Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VR6 - Backfiring / Bucking Occur From 2300 - 5500 RPMs
Dec 20, 2014
I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
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I bought my MKIV R 2 months ago. Car has 114k, mostly stock besides UM Tune and flapper. First things I did was new oem plugs, coils, crankshaft sensor and drop in k&n filter. PO did fuel filter at 100k. Few weeks ago I noticed when stepping on it in 2nd and 3rd gear car will hesitate for a split second at like 5500 rpms and than keep on pulling. I dont really beat on the car at all so I didnt pay attention to that. Today I tried to see if it still does it and it did, 3rd gear, 2 tries, both at 5500 rpms. I scanned the car and no fault codes. Is it normal for the car to have this sort of "hiccup"? Not sure where to start looking to be honest.
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Manual... I hear this buzzing sound, mostly during deceleration, on 2nd, 3rd or 4th gears between 2300-3000rpms, very annoying on 2nd and 3rd gears, but can still somewhat noticeable on 4th gear. Can also hear it on acceleration, sometimes on 2nd and 3rd gear, silent on 4th gear.
I've turned off soundaktor thru VCDS, but still hearing this sound so I was thinking that the hockey puck is still spinning, albeit not as annoying as when it's 100%. So I tried to disconnect it, still hearing that buzzing sound. I even removed all stuff from my car and it's still buzzing. Really annoying, specially if you just want to hear the sound of the engine braking on deceleration.
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So last night i was having some fun doing a wot pull from 2-5th and bam misfire p0301 code for cylinder 1. During the pulls i felt and noticed slight hesitation/stuttering around 5500-6100 rpms. When i let off it felt like cylinder1 was totally dead. Had a flashing cel + epc light come on, so i pull over turn the car off and now it won start. When you go to start it, it just continues to turn over, doesn't even sound like it's attempting to fire up. Feels like it doesn't have compression. There wasn't any loud out of the ordinary noise when this happened, other than the obvious misfire.
I had changed the coilpacks to the r8 red tops, and swapped out my plugs about 8k miles ago, so i doubt it's them. Did the HPFP around 15k miles ago, so i doubt it's that, plus i smell fuel while turning it over. If i had to guess i screwed up a valve. Maybe an injector best case scenario, but i dont think so. At the dealer now waiting to hear back from them sometime next week.
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1987 BMW 535is ... I first noticed the issue after getting gas with the tank nearly empty. Car lost power under acceleration, bucked, stalled, etc. After it idled a while, I was able to get it home. Fiddled with it off and on for months to no avail. Because it sat for periods of time, I would need to jump it. On those occasions, it idled perfectly and ran like a champ. Upon restart, the poor running conditions returned.
I finally gave up and took it to a BMW shop, which replaced the mass air flow meter, plugs and rotor. It ran like new for a few months, but the bogging problem returned.
Essentially, it acts as if the engine is starved of gas, bucking and surging, backfiring sometimes. It does seem to run better on a full tank, but that isn't always consistent. It also seems sometimes to improve once the engine is warm - on occasion you can feel the transmission grab hold upon letting up on the gas and the problem totally disappears. But not even that is consistent, and lately it starts and idles ok but then starts coughing and shuddering unless you hit the throttle.
I have suspected a weird electrical glitch, but grounds are fine and everything else checks out. Usual switches and sensors appear fine. While it had been running very rich before the MAF replacement, computer now shows 21 MPG, which is very high for this car and certainly doesn't suggest rich running. Have not had the fuel pump/filter checked, but it seems to be getting gas, compression is good and the BMW shop did not suspect a fuel delivery issue.
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So about a week ago i got on the onramp to get on the freeway and stepped on the throttle as usual to get up to speed, but now for some odd reason the rpm's dont go past 5,500. Not sure whats wrong. I stay on the throttle but it pretty much stops and levels out at right around 5,500.. i must say i am pretty clueless. i just past 80k not long ago, and everything seemed to be going fine.
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2.0 Jetta with AEG engine.
I've been plagued by a belt squeak for several months now that only seems to occur when I'm in motion and let off the accelerator. I'm thinking it's the timing belt so I took the top cover off to have a look. What I found is the belt is a bit off center on the top sprocket, although it doesn't look frayed and isn't hanging off the edge.
I found that the tensioner seems to wiggle slightly when I try moving it by hand. It doesn't look like it wobbles when the car is running, but I've never been able to see in the engine compartment when the squeak occurs. The belt also appears to have some shine on a line down the center. Pictures attached.
FWIW, I checked for play in pulleys on the aux belt and found none. What's everyone's opinion on the tensioner and the condition of the belt? The belt has 52,000 miles on it.
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
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Started my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.
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I have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
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I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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I have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
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