Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Start But Shut Off Immediately - ABS And ESP Lights Are On
Dec 17, 2015
My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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If I have the switch set for the lights to turn on when I open the doors, they don't turn off when the doors are shut they just stay on all of the time. Also, sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes they do. My 12v outlet doesn't work either but I am guessing it's the fuse..
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Experienced this thumping noise immediately following shut down?
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I have a 2013 Prius Three. If I drive somewhere (engine completely warm) and stop, like at a store, come back 5-10 mins later, hit the power button, sometimes the ICE will start and immediately shut off, like within 1 second. It can't be the warm up cycle as the ICE is at normal operating temperature. I guess it is not a issue, as one of the 20 computers is doing this and there are no lights(like cel).
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My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
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I have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
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I got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
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Preliminary information: the vehicle is a 2003 jetta (gli), My drivers door ajar switch is broken and the ccm recognizes it as closed at all times (open circuit), also I was hit in the rear at about 40mph by an f-250 a week after I bought the car and I repaired the damage myself (I am not a body tech). I replaced all electrical components in the trunk as they were all destroyed as well as the trunk lid which has never quite closed the same.
.Key Fob serves no function, (replaced the battery as troubleshooting.)
.If I lock the doors VIA drivers door, passenger door or by key in door, the doors will lock and then immediately unlock.
.It seems to think a door is open even though they are all closed and the overhead lights don't come on like they would if a door was open.
.The door ajar light was on when it first started and the light burnt out after less than an hour in (coincidence? or short? I don't know what circuit to start on).
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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Previously, I have had no rough starts or other starting issues, and no issues with my battery, which is 4 years old. I left work and had some errands to run--started my car, drove about 1/2 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 1/4 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 2 miles and stopped at a gas station. Started my car again and drove 2.5 miles.
This time, my car started fine, and I began to take off (moving forward--no car in the space in front of me) and after about 5-10 feet my engine died. I haven't been able to start it since. The starter is turning well, but I don't hear anything firing, and giving it gas as I hold the key over does nothing.
Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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2003 Jetta TDI GLI , fuse number 32 (30 amp fuse) keeps blowing immediately after I replace it. I can't start my car because of it. I do have a shorting head light and the glow plug indicator flashes with the check engine light on. This doesn't happen all the time. When it does happen, sometimes the accelerator will not work and instead of idling at ~900 rpm it idles at ~1100 rpm. I usually just restart my car and then it works again. Not sure how these issues are related but I can't start my car because of this blowing fuse.
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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It's a 2012 Corolla. I disconnected the battery and the 2 grounds where the fender mounts in the front. I did this to do some body repairs. When I reconnected everything, the car started, but immediately shut off. What is wrong? Is it a computer issue where it needs to relearn?
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Last night I noticed when I got out of the car my drivers side headlight was off while my passenger side light stayed on for about 20 more seconds.
At first I thought I just needed a new bulb, but tonight I saw both headlights are working when the car is on or when I turn the headlights on manually, but when I shut the car off the drivers side goes off immediately and the passenger side turns off in about 20 seconds.
I really like my auto-off after a little bit instead of it turning off immediately.
I haven't changed anything recently. Other than that I can't see any other problems. I swapped out my 08 headlights for 2014 headlights about a year ago and haven't had any problems.
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I have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.
The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days.
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Car shut off while driving. Saw it wasn't getting fuel. Replaced fuel pump. Got fuel. It will crank. Still won't start. Replaced crankshaft position sensor. Still no luck. No battery. No luck. Timing belt is perfectly fine. I checked the ecm relay and it seems to be working. It won't get a spark. It will try to crank but will not get a spark in any of the cylinders..
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My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
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Got a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
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I just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.
I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.
I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark. I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.
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