Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Transmission Didn't Feel Smooth Whenever Shifted
May 21, 2015
I noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
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The last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
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VW GTI 1.8T 5 speed.
So I've blown the differential on my transmission, it's been blown for a little while. I have basically no transmission fluid at all.
Question: Why is the car still driving normally?
Some time ago I was getting a transmission fluid flush and change, my gear shifter was a bit stiff before the change and after changing the fluid it became smoother.
According to my mechanic that would be the result of changing the fluid.
Question: So then why is my gear shifter completely smooth without any transmission fluid at all and a blown differential?
Question: what will happen if I leave it like this? I'm assuming it will eventually seize up?
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I had my shift fork and 1 and 2 gear synchros replaced. Whenever i shift into second it doesnt feel as smooth as first. when i hold the clutch longer and put it into second it feels smoother.
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Feel this is a bit stupid, but whatever. I was jacking up the front wheel of the car today on the pinch welds (one part of it got super bent) and while the jack was almost maxed out, my front wheel didn't go anywhere. I must've had almost a foot gap between the wheel and the fender..
Took some pictures of where I jacked, and the suspension/wheel of the car. What it could've been or how I'm supposed to properly lift it so the wheel comes up?
can see the pics here: [URL].....
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Today I was driving on the freeway and a noticed my cars exhaust burbles way more than it used to, like it used to do it at around 1500 rpm when I am decelerating or between shifts, now it always does it when I decelerate like there is no smooth decelerating sound I used to have its just all crackle and burble, I do have an exhaust leak but I've had it since I did my down pipe and it was fine before, I've ordered an oem one and ill slap it on when im doing my fmic install, i did replace all coilpacks yesterday so maybe I did it wrong if its even possible to do that wrong. And also my windshield has so many nicks in it like it looks like a lot of dirt on the windshield, it looks like it'll wipe off but it doesn't there's no cracks just tiny dings all over the windshield.
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I am going to be looking into this a little bit tomorrow with an oil change and noisy hub bearing.
Car : 2002 Jetta GLS 1.8t stock 5spd ~165k miles
Symptoms : Light acceleration (day to day), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to 2-2500 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Moderate acceleration (casual hwy on ramp, stoplight fun), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 25-2800 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Hard acceleration (short hwy on ramp), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 28-3100 range. I do not feel any symptoms noted above.
The hesitation felt is enough to cause the car to feel like it had a short loss of power. This does give a jerky feel.
My thoughts : I know there were issues with the coils in this model/year. I have verified through the deal that the vin had received the replacements but unsure if they are the actual replacements. My dad thinks it may be turbo related (which is also stock and never pulled apart to my knowledge).
I found that this KO3s turbo should be fully spooled about 2200rpms. It seems to coincide with my lower rpm accel that maybe I am loosing some of the spool and feeling that?
Other Info : Am I way off or is there anything I can check for easily? I am not very knowledgeable in turbos beyond their basic functions. This is also my first turbo car. I have owned the car 2yrs now. It seemed to have always been there but I don't recall noticing it on the initial test drive. The trans has been replaced since noticing this for other reasons but did not correct this.
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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2002 LS V8 162K Miles. Its been sitting in the garage for 10 days. ...went on vacation. Started her up and let it idle down. Shifted to reverse and transmission shift error displayed. Went back to P. Waited a minute. Shifted again and she was hard jumping into the gears. The error went away. Drove it around and it seems to shift fine. Opinions?
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I have a 2000 passat v6 with a automatic transmission, I was on the highway yesterday and 2x the car shifted down by itself from 5th to 4th gear. I noticed when I bought the car it had a slight tranny leak which I assumed was from the seal drying up because the previous owner let the car sit for a little bit. The first day I bought the car she hesitated going from 4th to 5th for like 3 seconds but every day after that it has been fine. I have been told by some people to flush it and get new fluid and a filter, and then other people telling me that the tranny fluid is lifetime and if you flush it your going to blow the tranny up.... What should I do, the day it acted up I got to where I was going then the car sat for about 2 hours and on the way home on the interstate it was fine like nothing ever happened. I drove it to work today there and back and again no problem.
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About 9 months ago heard a strange noise when shifted into 4 wd , sounded like driving over those grooves on the side of the highway to keep people awake.
Had to pull over to stop , as it would not go back into 2wd with the noise still going.
Then it stopped , after shutting truck off and restarting.
Then earlier this year after trying to do it again in 4wd had bad clunking noise and was hard to get back in 2wd , I can here the shift motor engaging and the dash reads in 4wd, seems its not engaging fully in 4wd and not going back to 2wd, its a very bad clunking noise, shakes the whole truck.
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Recent purchase of new 2014 Prius v model 3. Less than 5,000 miles on odo. Transmission shifted into neutral on two occasions when making a right hand turn while going over a small depression (drainage swail). Of course Toyota recommends that I take it to their dealer for diagnosis but if they can't pull the code they will send me on my way. Going to go anyway but feel it is pointless.
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I have a 99 Merc Sable, only 75,000 miles. Car has ran smooth, no issues. Until, I had ran over a blown tire. Pulled gas line off filter. Replaced it. Everything seemed fine. But turns out, I think anyhow this is when this happened. My car started having shifting problem, found problem within a few days. Transmission bottom cooler line came off. I fixed it but sadly was a little too late a week later tranny died. Just had it replaced. Here's where I need experienced minds. After getting my car back 5Miles down as car shifted there was a pull back and engine light came on. I toom back to mechanic owner said my front engine mounts were bad. One of his mechanics told me secretly they are not bad. He ran diagnostic test nothing came back, they test drove it but of course it didnt do anything. As soon as I left work it pulled light came back on. I pulled over looked at engine as it was running. The engine moves as if its rearing up. Best way I can explain it. Is there something they could of broke or didn't put together right to cause this?
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My car is 7k short of its drive train warranty expiring. I noticed a rumbling vibration when the transmission shifted between 3-4 gear at approximately 20-25 mph. Took it into the dealer, and their expert rode with me and verified that it indeed was vibrating, but that he had never seen this issue on the 2007 GS350 AWD. He said he would have to check around the country to see if others had this problem. Four days later, he advised me that he was told to flush the transmission 2-3 times and for me to drive it about 1k miles to see if that fixed it. Well, it doesn't do it anymore, but I'm not sure why, or that it won't do it again just after the warranty expires at 70k miles. I certainly don't want to look at a 4-6,000.00 transmission replacement after the warranty expires. The dealer obviously doesn't want to incur the expense either, under warranty. Even though the transmission does not rumble or vibrate anymore, should I ask for the replacement anyway?
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Need to identify this noise? After starting the car after sitting overnight or anytime the engine is cold it makes this sound when shifted into gear. You can hear the sound dissipate and eventually go away but it has me worried.
2002 I4 Camry LE 150K
Video : [URL] ....
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I have a 78 f100 2wd, 300 inline 6 and I've put 2 c6 transmissions in it. The transmission shakes real bad in reverse. When you put it in drive and try to take off it wants to quit pulling but when you put it in first gear and shift up to 2nd it works perfect. My plan was to just junk the C6 and switch to a manual trans but I don't know what trans I would swap it with.
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2006 Chevy Silverado 3500 (crew cab dually) with Duramax diesel and Allison transmission. Every time transmission is shifted into Park while the engine is running, the engine will shut off. The engine is able to restart, but this has never happened before.
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
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Just did my clutch yesterday and now I'm having some linkage issues. 1-4 shifts smooth, but 5th is a little tight and I can't get into 6th. I feel like the shift linkages may be a little messed up.
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