Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Starter Spinning / Engine Does Not Firing At All
Jul 23, 2015
My wife was driving our Jetta (08 2.0T DSG) this afternoon when it cut off on her. She eased off onto the side of the road and tried to refire, but the starter was just spinning. I popped the hood and the oil was extremely low, so I thought that might be the issue. I put in a quart of oil and everything looked good...tried to start the car, and it's not firing at all. I disconnected the battery hoping that resetting the car would work, but the car just wouldn't turn over or fire...it's like the starter is spinning itself and everything else connected to the belt, but not the motor. I had to leave it about 30 miles away, but plan on going back out in the morning to mess around with it.
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I recently attempted to change out the clutch on my bug for the first time. All went well right up until I tried to start it. The starter kicks over, all the electrical works, but for some reason she's not firing. Upon removing the spark plug i found out there is no spark. The plug cables and plugs themselves are brand new, so I'm guessing that's not it.
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I replaced some TYC OEM headlights on my car with stock OEM Hella headlights and cleaned up the lenses really nice.
Once installed, I went to adjust the headlights to find out that the passenger outer adjustment just spins.
This is the one in the photo:
I am not too sure if I can fix this. The little wheel doesn't seem like it can be removed and it has some back and forth play on it.
Need to successfully repaired headlight adjustment?
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Upon putting on my winter wheel i was checking if the bolts were too long and my rear passenger side wheel wasn't spinning. I took the wheel off and checked the rotor and it took a lot of force to spin because the caliper didn't go back. I took the brake fluid line out hoping it would decompress the caliper and it did not, and brake fluid leaked out a tiny bit. This leads me to believe that my caliper is bad. Just want to make sure before I order another one
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I got in my car this morning. When I went to crank it, the starter just started spinning. It kept spinning while the key was on. It never kicked in and engaged. What the fix will be? How do you remove the starter?
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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My 09 LS w/ 65k on it wont start. last night i drove the car around to several places, and on my last stop of the day i couldnt get the car to start. finally after several tries, it fired right up. but today, no such luck.
All the lights come on (and I have charged my batery with a tender to be sure its not the battery), the steering wheel moves in to position, and I either get a click, or a buzzing sound.
Sounds like starter, any other opinions?
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My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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So I have the well known starter grinding noise since I bought the car six months ago. Is there really any danger to the flywheel or the starter itself not fixing this? I don't mean from a purist point of view, of course it's not good. I don't really care about the noise. Does it maybe 1 out of 3 starts in the cold. Are things really getting chewed up, or it's really no big deal.
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I've bought new starter cleaned starter contacts battery contacts jumped it bypassed the ignition and relay but taking a wire and touching the positive to the signal wire..used jumper cables as a direct ground to to the starter the torque converter spins so it's not seased...I don't understand what could possibly be stopping this thing...it's just one click like the starter is jumping out but not enough power to turn... 2002 Jetta 1.8t auto
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Car doesn't seem to want to start when warm.
1.8T AWD, 02J swap, no clutch switch (I can start without pressing the clutch).
Cold start, cranks and starts on a dime, after the car warms up and I've turned off the car, say went for a quick grocery run, the car won't start afterwards.
No cranking, nothing. Fuel pump primes, then not a sound. Everything on the dash lights up just fine. No starter motor noise, no clicking.... nada...
Fairly new starter motor pulled from a junkyard donor. Can't think of anything else.
Last time I got stranded in a parking lot, I gave it a few whacks with a tire iron and the car started just fine. Could it be a bad solenoid?
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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So I have an oil leak I can't figure out. 2001 jetta vr6 5spd. The bottom of the car is covered with oil. It appears to be leaking above the transmission. It will consistently drip at idle. Oil sits on top of transmission and then Leaks down over the starter. It doesn't have any coolant leaks. Is there anything anything in that area that could leak oil that bad?
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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My car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
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1999.5 MK4 Jetta...
So I mentioned in a previous post that my dome light grounded out and melted the wiring down the A-pillar and into the larger harness. I cut the wire out and strangely am no longer burning up fuse #14 (interior lights, power windows, etc.) but continue to burn fuse #6 (central locking system). Probably the wires melted to the door wires and are grounding out.
Obviously I have to do a bigger fix to get everything re-wired (or just a whole new harness). But really, it's just the alarm that is keeping the car from being mobile, as the alarm is somehow cutting power to the starter (this happened to me before when fuse #14 blew - replace the fuse and boom, you have power to your starter again).
I have searched other forum posts fairly exhaustively with no luck - how to bypass the alarm cutting power to the starter? I know there is a fairly easy way to jump the alarm module connection on the MK3s, but can't figure it out on the same module on the MK4s. Again this is pre-immobilizer.
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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I have a 1998 Silverado C1500 with a 5.0L V8. Since last Sunday, I've had two occasions (both first start of the day) where the engine will fire but not run. It turns over, sounds like it's started but immediately dies.
Possibilities???
1) The fuel pump does engage but I lifted the breather off and can't smell or feel any gas in the throttle body. Maybe fuel pressure? It's not all the time though.
2) I checked all relative relays and fuses in the engine compartment...they appear good.
3) After pulling and reinserting the fuses, I filled the bowl up with gas manually and it eventually started..after 15-20 minutes of off-and-on attempts. It doesn't die after it starts and then restarts just fine for a couple of days.
4) I filled up the tank last Saturday and did not have this problem prior to then..could it be bad gas? I have not used any injector cleaner or additive yet.
What could this be????
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I was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
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