Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Stop Motor Oil Pressure Low Turn Off Car Started Flashing?
Jun 30, 2014
So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
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I have a 24v vr6 gti, stage 2 C2 motor sports tune, and when i turn the key to the on position a message pops up on the dash that says: STOP OIL PRESS. STOP MOTOR! What this means or why it happens?
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2000 VW GOLF 2.0L, manual, ~190k miles
Driving down the highway my CEL started flashing and the engine power dropped at the same time. I drove two miles to my destination and the idle was very rough and the power was still very low. The codes were P0300, 0301 and 0304.
The coil was replaced about 2 years ago. The plugs have never been replaced. About 2 weeks ago I had a solid CEL with the codes P1255 and P0422... I purchased a new ECT Sensor but did not yet make time to install it.
Could everything be related to the ECT? Or do you think there are multiple issues?
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stop oil pressure light will come on at 1800 to 2000 rmp i just changed the oil to full synthetic now i see the oil light come on at 3000 rpm i changed the oil pump and sending unit and the car sounds good no rattles what could be the problem ?? its been doing this for 2 years now
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I recently installed and oil gauge now I want to disconnect the stop oil pressure warning on my dash.
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As soon as I start the car the windshield wipers start on their own and wont stop. I diagnosed the relay as my fualt and I was partly correct. I put the new relay and it worked. However I still had the rear wiper motor disconnected. Once I plugged rear motor back in, the front windshield wipers started going on their own and won't stop again. So, what should be next? Motor diagnoses? I can't see any visual water damage in the motor when the cover is off.
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I am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
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It's a 2005 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 DOHC. A couple weeks ago I tried to use the wipers and nothing happened - at all. The next day the gauges inside the car went hay wire, started flashing on and off. Turned out the car needed a new battery and alternator. Replaced both and the car has been perfectly fine - except for the wipers. I checked the wiper fuse and it wasn't blown so I pulled the cowl, unplugged the motor, turned the key on, turned the wiper switch to full speed and then tested for voltage at the plug and got almost 12 volts when testing several terminal combinations.
I thought for sure I had it figured out so went ahead and bought a remanufactured wiper motor but nothing happened when I plugged it in. I thought maybe since I didn't mount it it wasn't grounded so went ahead and did that and still nothing. Thinking maybe it was defective I returned it and went to a different auto parts store and bought another one, hooked it up and got the same results. So then I tested all nine relays in the relay control center and they all passed. So now I'm thinking the only thing left to test is the wiper switch. Am I correct?
And also I'd love to bench test the original motor just to verify that it works but don't know which terminals to connect to. I've searched the internet with two different browsers and came up with nothing. The motor in question is a Bosch 05-02-14 41. And then underneath it has 0390 241 7411 12V 058 written on it. The terminals are labeled: 31b, 31, 53 and 53b. And since the OE replacement motor for this car is a Cardone 40-3026, which terminals to use to bench test that one, I could then figure out which terminals to use on the Bosch.
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2006 Prius, 134K miles. All tire pressures perfect but pressure indicator light started flashing about a minute then stays on. Happens each time car starts. There have been no weather temperature fluctuations. Attempted indicator reset by pushing “ON” once without pedal push and then pushing and holding pressure reset button under dash for a minute. Nothing happens. Indicator does not come on or flash when pushing the reset button while in “On” mode. Tires have not been changed or rotated since last year.
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working on a 2000 F-150 (5.4L & 4R70W). the truck was towed to me with the complaint it would not go forward.
I found 6 transmission trouble codes set. I cleared the codes and was able to drive the truck for about 30 miles. It shifted perfectly and had all 4 forward gears, codes did not come back. I parked the truck to check the fluid level (it was full) waited about 15 mins and went to move the truck, As soon as I turned the key and started the engine the CEL came on and the OD light started flashing, the transmission would engage in forward gears but would just chatter when you tried to accelerate.
I checked the codes and found P0743, P0750, P0755, P1747 and P1760 set. I tried clearing the codes again several times and come back instantly when the key is turned on.
I doubt all the electrical solenoids in the transmission have failed at the same time. I suspect the internal connector and/or harness maybe faulty. what is the best course of diagnosis on this? where so I start?
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2000 Ex 5.4 v8
Had 2 coils go bad last week. Got them replaced. Today I am on the turnpike doing 70 and my oil light comes on and oil pressure drops all the way. No engine noises and temp is OK so I coast to the next exit. Get off and go to the gas station in the corner. Turn the truck off...
Wait a few minutes, when I go turn it back on it wont start. The motor wont even turn. It just clicks.
