Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Trunk Made A Slight Buzz While Opening
May 7, 2015
2004 Mk IV Jetta 2.0
I thought it was the trunk actuator, so I ordered a new one. I thought this because when I hit the button to open the trunk, I heard a slight buzz (not the sound of the actuator extending) but the arm didn't push out.
When I hooked up the new one to the wire to test it out the same thing happened. I also tested both actuators with a 9V battery and they worked correctly. So, it's not a problem with the actuator itself, and I don't think it's a problem with the wiring since there is at least enough power coming through to cause a buzzing noise...so I don't know what else it could be.
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Can I use my key to open my trunk in the case of a dead battery? I disconnected my battery last night to try it out, but it wouldn't open. Some people say turn the key 50 degrees, but I don't think my key will turn that far. I was also scared of snapping the key off in the lock.
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I was having battery issues and had a friend hook up a battery charger to my car today. They pulled some relays to see if they could figure out why it was starting right. When I left for work the car started fine but I notice my windows would not roll down at all. I figured no biggie I would deal with it tomorrow.
When I got to work I realized my key fob had stopped working too. Again, I have a key will unlock it after work and deal with it later. After work tonight, I go to the car, I tried the key fob and nothing. No surprise. But I unlocked the driver door and it won't open, try to unlock the trunk it won't open.
I was told they pulled the relays and reseated them when messing with the battery. I can see a red light flashing below the radio. To top it off the keys to my other car are locked in the trunk along with my purse!
2002 Jetta Turbo 1.8....
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2006 GX 470, purchased CPO with 26K miles in March 2008.....my sunroof just made a horrific clicking noise upon opening last night, and the one-touch opening isn't working, I have to physically hold the button down in order for it to open all the way.
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I went to go get gas today and tried to open my fuel door with he button on my door and it wouldn't open. The trunk opened fine but when I pressed the gas button it made no noise and didn't move at all. I've never had a problem with my fuel cap and all of my locks besides this one work fine. I also can't manually open my fuel cap from the back, because in my GLI, you can't bet much further back behind the tail lights.
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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I have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
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I have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
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When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
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As the title states, my alarm horn chirps when opening the unlocked passenger door in my '03 Golf. Asked the master tech about it and we sat there scratching our heads for a while. Nothing he's ever seen or heard before. What set of conditions would create this?
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Today I tried opening my roof... The trunk lid opened but the top didn't fold.. I closed it... After restarting my car I realized the front switch for the top doesn't even light anymore...
I unplugged the battery... replugged.. the switch opened the trunk lid again but top didn't move and switch was a solid red light... once I pressed closed, trunk lid closed and switch stopped lighting after (not responsive). What it could be?
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When I open my trunk it just doesn't swing open, it feels like it opens up half way bounces back a little and then opens up fully.
I chalked it up to it being a single shock on one side and it can't open that fast but I want to make sure I don't have something defective "Already got hit twice in the head by the trunk lock after leaning into fast "...
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If the battery in my B6 Passat is dead, how do I open the trunk?
Other than the sort-of obvious method of crawling through the cabin and pulling the glow-in-the-dark "oh no some gangster has locked me in the trunk" tab. I ask because I recently purchased a portable jump starter and question if the trunk is the best place for it to live.
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Happened with both my 2012 and 2014 Elantras. Tried to solve it by removing one remote fob (I carry two complete sets of keys at all times), with only partial success.
Tried another suggested solution: wrapping the remaining fob in a silicone slip-over wrapping to mitigate accidental contact with the release.
Finally resolved it by removing the fuse that allows remote release of the trunk.
The accidental releases were becoming very inconvenient and problematic and I'm willing to manually pop it with the lever near the driver seat.
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Have a 99, ext cab, 3.0 , 5 spd man. 125,000 on it. I know the clutch will need replaced shortly but so far it is still functioning with out the slipping. Although I can feel a slight vibration, or buzz when I up shift. My immediate concern is the clattering/rattling. say at idle, not moving with the clutch pushed in when I shift into 2nd and 4th gear it really rattles loud. I can only assume it is some bearing inside the transmission, but need to have a bit more surety as to the problem. I know, I need to do the clutch however i don't know if the transmission is going bad or is that noise in the clutch area.
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I am able to open the trunk with remote but not from latch inside or key! Whats the diagnosis and fix?
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Do the 2014-15 Avalons have a power opening trunk lid? My wife and I both have back and neck pain. Neither one of us can lift very much weight without causing pain flare up.In a youtube video of a 2014 Avalon, it looks like the trunk lid opens about 3 quarters of the way when the man showing the Avalon features pressed the key fob.
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When I first got my 2006 Lexus RX400h (LOVE the car, btw), I would unlock all the doors by clicking twice on the unlock button on the key fob, then hold it down to open the trunk.
My dad went to get something from the trunk and I gave him the same instructions. Well when he did it (we were in the middle of a rain storm) all of the windows opened and not the trunk. Now this is what happens every time.
I'm not sure what happened, but I'm really missing opening my trunk through my key fob especially when my hands are full. Why this is happening and how I can open my trunk using the key fob again?
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Having problem with trunk lid ....... it is occasionally opening without activation ....... sometimes I'm less than a 1/2 mi from home, sometimes one to two miles from home ...... trunk just opens and button (trunk release) on key fob has not been pushed ???
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2014 Elantra SE with premium package, I've had it a little over a month. Last week the ac plug stopped working in the passenger seat area. BF said have them check at first service.
Now the trunk wouldn't open with my key fob, or the spare. So I thought maybe a shopping bag handle got in the way. On the way home from the store, the trunk open light popped on randomly. Trunk wasn't open. Okay, that's odd...
Now the alarm has been going off randomly. 3 times in the past 2 hours, I'm wondering if it's a massive electrical problem waiting to happen.
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I checked the archives and found nothing of value for my particular problem. My wife has a 2008 Yaris, and we can't get the trunk to open with the key. The only way to get in is with the trunk release lever just inside the drivers door.
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