Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Stalled While Driving, Restarts After Many Cranks Later With EPC On
Jul 22, 2015
Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
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I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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My car has 203K Miles on it and today when I left for work, it started up after a few more cranks than normal, sputtered a bit and then stalled. I then went to start it again and it would only crank. The fuel was low, but not empty. Normally, the car will have a hard time starting like that when the fuel is low. It is getting colder and those issue are normally amplified. I will list my recent issues with the car below:
- Speedometer jumps all over the place most of the time. Only under throttle does it fixate on the correct speed.
- Check engine light came on a couple of months ago and it was gas cap related. Also related to the fuel tank charcoal filter. After a couple of full tank fill-ups, it went away.
Now, I checked all of the fuses and belts. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay and smelled it and shook it. The one for AC next to it was the same one, so I put it in place of the fuel pump and went to start the car. It had very little power to crank suddenly. So I went back out and placed the relays back in their respective spots. Then I tried to start the car and it cranked even slower until the battery died it seems and the car now has fast clicks when trying to crank.
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Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
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About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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So I am not getting spark. Changed crank sensor and cam sensor still nuthing. I am getting no power to fuse 28 and 34. Also I am getting voltage on coil harness on pins 1 and 2 getting about 11.8 and on 2 and 4 getting 1.2. I am starting to think bad ecu?
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My friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
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2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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To start I was driving home the other night, car just stalled out and would not start back up, at all. Just cranks over and over. Things I have checked
- I am getting a spark from the plugs
- Fuel pump primes when key is turned on
- Fuel comes out of lines, even more so when key is switched over so pressure should be ok, I have not checked exact pressure due to not having a gauge.
- I have checked all relays under the steering wheel (just visual) some had brownish on the connectors and I cleaned all that off.
- All fuses are good and not blown (voltage meter also showed power coming to a few key fuses I checked.
I am down to a few things that I have read could be possible causes
- Camshaft Position Sensor
- Crankshaft Position Sensor
- Not sure what else to really check
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So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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In hot weather, after hard driving for an hour or more, usually (but not always) with a/c running, the engine on my 1998 Almera (a/k/a N15 or Pulsar) stops. The idiot lights come on and if the radio or CD player was on, it shuts off. I can immediately shift to neutral, turn the key, and the engine restarts almost instantaneously, with no difficulty. (I've gotten quite good at this, and can restart the car within a couple seconds, even while I'm coasting as a result of the original engine shutoff.)No matter how hard I drive the car, the problem happens ONLY in hot weather. I've had the beast worked on by competent Nissan mechanics, but no one has been able to figure out the cause.
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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Recently my 01 Jetta 1.8T has started to not start like it should. Say every 4th or 5th start it cranks and cranks, I see the tach eventually flick a couple of times and then it finally fires up. It's also stalled while I'm driving, say when I stop at a light but will usually start up again ok.
After the not so good start I get the impression the car is kind of surging while driving - like a fuel supply issue although maybe the fuel pump has nothing to do with supply after starting?
So anyway my thought is perhaps fuel pump issue? I decided to try and search for my issue or fuel pump issues but it talks about things that happen when you open the drivers door which in my case isn't working properly (i.e., I believe it is a DLM as my windows sometimes all go down and I don't get any chime or door light when the door opens).
So just wondering if based on what I'm experiencing if fuel pump sounds likely and perhaps what further tests I should run. My battery is new and the engine does crank pretty good if that eliminate it. I guess I should be thinking fuel filter perhaps also.
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My 01 Jetta 2.0 started having issues a few days ago. The engine would crank, but wouldn't start. Wait a few minutes and it would start right up. I go to start it the next day and it would crank, but not start at all. I pulled the P0322 code and replaced the crankshaft sensor along with a new fuel pump, and spark plugs just to be safe.
Next, I checked for fuel and spark, which I have both. The car still won't start and seems to lose a charge on the battery pretty quick. At this point, there are no codes showing up. Could the engine be flooded from trying to start it so much?
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I'm having a situation here. Yesterday I decided to clean the MAF in my 01 VW Jetta 2.0, so without disconnecting the battery I unplugged and took the MAF sensor out and sprayed it using "CRC MAF sensor cleaner", let it dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then re installed it. When I tried to start the car, I opened the ignition (ON position) and didn't hear the pump priming, still tried to start the car, it when on for about 2 seconds at rough-800rpm idle then rpms dropped and car stopped running. Then, I tried to started it again a couple of times more and I still don't hear the fuel pump priming and the car will crank but not start.
Did I ruin/blew the fuel pump or something in the system? I don't understand what could have possibly gone wrong. I already tried searching for it but did't find the exact same situation and though details might be important.
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