I had my A/C and dryer replaced because the last one basically wore itself out after 135K miles on my '01 TDI.
After I got the car back, whenever the air condition is turned out, I sometimes get a very loud intermittent vibration.
I made a video: [URL] ....
What could be the cause of this?
So here is my situation, back in September I had to replace my passenger side cv axle on my 99' Mk IV Jetta and ever since then I have had a vibration whenever I exceed speeds over 70. This vibration is accompanied with a droning sound that gets louder the faster I go. But the weird part is all of this only happens when I am accelerating. If I push in the clutch or take my foot off of the accelerator it goes away immediately. Since all that started (for other reasons I might add) I have replaced the tires, both front ball joints, the driver side steering knuckle and both front struts.
Additionally and I'm not sure if this is related but it does seem coincidental. The muffler bumps on the body when I'm accelerating as well, but only after the exhaust has warmed up. I am at a loss. When the tires were installed they did a balance on the wheels and they didn't say anything about the wheels being bent or "out of round".
So I have a 2004 gti that makes a very loud noise when i turn the wheel even slightly to the left there is also a vibration that shakes the whole right side of the car. I assumed based on the sound and vibration that it was the wheel bearing. the bearing was shot but when i replaced it nothing changed. so it has a brand new wheel bearing and the cv joint is good ive already checked it everything seems to be as it should. i cant think of anything else it could be. What the problem could be caused by?
View 11 RepliesMy 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
So I had a strange vibration coming from the drivers side wheel intermittently. Only when the hubs were in Auto , by locking them it would not happen. With hubs in Auto when it occurs switching into 4H made it stop immediately.
It would occur after small bumps and sound like driving over a rumble strip. I figured it sounds like a needle bearing in the hub going wonky and just replaced the entire sealed unit. So that should be it right? Nope.....
The vibration has changed tone and sound but still occurred after a slight bump to the right Driver Side tower. It now is a much deeper tone then before.
I made sure everything was reassembled correctly and tight. I notice however that if I remove the ESOF lockouts to rule them out it still occurs (no lockout in at all ) .
I can move the outer DS stub shaft quite a bit with one finger when the lockouts are not installed. Which would explain that why when the lockouts are installed and I lock the hubs it doesn't occur as the end of the stub shaft rides in the lockout.
I haven't changed the outer axle seals , but they really didn't look shot. It appears as if the play in the axle is coming from the pumpkin.
Side note: I took apart everything and cleaned it , there was mud, crud, dirt and water throughout the hum to and into the lockouts. see pix below for the mess and carnage. I cleaned and lubed everything up.
So today was above freezing.. [URL] .... I open the sunroof as I'm driving around town, and I notice a rather distinct rumbling noise.. I put my hand against it and discover the roof is vibrating harmonically. Which I've discovered seems to happen any time I have the sunroof fully open, over ~30mph (50kmh). If I close it one tick, the problem disappears completely, I guess as the airflow changes. Is this badly-designed aerodynamics, or actually something misplaced or misaligned in my sunroof?
View 17 RepliesCouple days ago I took out the factory air box and cut the bottom out. I also cleaned my K&N filter at the same time. I cut the whole bottom edge to edge up to about 2" from the flapper on the motor side of the box. Re-installed and everything is tight. I drove the car and noticed a LOUD or what I consider loud noise from about 3,000rpm to redline. I am thinking it could be just the additional air being sucked from the air box. However its much louder then I would expect from a CAI. Does a CAI make a loud difference? I noticed a increase in performance so I know its working. Also, it could be described a a light, smooth sounding exhaust leak. But I am susceptible since this problem was not their prior to the intake mod.
View 6 RepliesMy oil sensor light goes off under specific conditions, and it's consistent and 100% repeatable.
It's an MK4 Golf GTI 5-sp Manual, and whenever I'm slowing down and the engine is under 2000 revs, the sensor light goes off. This includes stopping, slowing going down or up hills, and really anytime the engine is lower than 2000 revs.
I've replaced the oil sensor, no dice. I don't know what else the issue might be?
My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
last weekend I was closing my sunroof and it went all the way shut, then started going back, just like your garage door does if you leave some stuff blocking the door. I stuck my hand in there and whisked around to see if there was anything blocking it but found nothing just dust. I didn't look closer because I was going down the highway 75mph at the time. Them the issue went away by itself and I left it shut.
View 6 RepliesI keep getting the error code P0420. Cat below threshold.
I have replace both the front and rear O2 sensors and we reset the check engine light. While driving through the cycles to reset the sensors for them to be ready for DEQ, the check engine light came on again.
