My issues: when I'm on gear 1 for example, on hot days, and only on hot days ( 25 deg.c and more) when I put it on neutral it suppose to go at "home" position ( i think this is how you guys call it, like align with the 3rd gear) But it stays align the the first.
Same with all the gears. It's stays aligned with the gear I just left.
When it gets hot outside and the car warms up (15 mins or so of highway driving), the stick gets extremely hard to move and it doesn't go back to center when it's out of gear. So I could push it all the way left or right without putting it in a gear, and it would stay there, it wouldn't pop back to the center like it should. It becomes really annoying and difficult to drive because it gets so stiff and hard to move, what could be causing the problem? I've already adjusted the shift linkage and that didn't work.
View 3 RepliesToday I had planned on replacing coil No. 5 to rid myself of the rough idling and drive I've been experiencing the past couple weeks. Car is running smooth now, however, I've noticed again that coolant continues to leak at a fast pace on hot summer days.
I've always had a slight leak, about the size of a hockey puck or so if I let it sit over night. But once temps reach in the mid 80s-90s, like today in PA, the leak gets even worse. Pictured below is the amount of coolant that had dropped in about an hour span. I have attached an image and video of where I can see it dripping from. It looks like it may be a hose, but I can't tell if the coolant is just dripping on there initially from somewhere else, and then onto my driveway. I don't have a jack that I can get it high enough to check.
Car specs:
2003 VW GTI VR6 24V 98,000 miles
After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
View 15 RepliesDealer advised the following procedure for parking car:
1. Come to a stop, foot on break
2. Put car into Neutral, make sure Neutral is lit up
3. Then press the Park button.
They said this is better for transmission. Didn't see a mention of it in the manual, and have no problem doing this. Or are you just coming to a stop and then hitting the Park button, skipping the Neutral step?
A little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
My service engine light on my 99 s10 comes on like every other week. Stays on for a couple of days, then shuts off. My truck is running fine, so is it really necessary to take it to my mechanic to get checked out?
View 8 RepliesChecking fuses and relays due to flashing brake light.now the air bag light is on all the time and now the starter won't crank with the key. All dash lights come on as normal , and brand new battery. Good grounds and fuses.
Really frustrating because I have no Viacom or access to anyone who does. I am in elkin nc and closest dealer is 50 miles away!!! Tried clearing the cry by pulling the cables and touching them together then reconnect to battery after 2 minutes.
Pull the key and I can still turn the radio on. Disconnected battery for 2 hours and still no safe mode on radio. Kind of hoping that was why no crank , but no such luck.
Feel resistance going from neutral to 1st sometimes (and 4th to 5th or reverse)?
It doesn't happen all the time, but it doesn't feel very smooth. It feels like something is rubbing against the stick. When I reset to neutral and try it again, its smooth as butter.
Even when the key is off this light is on. The rear defrosters are not getting hot, and when you turn the car on and use the defrosters the light will brighten. It happened to my car while it was sitting in the school parking lot.
The cause of this problem I assume is a short in the wires going from the c pillar to the hatch.
[URL]................
I just put the rubber cover back on them and the light turned off. Insulation on some of the wires was cracked and falling off. I will fix the wires with either electrical tape or new wires depending on the condition when I am able to do further inspection
I recently bought a 2003 F350 super duty dually automatic transmission 6.0 deisel 4x4. The 4x4 is not working. with the hubs in auto when i flip the switch to 4x4 high nothing happens.The same with 4x4 low putting the truck in neutral. I can only find 2 fuses using the owners manual that says anything about 4x4 and both of them check out good. Also the owners manual says when i turn on the key I should see a 4x4 light and a low range light momentarily. Neither of these lights are showing up. I don't hear any clicking or any noise of any kind when trying the 4x4.It acts like an electrical issue but not sure where to start.
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2004 1.8t GLI. I recently developed a problem where the car will idle very poorly at random times, where it goes down to 500, jumps up to a 1000, and continues that and eventually levels out. Also, occasionally while I am driving and put it in neutral to coast, the engine will die. This has also happened at stop signs/red lights. I had it scanned via VCDS, and the only two codes that popped up were running lean, and an n249 code. I already changed the MAF out, changed the alternator. Where to go next.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2001 wolfs-burg 1.8t, has about 220k miles on it, i know, its a lot. Right now, the check engine light has been on for a few months and the idle is very weird. It goes up and down in neutral from 800-1300 rpms and sometimes i smell gas. Also the triangle with an '!' and circle around it yellow light comes on some times now. I heard it could be MAF or a vacuum leak. A mechanic is going to check it out soon...
View 10 RepliesElectrical issue that I have been unable to resolve following other threads on here. Door ajar (to turn off radio and turn on interior lights) not functioning. My son has to lock the driver door from the outside when exiting to turn off radio. Alarm does sound and red light starts flashing indicating that part is functioning. Same thing when entering vehicle, the interior lights do not come on when opening the door. All other window switches and door locks function from driver door panel, except right rear door lock does not, he has to unlock by using the interior handle. Last one but unsure if related is the anti-slip (ASR) dummy light stays on in the instrument cluster, and doesn't change when pushing the button. I have gone through the driver door switch, cleaned/lubed/etc, but no luck. If it's a ground issue, where should I concentrate our efforts?
View 1 RepliesI have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
I have a 2004.5 Jetta GLI 1.8T. 96K miles.
The sound just started a couple of weeks ago and is becoming more prominent. On cold starts (like in the morning or after sitting for a while), the front right of the car makes a repeated clicking/ clunking sound while in neutral. However, the second I apply any gas, the sound goes away. Only when my engine is idling at around 700-800 rpms does it make the sound. After driving the car around for about 10 minutes or so ("warming up"), the sound eventually goes away and comes back on the next cold start.
Yesterday, my ABS light came on and never went away. I have no idea if there's any relation. May be a separate issue. I've tried searching for a diagnosis with no luck. Thoughts on what I might be hearing?
It's been going on for awhile now...shifter hangs up to one side or the other instead of self recentering when put in neutral. I have checked the interior and there is no dirt of grime on the white nylon ball that the shifter floats on and it was also lube with some white lithium spray (liquid wrench). Checked under the hood. All connections are good and solid and free from any obstructions. Trans fluid was changed 10k miles ago. Not sure what else to check.
View 3 Replies so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
Rear wiper stays on regardless of switch position. It runs as if the switch was on - intermittently. No critters chewing, Stops with the fuse pulled. We get lots of snow and I need it, rain-x won't cut it. It has 80k on the clock and everything works perfectly. the wiper homes between runs. Disconnected the battery for 5 mins for fun. Is this switch prone to this kind of failure?
View 1 RepliesSo my turn signal stalk doesn't go back to neutral after a turn.. also, I don't hear the usually " clicking when turning the wheel that you hear when it goes far enough to re-set itself. What controls this action? Its not the clock spring thing commonly referenced to the airbag airbag is it?
View 2 RepliesThe A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.