I notice smoke coming from the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter so my brother comes and gets me and we go to the nearest auto part store and buy a new relay.
Replace it and try to start it, same thing. Just clicks and smoke. My brother gets under the truck and taps the starter as I try to start it, no go. I am fearing the engine locked up. But no engine noises, clicks or clacks or anything. Battery is fine as well. Any thoughts on what else I can try?
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2003 SCrew, 5.4, auto, 4x4.... Yesterday my left turn signal started flashing fast; checked and the front was not flashing. Picked up a new bulb, changed it, didn't fix anything.
I've tried:
-tilt wheel up/down in all settings-no change
-checked the wiring at the top of the column; still good and solid.
-swapped the bulbs left to right and vice versa-no change.
-swapped the sockets left to right and vice versa-no change.
Other info:
-the left front is the only one not flashing with hazards on.
-all original equipment, except I removed the stock side mirrors (w/signal) and installed manual trailer towing mirrors, but that was 2 or 3 years ago.
-the dash indicator light for left turn (arrow) does not come on at all.
-last trailer tow was over a month ago and all was good.
I ran out of daylight last night and at work now so I would like know which Fuse, Flasher, Relay, etc., I should check/replace and where to find them on the truck; under the hood (1st or 2nd stack of the fuse blocks); under the dash above the pedals; steering column???
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On my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
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I have a VW golf 2010 with original rims and tires. Suddenly the tire pressure light came on I checked the pressure of each tire and they are fine, but the light keeps flashing for 1 minute and then is on. I checked the manual and it reads malfunction in the system. I took it to the dealer in my country but they they told me they won"t bring this model here so I am out of luck. How to reset this light or what to do.
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Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
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So I get in the car to drive back home, and after i start it wont engage gear, PRNDS flashing, cant get the key out, total drama. Called the dealer. I will tow it back to the origin where it came from. What it is. Shift solenoid failure... But f..ck knows with these things. It only took me 4589785115 times to get the key out...
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Coming home from a 2500km round road trip and back. At the time I was about half way home during the 1300km day, the car is in D and has been all day and it has been about 500km since I last came to a complete stop. I stop at a red light on the highway in a small town on my way through, look at the tach and see the rpms, once its dropped down to first, dip down to about 300 or so, then quickly back up to 550/600 which is its normal idle, then all the sudden it stalls out completely killing the motor. Cycle the key and start it up right away and it drives as usual. his might be the 2nd time this has happened. R32's and DSG.
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Here's my question. Recently my muffler fell off the back of my car and was dragging on the ground. The front bracket had snapped off and so had the pipe right where it comes out of the front of the muffler. I want to replace with the stock oem muffler but i can't afford it right now. My question is can i just take the muffler off for the time being so it wont drag on the ground? Will this harm the engine or be completely absurdly loud? Is this even legal....
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Well I have been working on my build for about 2 1/2 years. Built the motor for the turbo set up that I had on the car and a few other goodies.
Now the motor turns over with no issue and I have spark. So I know my problem lies in the fuel delivery. My pump tested fine and I have fuel at the rail. So my next guess is the injectors. After trying to start the car I pulled 2 spark plugs out and they where dry. So this proved to me there's an issue here.
Before I go and rip my manifold off and start pulling injectors is there anything I could check first? I'm thinking from sitting that have gotten dirty and clogged.
Looking for wire diagram for the injectors on the vr6?
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I have a '01 1.8T Jetta with 132k miles that is driven to work daily. I don't take it about 4-5k rpms and don't drive hard in general. Nonetheless the motor still seems to be very hot after I drive it.
Well I always leave the engine running for at least 2 minutes prior to shutting it down. It's starting to get annoying but I am wondering if it's worth getting a turbo timer to continue practicing what I do (assuming it's even worthwhile).
So, just wondering what all the 1.8T folks do. Do you sit and let it run for a few mins and then shut down or do you recommend a Turbo timer?
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I have a 2001 golf with a 2.0 AVH engine. I recently replaced the coil-pack and was very pleased that the engine was running better, the only problem was the mpg was still kinda low in the 24-5 range when it used to be 29.
I tried to do a compression test but I didn't prepare properly, I thought you left the coil pack plugged in and the fuel fuse. Now I have a CEL that *was* flashing saying cylinder one is misfiring though it has stopped flashing. I drove it 13 miles home and it did improve but its still running rough. Very reminiscent of when my bad coil pack was still in there, a real lack of power.
So I have to ask, what can I do from here? Have I damaged my coil pack or cylinders? Will this likely go away on its own? Is there anything I should do?
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