I'm wondering if the Fram Toughgard filter is the culprit. First time I'm using this brand. I know this car has had noisy lifter before, but it was all gone for a while, and mysteriously came back after the oil change. It's not the fluid level, which is fine. It should be noted that the lifter noise doesn't happen until the engine is warm and has been taken up to highway speeds.
View 1 RepliesOn my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
View 10 Replies05 GTI 1.8t
Neuspeed chipped (yeah, bring the insults, car came with it, peaks 24psi so neener-neener!)
Other than that it's mechanically stock.
Last time I had the oil changed, I drove roughly 30 miles to work the following day. When I went to leave work the car beeped a few times, no lights went off. I pulled over and checked oil, it was a half quart low. Topped it off and didn't have a problem after.
Yesterday I had the oil changed, drove to work today and as I left I got that same beep. This time it looks like it's not low on oil. No lights went off, I pondered for a few minutes and took the streets home. No following light or signs of trouble.
What could be happening? My oil pressure sensor is relatively new, replaced it last year and I checked the connection today. I searched around but keep coming across common oil pressure threads. I'm planning to get an oil pressure gauge, guess I'll get one sooner than later for peace of mind.
My car was running fine and it was due for a new oil change so I decided to do it myself. I changed the oil and oil filter and I started my car after I did this and it ran fine. I shut my car off and a few minutes later when I went to start it again, it cranked over and was sputtering. I tried again and now it won't even sputter. It will just turn over. Also the car is a 03 vw gti vr6 with 126xxx miles on it.
View 24 RepliesMy car is ''remap'' from 1.4 to 1.8 golf iv.. I think that immobilizer don't work,can I change speedometer from 1.8 gti without make encode the new one? Only to take the new speedometer and fit it on my car.. Also how can I understand if my immobilizer works? I have vag com...
View 2 RepliesI just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
View 12 RepliesI have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
So I recently bought my 03 VW Golf TDI, and have it in the shop this morning to get the wheel alignment done, balance my winters, fuel/cabin filter changed, as well as an oil change. I am now wondering whether or not to give them a call to change the transmission oil as well...
But.. the vehicle has alot of km's on it (358K) and I keep reading that it would do more harm then good? Is this true? Doesn't make any sense to me, but the car could shift more smoothly I think if I do it, and I have yet to see any tran fluid change in the previous owners records in quite some time..
So long story short, last week I destroyed my first gear in the tranny. This weekend I did the complete swap and put a used o2j in. 5 speed. 2.0 motor.
Right after the swap, on the first startup I noticed the clutch felt softer. The grip is also a little less than it used to be.
Right before my transmission blew I upgraded from 15" alloys to 17" longbeaches with spacers all around- much heavier. It happened on my first drive with the new rims so I didn't get to feel the car much.
I reused my current slave cylinder. Did not disconnect it from the line while swapping. I did however notice my slave boot had a small little dent in it (super small) but no tears or anything. Also, reinstalling it i pushed it in and compressed the boot and secured it with the bolts - I hope I did this right.
I redid my rear brakes about a month ago, did not disconnect brake lines or bleed the system.
I have already driven about 50km on the new tranny. Today I am getting the tranny service (flush) done because I didn't have the sockets to check it after install. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he might know anything. The brakes also feel a touch less but I'm not sure if this is cause of the 17" wheels.. does the system just need to be bled?
All gears go in smooth - clutch in.
All gears go in smooth with car off.
No grinding of gears when switching or driving.
No reverse grind.
No slipping in any gears.
Just a soft pedal and feels like softer bite. I did the tranny swap in a rush, did not replace fork, TOB or anything. They should all be fine, I'm thinking it's just air but need confirmation. I just want this car to last another year or so..
So I have a 2.0 automatic golf GLS. Its the last of the MK4's but a 2005 model. So this is what's going on. When I drive the car for awhile the transmission (I'm assuming gets hot )& Im at a stop & start from 0 the car struggles to change gears. The rpms go way up into 5k sometimes 6 just to go to second gear, And then so forth. This only happens when I drive around for awhile. My dad just flushed the transmission fluid after my car refused to change gears. It was stuck in a high gear from my assumption & it was always a lot of work for the car to build up speed. What's going on with my tranny? Is it the solenoids? Valve body? TCM? Car is at 104k miles btw
View 8 RepliesAny VCDS instructions to reset?
View 2 RepliesI had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
The other day i started my car after school and about two minutes after the car started the battery light came on. A little bit later, the gauges went to zero but the car was still running, On my way home from school, it did it again twice then the battery light came on and stayed on. I got home and tried bringing the car to autozone and all the lights on the dash went dim and the car slowly died.
View 13 RepliesI'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
View 2 RepliesSo I bought my 03 golf 2.slow about 10 years ago used and it came with a moonroof... not a sunroof. I never really thought about it and just assumed it was a option from the factory but the seals have been leaking lately and I was looking for a replacement seal and could not find anything only sunroof parts. Is this an aftermarket moonroof where they cut a hole in the roof and added this?..I really hope not. Or did someone take the sunroof assembly out and put this in its place.
View 3 RepliesPreviously, I have had no rough starts or other starting issues, and no issues with my battery, which is 4 years old. I left work and had some errands to run--started my car, drove about 1/2 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 1/4 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 2 miles and stopped at a gas station. Started my car again and drove 2.5 miles.
This time, my car started fine, and I began to take off (moving forward--no car in the space in front of me) and after about 5-10 feet my engine died. I haven't been able to start it since. The starter is turning well, but I don't hear anything firing, and giving it gas as I hold the key over does nothing.
Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).
I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
2005 1.8t gti. so my left blinker bulb went out and it was acting normally for a burnt bulb but then my right blinker started to randomly come on and stay on, my blinker arrow on my dash will stay on but very dimly and when i go over bumps it will click on and off and sometimes stay on then shut off when i go over another bump.
View 2 RepliesI have a 02 gti with 1.8t and tiptronic trans. Anyways my gf said she was driving and traction light/battery light came on car started slowing down when she tried to accelerate. Said brakes were stuff to and car shut off..what would cause this. I had a maf code over the weekend i cleared.
View 17 Replies