Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Steering Wheel Power Loss - Unstable At High Speed
May 18, 2015
I have a mk4 TDI. Running 18" 225/40 and coil overs. My car began to have a loose steering wheel and was unstable at high speed so i did alignment and it was bad. when they fixed it next day it broke again. My front wheels end up being too open. If front left is straight than the front right is too much open, like i am turning right. i did alignment again in the shop, they made them straight and it broke again next day. What can cause that my allignment breaks every day? Shop doesn't know.
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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Car: 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
The car is starting to produce a heavy shake in the steering wheel when above 45mph up through highway speeds. The kicker is that the shake only occurs on-center, because turning the wheel just a few degrees off creates a relatively smooth result.
Checked the wheels for balance, tire wear [which is good, no cupping], lower control arm (LCA) bushings, and complete a lock-to-lock steering test on the ground to confirm steering rack mounting bolts are tight. What's the next pieces of hardware I'm needing to verify?
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I have a Nissan pulsar n16 (almera) auto. About 8 months ago I was driving on freeway, had loss of power at high speed and felt like it was going to stall. When I accelerated it jerked a bit and kept losing more power each time I pushed the accelerator. Actually felt like I was braking slightly. There was also a large cloud of smoke that came out. Since then I have kept taking back to mechanic and each time something replaced to fix problem but still occurring as well as oil consumption, previously NEVER used oil. So far I've had replaced:
Fuel pump
Starter motor
Finally motor rebuild a month ago due to to broken piston ring, which was meant to be the cause of all the problems.I am still having the same problems and just noticed again oil was nearly empty. What else it could be?Catalytic converter? Ignition leads?If my motor was rebuilt could it be something else using the oil? Or are these symptoms of a other underlying problem that is causing all these?When my motor was pulled apart I was told was in very good condition apart from broken ring.
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Already did the wheel to left, right and center about five times. Still no power steering.
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I have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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My wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
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If the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
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Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
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I purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
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I got an 04 GLI ... When I'm driving at about 60 mph, and I apply the brakes lightly, i get a vibration in the steering wheel. it doesn't happen under heavy breaking, just when i press the pedal down lightly to slow down, and there is NO pulsation in the pedal at all during any time.
Some history of the car:
Just did pads and rotors 2 weeks ago,
car has spacers, hub centring.. the problem occurs with out the spacers also.
had an alignment a month ago.
had tires balanced 2 months ago
tires are 2 months old.
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I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
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I've been noticing my steering wheel shakes if i normally brake going on the highway at high speed. My friend said that it's probably your brakes and rotors. Get them replaced and resurface and that should fix the problem. Can i get some confirmation before i do this?
1. I just had my tires replace at 55k and bought this car new back in feb 09. it has 62k.
2. also i've been reading up on camries fail water pump. i'm thinking of doing this over the weekend or should i just wait until i notice some leaks?
3. lastly, any major thing i need to be aware of. i've done the normal engine oil and filter change, cabin and engine air filter change, that's about it. i hope these camries are bullet proof like the old school (92-95).
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2004 Silverado...90K miles. That's what I'm feeling. I feel it in the steering wheel as well as in the floor. Mrs. says she doesn't feel it on passenger side.
I haven't been able to pin down any particular speed. I sometimes feel it while accelerating....sometimes only when I take my foot off the gas...sometimes not at all.
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My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
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Due to being low, and taking my splash guards off to put on my skid plate, in heavy rain, my belt I guess gets wet, slips and I lose power steering. I can hear it screech.
I didn't think that would be the case for snow, but sure enough after plowing through my driveway to go to work it was slipping screeching and loss of power.
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My mkiv gti leans a lot to the right whenever I let off the steering wheel. I brought it to a shop and they put it up on a lift and told me that I needed a tie rod flip kit because it's lowered. Long story short, they charged me $70 to look at it for 10 minutes. Do you really need a flip kit for a car lowered on coilovers? I have several friends with lowered cars and none off them have had to do this. I'm thinking it's something else such as a bad shock but I'm no expert.
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