Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Trunk Neither Opens Nor Shows Signal On Connector
May 8, 2010
I found trunk in 2003 GTi won't lock, and new actuator(motor) didn't, either. No signal on the connector when I press key fob switch, through rear light blink. I guess there would be another connector to this wire(green and blue) somewhere inside the passenger side C pillar.
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So my 04 GLS Jetta has had this issue for a while and I would like to find out why. If I pull the button for the trunk in the drivers door or press the button my key to open the trunk, nothing happens. The lights will flash when I press the button on the key but no sound comes from the trunk. Same goes for the trunk release button in the door. No sound. The only way I can open the trunk is to use the actual key and while I turn the key, I have to press down on the trunk. Turning the key alone will not open the trunk. It only opens when I press down on the trunk and turn the key.
Is this normal if the trunk release motor on the trunk goes out? I also have had the trunk open and did the button in the door and the key with nothing happening. How to troubleshoot this?
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So, I'm pulling my hair out now. I loaned my car to a friend for a few months while I was out of the country and now that I've gotten it back, the rear hatch will only open with the key. I've searched online for days and tried several things but, nothing is working. Here's what's going on and what I've tried.
The back opens perfectly with the key (i.e. there's nothing stuck in the latch)
When I use the fob, the lights flash but the actuator doesn't move (there's no noise other than the lights flashing)
When I pull the switch in the drivers door nothing happens (can't remember if the lights are supposed to flash or not but they DON'T now)
When I lift on the handle in the trunk nothing happens
I've pulled the interior back hatch cover off and tried to activate the actuator using a 9V battery and it did nothing so, I thought it was a dead actuator. I just dropped $60 on a new one, plugged it in, shut the hatch and nothing happened....
I don't have access to VAGCOM or anything like that so, hopefully there are things that I can test w/o that?
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I have a vibration that shows up when I am going 70 to 75 mph. I don't really feel it much at all in the steering wheel (not shaking side to side at all). It's more the whole car like I feel it in the seat more than anything. It's definitely a fast vibration so I'm sure it has something to do with wheel speed (wheels, bearings or axles?) I thought it was a bad wheel as my rear passenger wheel was bent and out of round making that tire become cupped real bad.
So time came for new tires and I decided to get a new set of wheels to put the new tires on. Got my wheels and tires from tire rack already mounted and balanced. Put the new wheels and tires on and the vibration is still there just the same. Wheel bearings all seem good. The front wheel bearings were replaced about 4 or 5 months ago (vibration was there before wheel bearings were replaced) along with a front suspension refresh kit from ECS with new lower control arms.
I'm curious if the CV axles could cause this type of vibration even though they are not making any noise. My car is not lowered at all and I am running stock wheel and tire sizes. I'm not above trying new axles as ECS has them for a good price. Checked with Raxles first but for the 24v VR6 they only have the performance ones.
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2001 golf interior lights don't come on if any door opens, car doesn't recognize any of the doors to be open on the dash. I read it could be bad door lock modules, but does that happen to all 4 or could it be an electrical issue?
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My trunk opens by itself. Sometimes when I hit the door open key on the remote (I've tried the spare and it's the same). Sometimes seconds after opening doors. I've gone out to find my trunk wide open in the morning...twice in the past week! The latch works just fine. Seems to be a problem with electronics.
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I've got a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg Edition.
Recently the temp gauge sits at 260* as soon as the car starts, but it's not actually overheating. Car runs/drives fine and will do so for many, many miles. Even in stop and go traffic. Was told the thermostat was replaced, but that didn't fix the issue although it doesn't sound like a thermostat issue since the car isn't actually overheating. Coolant is topped off as well.
I am thinking it's a bad sensor. Where is it located on this car?
Car is a friends and she said she took it to a shop to have the coolant checked and they were also the ones who did the thermostat.
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I recently installed a k04 turbo, when I try and accelerate hard my wastegate just seems to open up very quickly without building much boost. I don't have a boost gauge or anything like that installed. Do I start by adjusting the wastegate actuator, or install MBC. Pretty new to this still.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elenatra 7 months old. the trunk opens by itself very often. I asked at the service department at the dealership and they say never heard of this problem. Also I came out yesterday the battery was dead even thought nothing was left on. I fell there must be some electrical or switching problem with this car.
