Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Stalled Out On The Highway / Hole Busted In Oil Pan
Jul 29, 2014
I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
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I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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Yesterday, for the first time ever, car had to be towed to the dealership for some major problem. My dad was driving to work with his car , a 2003 GLS V6, and suddenly it stalled in the middle of the road. Turns out it was the fuel pump that caused it. Never mind the expenses which is ridiculously high and can't do anything about it (yes, i'm loyal to my dealer). His car had 129399kms on it plus a km to the dealer and mine had 70136km for a 2002 GLS V6.
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I have a 99 vw jetta the coolant outlet flange nipple became brittle and broke...its the smaller 1/2 size hose not the two larger ones. Not sure how much coolant actually flows thru there and want to know if i can drive it a couple miles to a shop without it hurting the engine. I believe it's bone dry but don't know and i didnt want to add water since it's 32 degrees COLD. Don't want the water to freeze. The part comes in this weekend ...how far can i drive , with water no coolant....(vw coolant is expensive).
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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My Prius just stalled out on highway from cruise control @ 65 mph, so I coasted luckily off an exit, and before coming to complete stop the whole dash went black with exception of power steering failure warning light. I had it towed, at my cost of $95, to dealer for troubleshooting. They found that the fuel sensing system/indicator had worn, and cost for repair is $422+, as not under any warranty or recall. Fuel sense indicator worn out @ 105,145 miles...
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
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I need the part number for wiper rack. Stud busted on the passenger wiper when doing the ecu.
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I was on highway and suddenly my 06 highlander hybride stalled and i saw the msg as "Hybride failed"and "VCF failed, I towed my car to dealer and staying in Motel, why this happen and how should I deal with Toyota, I am stuck on the road 400 miles away from home.
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If i speed onto the highway from 3rd gear it turns on ASR light and wont turn off until i turn car off. I just replaced MAF month or so ago with a cheap ebay one. If that has anything to do with it. 2003 MkIV 1.8T ...
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Have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L BEV auto..has 124,800 miles on it...when cruising on the highway the car seems to momentarily lose power like as if i let off the gas. Car has the original everything for the most part. Did the water pump and timing belt 2k miles ago. Maybe alternator? fuel delivery?
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so i had a huge coolant leak, changed the coolant flange, filled and ran while clearing air out of the system plus a 20 minute drive = NO leaks
once it hit the highway, coolant gone, smoke everywhere...
no visible leaks
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Driving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
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My 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T 5-Speed is over heating
Car is still over heating after replacing the following:
- Head gasket
- Coolant fan module
- Geba Metal Prop Water pump
- Full timing belt kit
- coolant fan switch in Radiator
- Bleed the system of all air blow hot air
So Driving the car around town is ok, doesn't over heat, but as soon as I take it on a highway it over heats. I drove it 50 kms out of the city and it over heated, let it cool down and added water. got it back home. Oil light flashed on as I pulled into driveway, turned it off right away. no external oil leaks. Checked coolant, Oil in coolant. also the coolant was boiling, the level was raising up and lowering. I have been reading the forums for a few hours and the oil in the coolant sounds like the oil cooler gasket. Ok so the fans are running and it still over heats. The old metal propeller water pump was very hard to turn so I replaced it with a Geba Metal water pump. no leaks at water pump. Could it be possible that the Oil cooler was causing air to leak into the cooling system causing the coolant to boil? And then when the oil cooler "o-ring" finally failed it dumped oil into the coolant?
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Recently bought a used 2002 Camry LE. Ran fine the first couple days I had it, however the first day I tried driving to work in the morning(how poetic), it stalled and died in the middle of the highway when I slowed down.
The first tips I had were to clean the throttle body and/or clean the mass airflow sensor. I did both of these things and the car will actually drive and not stall when stopping now, but the idle is horrendously low still. On a cold start the idle will sit at about 1000-1100 RPM. However, when it's been on long enough to be warm/hot the idle will drop to about 300-400(ish) when sitting in park, and about 600 when in drive sitting at a stop. Took it to a shop and they had no idea why it's so low and suggested I start by replacing the mass airflow sensor to see if the sensor is just going bad.
Planning on replacing the sensor regardless as soon as possible but just gathering any information I can.
When I'm accelerating slowly, my gas pedal vibrates when the car is about to shift up. Just a very subtle vibration but noticeable by anyone driving it. Happens just a second or two before it shifts up then goes away after the shift, then again when it shifts up, etc. It doesn't happen if I'm accelerating quickly though. Say when I'm going to get on the highway. Only when it's a slower speed up like in town between traffic lights or something. I was told this could possibly be a transmission issue? Is there anyway to check for sure or should I just have a transmission shop look at it?
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1.5L with automatic and 90K miles. In December going 60 mph on the highway at steady speed the car stalled, would not restart, towed home, tried new fuel pump relay, made no difference, put old relay in and it started, ran great for 6 months and now after filling up the tank, I hit a bump and went around a corner and it stalled again, same scenario, towed home and it started the next day. Been running fine since. Ground on fuel pump/ bad gas? another relay in the fuel pump circuit?
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