Also I feel as if i lose power once i hit about 4300-4400 RPMs could that be because of low oil pressure?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
So I have a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition, love the car. So here's my problem, whenever I am driving for more then 20-30 minutes my shifting between gears begins to become more and more rough, like whenever I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it directs me to first gear instead of 3rd and I have to kinda force it into 3rd. This only happens when I am driving for a long period of time, why this is happening? and sometimes when I put it in reverse I get a loud crunch noise but I get it into gear...
View 1 Replies
i have a 05 GTI 1.8T and recently started overheating while driving. for a few months it would overheat if i idled too long but now after driving for 5 minutes it overheats and also wont build any boost. i could hear a hissing sound after i shut the car and thats coming from the flange where the coolant temp sensor is, but is hissing where is mounts to the engine.
update- i replaced the o-ring on the flange, that got rid of the hissing. the no boost must have been due to the engine overheating, but it is still overheating i guess im gonna check the thermostat next.
update 2 - checked thermostat and it is good so I'm at a loss here.
View 2 Replies
I have a mk4 Jetta 1.8t. Problem started last night. After I drive for about 15-20 minutes the oil pressure warning light comes on. It doesn't feel any different and my oil is full. Could my pump be going bad? I hear a slight tick near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. But the car idles fine and drives fine too.
View 17 Replies
This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
View 2 Replies
I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
View 6 Replies
So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
View 7 Replies
So I recently lower my car and my 3" exhaust started a constant rattle when I'm in the car. When I get out it stops. Been lowered for a week or so now and today was the first time that happened. I've read up and seen its pretty common when we go lower. Also some ways to possibly fix it.
View 16 Replies
1997 vw jetta is bucking after driving 20-30 min. keeps going, just keeps bucking . Also, the speedometer doesn't always work.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
View 1 Replies
Temp is at 190, runs great, coolant levels are fine, everything seems fine but there's a constant stream of smoke coming from my dipstick tube. Oil isn't milky. 2.0 AZG. Tried searching but only found threads for 1.8t's. Headgasket was done recently.
View 2 Replies
I have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
View 10 Replies
Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
View 15 Replies
I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
View 5 Replies
Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
View 3 Replies
Just installed raxle on my driver side. All clicking sounds are fixed but I noticed if I take right turns sometimes you can hear a constant clunking sound coming from the driver side wheel. It doesn't happen all the time, you kinda have to turn and hit a certain angle of the steering wheel. Also, only happens when driving low, if I raise the car just a little bit its gone. Never had issues with my oem axle binding so Im not sure how exactly does the binding sound?
View 24 Replies
The other night I was coming home from work in my 1999.5 MKIV 2.0 Golf (Only about a 2 mile drive), once I got to a stop light my car just turned off. No loud bang, no sputter then die, just off (Like I turned the key). After trying to start the car with just a click, pushed it into a nearby parking lot with a friend steering. Once in the park lot we tried bump starting the car (it's a manual) with nothing the car sounding like it wanted to go but never did. The next night I pushed it back to my house, pulled the starter and the battery, and had both of them tested. The starter extended and spun up fine and the battery was in excellent shape.
View 2 Replies
About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
View 1 Replies
So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
View 4 Replies
After running at normal temperature for about 10 minutes, my car starts to overheat. I noticed my radiator fan wasn't running at any speed, but my auxiliary fan was running fine. I checked the thermal switch and that was okay, because the auxiliary A/C fan still worked after jumping, and the big fan didn't. I replaced the fan assembly and now both fans work fine, so I assume that my thermostat is okay (maybe not and I'm missing something?). Even though both fans are running, my car still overheats, but maybe after 15 minutes now as opposed to 10. Water pump seems to be fine because I can see it pumping back into the coolant reservoir, and it doesn't seem to be sputtering or anything. Just replaced coolant recently after flushing with water, so I assume that the radiator isn't clogged. I also recently replaced the oil because it needed it anyway. It is still overheating so now I'm stuck. I can get to work and back because it's only a 5 minute trip and it doesn't have time to overheat, but I don't want to keep driving it obviously.
View 9 Replies
A week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.
View 16 Replies