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I had a rather unfortunate incident this morning. I woke to find my trunk wide open and several items valued at over $700 missing!!! As you can imagine, this really ticks me off! What good is all this technology if it doesn't work?! And I know for a fact I locked the car too!
The worst thing is, there's absolutely nothing you can do about it, no way of knowing until after the fact. This was not a one time occurrence either; it happened once before a couple weeks ago. My neighbor woke me up first thing in the morning to inform me my trunk was wide open. Fortunately nothing had been touched the first time.
I'm worried the dealer will tell me there's nothing they can do about it because they cant duplicate the problem. So what? Does this now mean that the trunk has rendered it useless to leave *anything* of value in the car? Come to think of it, this also makes it easy to break in to the car as well; since all they would have to do is drop the rear seats and climb on through. The more I think about it, the worse it truly is and the more this ticks me off!
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I've had the car since the end of April. About 8 or 9 times I've had people come into my office and tell me that my truck is open.
If you own one of these you know that the word "hair trigger" does not come to mind with opening the truck remotely. You have to purposely work the trunk button. I really don't thinks it's because I sat on the key fob or bumped it so it accidentally opened the trunk.
As you can imagine I keep valuable things in my trunk so this is not good.
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I have a 2004 545i and while the car is parked and not running the Trunk will open by itself. Its happened about 4-5 times in the past 6 months. I took it back to the dealer, they replaced some parts and said they have never heard of the problem. Since then it has happened two more times.
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I loved my Honda Accord, leased for 3 years......we decided to downsize, reduce the payment, so this 3 years we got a Honda Civic. I've had some problems, but one that the dealership said was not a problem, as such, but more a feature of the Civic, is the remote opening of the trunk. When you hit the remote, the trunk opens, but it doesn't rise at all, the Accord surely did. When it opens that way, you have packages in your arms, and you can fit your elbow into the space and of course have the trunk go fully open.....the way I have it now, is that it's virtually closed, but it is unlocked. But we still have to put our packages down to get the trunk open, truly open. Cause then it's not standard.....if you're trunk unlocks and goes up 1/2 way, that is what I'm used to......so I think I'm being given the 'they're all that way' when in fact they may not...
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If I use the button on the door the trunk opens fine if I use the remote the trunk opens sometimes and sometimes it makes the noise but just opens a crack making noise then I have to pull open the trunk manually.
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The trunk of my 2013 Elantra GLS pops open randomly when the car is parked, unoccupied, and I am well away from it. This happens about once every week or ten days. Last night it popped open during a heavy rain and the trunk was soaked. I can not trust the trunk as a safe place for anything of value. I suspected at first that the remote was doing this by somehow getting squeezed in my pants pocket, but I can not cause it to replicate this by pressing on the pants pocket or squeezing the remote against the key or a pocket comb or such. I have considered abandoning the remote but with no trunk key that is very inconvenient.
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It happened twice today. Didn't hit the trunk button on the key fab either. In fact I have a remote starter with a different fab.
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I'm having a problem with my trunk not opening with my remote it opens with the latch inside the car and with the key , is their any thing I can do to get the remote to open the trunk? The remote works fine because I can hear the noise of when it's suppose to open and it locks the doors fine but it just doesn't open the trunk.
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I can open all the doors if I press the unlock button on the driver's side. However, suddenly, the remote (both remotes) will unlock only the driver's door & the trunk, but not the passenger & rear doors.
Locking the door manually with the key did nothing. We just replaced the car's battery (it's been 5 years), but that didn't solve the problem with the keyless entry remote. One of the remotes is rarely used (1x/week), so I'd be astonished if both keyless entry remotes needed batteries at the same second.
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Experience issues with their XM radio signal? It seems I have "no signal" more often than not.
I also have XM on my 05 Suburban and never experience a loss of signal other than going under over passes or through tunnels.
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Getting a squeak when they open the trunk of their camry? it is really annoying. I have sprayed on a lot of armor all and the dealer said they could not replicate, which I find difficult to believe. When you release the trunk from the inside, you walk back and you hear the squeaking on the driver side as you walk back.
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My key FOB only electronically unlocks/locks the doors it wont unlock the trunk and i can't actually use the key part to unlock the car or start the car. Is there a way to fix this besides getting a new key from a dealer since that is very expensive.
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