Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Transmission And Clutch Replacement
May 13, 2014
I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
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I changed my oem clutch in my mk4 golf 2.0l with a stage 1 ecs tuning clutch kit. Lightweight flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. But since I have my clutch pedal has been less stiff then usual. I like my clutch pedal as stiff as possible but it just isn't I bled off the slave cylinder. When I was done no air was coming out but it is still way to soft for me. What should I do next??
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I've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
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2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
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I've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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I own a 2010 GTI stage 2+ with 430hp, I just had a clutch replacement from
dodson motorsport that can handle more power up to 700hp, before the replacement I had serious slipping, when I was pushing the car from 4k rpm, the "DSG OVERHEATING" blink on the dashboard, now after the replacement and the dsg software I still have slippage, do you think it comes from mechatronic? The tuners said that might be the mechatronic due to the fact that the two valves of pressure does not send too much oil to the clutches and creates slippage. Should I change only the two valves or the mechatronic complete.
This was the stock "burned" clutch
And this is the new DODSON MOTORSPORT CLUTCH PACK FOR 700whp
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Got a new clutch, flywheel, and slave done about a month and a half ago at the dealer (got bent over with the price too, but that is beside the point). Ever since, the rpm's have been acting really weird. When the car is in neutral, it will rev by itself from 800-1800. The problem seems to get worse under warm conditions.
I haven't had a chance until today to take it back to the dealer, they scanned it and a couple of codes came up. I will get the exact codes on monday, but they said bring it back then so they can take a closer look at it. What this could be? Throttle body position sensor? Its really pissing me off, and they better fix it. Just want to be well prepared for a fight come monday...
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
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Driving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
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I'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
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Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
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I drive a 24v vr6 GTI in 6-speed I was coming home and as I turned and got on the gas a little and all of a sudden there was a pop and my car couldn't go in gear when I release the clutch. Luckily I was close to home and basically cruised in neutral. I jacked it up and found that my axle is twisted. Now I was aware the boots were torn before so I'm assuming the axle got screwed up but my other concern is, why won't my car go in gear? Here's the photo of inner CV. I'm hoping it's just an axle and not the clutch.
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So i was driving and I went to shift and my clutch never came back up. Long story short after searching the forums i think it might be my slave cylinder and throwout bearing. There was a puddle of fluid under the car.
I was planning on using this DIY : [URL] ....
Just wondering if all i have to do is follow this up to step 48 and replace the throwout bearing and slave cylinder.
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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My 2001 Golf seems like the clutch is slipping. It bangs into gear at low revs so bad you think you've hit a large pothole. I'm hoping it's not the whole transmission that needs replacing, because we only have 135000 on the clock.
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Ive got a 2001 MKIV Golf GTI. Recently I've had some clutch problems, I kept returning to the car and finding the clutch on the floor. After a tow My mechanic managed to get it back after a lot of pumping and messing around, and told me It needed a Slave Cylinder. So that night after driving home (clutch wasn't feeling good) I came out and found the clutch on the floor again.
So I went out - got a new genuine slave cylinder and replaced it myself. But now I cant for the life of me bleed the clutch - I've bled brakes plenty of times but never a clutch. I am doing it manually, I've read online some guides.
1) Crack the bleeder & push pedal down... because its got that spring, it stays on the floor.
2) Close the bleeder, pull clutch up with hand...
Ive been doing this over and over and over, but nothing happens... fluid isn't even coming out of the bleeder. Im guessing this could be because the slave has no fluid in it and there is an Airlock?? I want to try to avoid getting another tow truck.
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How hard is it to replace an oil pump on a 1.8T?
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I was just curious, is running stage one clutch with f21 turbo kit. I would like to know if it will hold up as long as I don't launch...
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