I am about ready to buy the Cat Converter, but it is really expensive and if there are any other things that I can try before replacing the Cat I would like to try that first. Any other issues associated with that code, or should I just replace the Cat Converter as my next step.
My car sat for 2 days this week and was completely dead when I got back. I had the alternator and battery tested and they were both fine. I put everything back and ran a vag-com and it still shows running voltage at 9.7 volts. ABS and traction control lights are on intermittently. It seems to be having trouble starting which leads me to believe it's a bad starter but I don't know how that would drain my battery. The car also has a sunroof drain leak which got water on the monsoon amp. I've tried with and without the amp connected. No difference.
View 24 RepliesRecently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
I have a 2003 Golf GTI VR6. Over probably a year, my rear wiper began working only intermittently. Eventually it stopped working at all. Based on lotsa googling, here's the troubleshooting I've done so far to investigate:
1. Pushed the stalk forward, listened for relay *tick* sound. I didn't hear the tick. Wiper doesn't move.
2. Went outside the car and didn't hear any sounds coming from the wiper motor.
3. Pushed stalk all the way forward, rear wiper washer was activated and works fine. Wiper doesn't move.
4. Checked wiper fuses. No indication of blown fuse.
5. Pulled the relay and inspected. No burn marks or loose wires.
6. Ran voltage through the relay and relay opens and closes without issue.
From what I've read, the fact that the relay appears to work fine in tests but doesn't work in the car suggests either the stalk or a wiring harness failure. I've also read washer fluid can leak in to the motor and cause it to stop working, but that seemed like a less likely cause. What do you all think?
So my jetta is 2001 i believe and idleing like its got major breathing problems, it goes from 700rpms to 1500 in cycles and sometimes dies out all together. I thought it was some kind of vaccum leak and had a few pipes in the engine bay replaced but it didnt fix it. Its also missing a muffler so its really load and annoying, especially when im at inn n out in the drive through lol. Other than that, the car doesn't seem to be running that bad but the check engine light is on as well as the traction light comes on sometimes for no reason.
View 1 RepliesBackground: I brought my R in for service last week because the AC stopped working. I ended up needing the compressor and the fans replaced. I picked my car up and drove it home with no problems. The next day I drove it I started to hear a rather loud buzzing noise that sounded like something was rattling loose from the front passenger side of the car behind the dashboard. It was loud enough to hear over the stereo while driving on the freeway.
Thinking something was wrong with the newly installed fans I brought the car back to the dealership and now they're telling me the fuel pump needs to be replaced. From what I understand, the fuel pump is in the back of the car under the rear seats and attached to the gas tank. I explained to them that I'm a bit confused because the sound is clearly coming from the front of the car but the mechanic there insists what I'm hearing is the fuel pump. Am I crazy or does what they're saying sound reasonable?
I tried looking at a couple YouTube videos that had sound of a VR6 fuel pump gone bad but the sound was nothing like what I was hearing.
My Jetta is working again (I have done head gasket and suspension replacement).
It drives OK but when the engine hits 3.5k RPM... I get a vibration on the whole car, that disappears right away when the RPM increase or decrease a little from ~3500. What could it be? What should I look for? Some engine mount that is getting old?
Weird issue on my MK4 GTI. So it started out just as the rear windshield sprayer would work intermittently. Then the same happened to the front one. Then sometimes the rear windshield wiper would just come on by itself when hitting bumps on the highway. Now sometimes the front windshield wipers won't work, the rear doesn't work at all, and neither sprayers work.
So, where's best to start? I figured maybe the toggle switch is worn out. I haven't looked to see how hard it is to get out/test. I assume there's some linkage or wires I can get to once I remove the trim under the steering wheel to do a simple continuity test and see if the switch is working. Or would relays cause this? I wouldn't think that many relays could fail this quickly while running at normal voltages...
My coolant indicator light keeps returning on my 01 Jetta GLS 2.0
I have searched in the forums and read that its likely a coolant sensor and requires replacing the coolant tank. I am wondering if there are other possible causes as I want to drive it for another 3k before replacing tank (as I will be having timing belt replacement and coolant flush at that time). Previous owner had universal (green) coolant in and it will be replaced with proper coolant when the flush is done.
The indicator comes on within a minute of starting the car. The thermostat seems to operate just fine and car is not overheating. I have topped off with diluted water, it definitely has proper level.
Safe to ignore as long as I watch coolant level and temp?
On a separate issue: I tried to use code reader but it would not connect to my car (had successfully connected at some point prior), I believe it may be because I have an aftermarket radio (the K-wire issue?). If that is true, should it resolve if I swap the stock radio back in? I need to be able to connect to the car eventually when it is time to renew registration (for state emissions control testing).